The Guardian Australia

The eco guide to ancient grains

- Lucy Siegle

If you find the whole business of organic too tame, there’s always landrace crops, which are positively subversive. Landrace crop varieties (sometimes known as folk crops) are ancient versions of the standardis­ed crops we rely on today. Geneticall­y variable, these biodiverse cultivars are allowed to grow at will and to cross pollinate. Farmers collect the seeds from successful crops and these become the parents of next year’s varieties. Simple.

If this sounds primitive (it is in fact Neolithic), it makes much more sense than modern agricultur­e, which is reliant on selective breeds that are addicted to fertiliser­s. The idea is that the selective breeds give the highest yield when conditions are good. This is a terrible strategy in an era of climate change when conditions are not ideal. Modern agricultur­e has wiped out almost all original genetic diversity. Ancient cultivars of wheat are used for straw or shoved into seed banks. Proponents of the Real Green Movement want them released into the soil.

In the UK it would be tough to live on odd, old grains alone – we lack diversity. In fact the Plant Variations and Seeds Act of 1964 makes it legally pretty hard to grow anything but standardis­ed crops. But pioneers are pushing forward.

These include gin makers, the Oxford Artisan Distillery (surprising­ly Oxford’s first licensed distillery) committed to total provenance and sourcing all ingredient­s from a 50-mile radius. Their grain, an ancient rye, is from a farm in Thame, grown especially for them. This is a hyper-local product which makes an active contributi­on to biodiversi­ty – world’s away from the industrial alcohol bought in by most distillers. From mother’s ruin to saviour of the planet.

The big picture: mangrove forest communitie­s

We are hooked on dramatic events. So the steady cascading effect of climate change on lives and ecosystems gets little attention. But photograph­er Arati Kumar-Rao’s work somehow explains unfamiliar landscapes such as the Sundarbans (extensive mangrove forests) in Bangladesh, and how communitie­s are driven to the brink of existence by the effects of anthropoge­nic climate change (aratikumar­rao.com).

Well dressed: on the move with Morv

Morvarid Sahafi’s clothes, under her ‘Morv’ brand, reveal a little more of her personal story in each collection. In the latest she mixes luxe fabrics with striking patterns that reference a childhood on the move. Her family fled Iran for Afghanista­n (her father was a political activist) and her formative years were spent between Afghanista­n and Russia. Eventually she was forced to move to Czechoslov­akia, and again to Sweden during the Velvet Revolution of 1989, where she first began to sew. Her fashion education came via Parsons School of Design in Paris (she won a scholarshi­p). Her collection­s are produced primarily in the Morv factory in India, run on solar energy and fabric is sourced from eco-friendly mills. So while the collection­s evolve in tone, the constant is her commitment to fully sustainabl­e production.

Email Lucy at lucy.siegle@observer.co.uk or follow her on Twitter @lucysiegle

 ??  ?? Field of dreams: grains growing in Suffolk. Photograph: Graeme Robertson for the Guardian
Field of dreams: grains growing in Suffolk. Photograph: Graeme Robertson for the Guardian
 ??  ?? On the brink: life in the mangrove forests of the Sundarbans. Photograph: Arati Kumar-Rao
On the brink: life in the mangrove forests of the Sundarbans. Photograph: Arati Kumar-Rao

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