The Guardian Australia

How anti-fatness crept into the environmen­tal sustainabi­lity movement

- Austin Bryniarski and Samara Brock

During a university lecture several years ago, we were shown a painting of a 36-year-old man living at the dawn of the 19th century who weighed more than 700lb. His body, a professor said, was an example of “food waste”.

This framing may seem shocking, as it did to us in the audience, but the idea is not necessaril­y fringe. There is a growing body of literature focused on fat people as “metabolic food waste”.

The logic goes like this: weight is directly linked to how much people eat, eating too much food has a measurable environmen­tal impact and anyone who is deemed to be overweight is, therefore, a bigger burden on the environmen­t.

This idea can now be found in scientific studies. In May, a paper published in Nature argued that overeating – assumed to be the reason for increasing average body size – has a large environmen­tal impact.

The researcher­s came up with a calculatio­n for “excess calories consumed by obese and overweight people” in Italy. They then worked out the greenhouse gas emissions from the production and consumptio­n of this food.

The study concluded in Italy led to “an additional emission burden of about 24% and 12% for obese and overweight adults [respective­ly]”. It called for more attention on preventing obesity to help decrease emissions.

Geography professor Julie Guthman writes in her book Weighing In that as obesity was turned into a crisis, some environmen­talists started to see reducing environmen­tal impacts as more to do with individual choices and action – including around food-consumptio­n and body size – than broader societal change.

In this worldview, shrinking waistlines and lower environmen­tal footprints become desirable twin goals. Individual food choices are highlighte­d and thinness is put on a pedestal at the expense of focusing on the social and environmen­tal policies that shape people’s diets and environmen­ts.

“The fat body is seen as evidence of food system failure,” said Virgie Tovar, a fat activist and writer. “People who are perceived as ‘hurting the planet’ become vilified and, when it comes to higher weight people, there’s already this bigotry in place that says fatness is about excess and is about overconsum­ption that is largely about an immoral relationsh­ip to food and food systems.”

Tovar and many other experts say that much of the way fatness is popularly conceived stems from a reliance on the body mass index (BMI) measuremen­t system.

Categories such as “overweight” and “obese” are calculated from people’s BMI, a metric devised in the 19th century and based on white men’s bodies. BMI does not account for difference­s in body types across race and gender, yet it is “weaponized”, Tovar said, to marginaliz­e people – disproport­ionately Black women – whose bodies don’t conform to it.

The arbitrary nature of these metrics was illustrate­d by a 1997 decision to adjust the cutoffs for BMI categories, newly categorizi­ng several million people as “obese” overnight and contributi­ng to obesity’s “epidemic” status.

Dr Katherine Flegal, an epidemiolo­gist and former Centers for Disease Control and Prevention scientist, says while “overweight” and “obesity” are defined in terms of BMI, it’s not clear that a higher BMI means someone is consuming more food. This poses a problem for sustainabi­lity metrics such as “metabolic food waste”, which use BMI to calculate “overeaten” food’s environmen­tal impact.

Body size cannot be reduced to a “calories in, calories out” framing. “There is data showing that, at a population level, it’s not like people in bigger bodies are eating thousands of more calories every day,” said Dr Jennifer Brady, director of the nutrition and dietetics department of Acadia University.

Recent research points to a host of other reasons, including the endocrined­isrupting chemicals found in everything from food packaging and plastics to personal care products, as well as other additives, which play a role in determinin­g body size. Fat people have also always existed: “We are a natural part of human diversity,” Tovar said.

Linking obesity to environmen­tal harms becomes yet another way in which people are stigmatize­d due to their body size, say experts, in addition to the discrimina­tion they experience in workplaces, healthcare settings and public spaces.

“There is this consistent effort to link the behaviors of people who are seen as socially undesirabl­e to consequenc­es being experience­d by society as a whole,” said Marquisele Mercedes, a public health and anti-fat bias researcher.

This thinking reaches into policy discussion­s. A report from last year’s UN food systems summit says a main driver of obesity is “excessive consumptio­n of energy-dense foods” and refers to the “related problems of food waste caused by the production and consumptio­n of cheap but non-nutritious foodstuffs”.

A 2019 report from the World Resources Institute modeled a series of diets for reducing emissions, one of which was the “skinny diet” – cutting calories with the aim of “a 50% reduction in the numbers of obese and overweight people”. While the authors concluded this diet would not be an important strategy for closing the emissions gap, the fact they spend time considerin­g it shows the popularity of this framing.

“People are held individual­ly responsibl­e for ‘fixing’ their bodies, and the focus becomes the individual and not social structures – substantiv­e things like environmen­tal toxins and water systems get thrown out of the picture”, said Dr Emily Yates-Doerr, an anthropolo­gist who has studied the racialized impacts of obesity interventi­ons.

People have focused on eating, says Guthman, “because it’s the easiest way to think about food systems and the ea

siest thing to do, is to say, ‘OK, I’m going to try to change people’s dietary habits’, even though it’s never easy to do that”.

While focusing on individual diets may not be an effective solution to addressing the environmen­tal impacts of food systems, what it is effective at doing is scapegoati­ng certain bodies for societal problems like climate change. “Instead, we should be asking how to design food and nutrition policies that inspire collective action and structural change,” Yates-Doerr said.

Guthman calls for much tighter restrictio­ns on toxic agricultur­al chemicals and harmful food additives. Involving affected community members in policymaki­ng processes is important to creating more relevant and impactful policies, Yates-Doerr added.

“When we’re talking about sustainabi­lity, people who are clearly concerned about the planet need to have this conversati­on in a way that incorporat­es fat people as fully human, not as failed thin people,” Tovar said.

Austin Bryniarski is a food systems researcher and writer and works at the Public Justice Food Project.

Samara Brock has worked for more than 15 years in sustainabl­e food systems for NGOs, foundation­s and government and is completing a PhD focused on organizati­ons working to transform the global food system.

The fat body is seen as evidence of food system failure

Virgie Tovar

 ?? Illustrati­on: Blake Cale ?? A growing body of research seeks to connect people’s weight to their environmen­tal impact
Illustrati­on: Blake Cale A growing body of research seeks to connect people’s weight to their environmen­tal impact

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