PATTERN NOTES
TO WORK BACK DART INCREASES
(RS): Work to 2 sts before mrk (including any side increase), M1, P1, K1, slm, K1, P1, M1, K to 2 sts before next mrk, M1, P1, K1, slm, K1, P1, M1, work to end (including any side increase). When working short rows, pick up and work all wraps with wrapped sts as you pass them.
BACK
Using 4mm straight needles , cast on 110 ( 114: 120: 126: 132: 138: 146: 158: 170: 176) sts. Row 1 (RS): K35 ( 36: 38: 40: 42: 44: 47: 51: 55: 57), P1, K1, pm, K1, P1, K32 ( 34: 36: 38: 40: 42: 44: 48: 52: 54), P1, K1, pm, K1, P1, K to end. Row 2 (WS): P to 2 sts before nd mrk, K1, P1, slm, P1, K1, P to 2 sts before mrk, K1, P1, slm, P1, K1, P to end. Rep last 2 rows 5 more times. Place removable mrks in each end of last row to mark start of side seams from side slits. Dec row (RS): *K to 4 sts before mrk, K2tog, P1, K1, slm, K1, P1, SSK; rep from * once more, K to end. 4 sts dec’d. Cont in patt, rep Dec row every foll 8th row 5 times more. Place removable mrks in each end of last row worked. 86 ( 90: 96: 102: 108: 114: 122: 134: 146: 152) sts. Work 3 rows even in patt.
SHAPE BUST
Note: Read ahead. Increases will be worked at mrks for darts as well as at sides (for Sizes 8-22). Increase 1 st each side of back dart mrks (see Pattern Notes) on following row, then every foll 14th ( 14th: 12th: 12th: 10th: 10th: 10th: 10th: 10th: 10th) row once, then every foll 16th row twice more; AT THE SAME TIME, for Sizes 8-22 only, inc 1 st at each end of row on foll 3rd ( 3rd: 3rd: 3rd: 3rd: 3rd: 3rd: 7th:-:-) row, then every foll 8th ( 8th: 8th: 8th: 8th: 8th: 8th: 8th: 12th:-:-) row 5 ( 5:5: 5: 5: 5: 5: 5: 3:-:-) times more, working all inc sts into st st. 110 ( 114: 120: 126: 132: 138: 146: 154: 158: 164) sts after all shaping has been worked. After all bust shaping has been completed, work 9 ( 9: 11: 11: 13: 13: 13: 13: 13: 13) rows in st st (no longer working rib), removing mrks.
SHAPE ARMHOLES
Cont in st st, cast off 7 ( 7:8: 8: 9: 9: 10: 11: 11: 12) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 96 ( 100: 104: 110: 114: 120: 126: 132: 136: 140) sts. Dec 1 st at each end of every row 9 ( 9:9: 9: 11: 11: 13: 15: 17: 19) times, then every foll RS row 4 ( 5:5: 6: 5: 6: 6: 6: 5: 5) times more. 70 ( 72: 76: 80: 82: 86: 88: 90: 92: 92) sts. Work even in st st for 19 ( 19: 21: 21: 23: 21: 21: 19: 21: 21) rows. Inc 1 st at each end of next row, then every foll 6th row 3 times more. 78 ( 80: 84: 88: 90: 94: 96: 98: 100: 100) sts. Work even in st st for 4 rows. Next row (WS): P24 ( 24: 26: 26: 26: 27: 27: 28: 28: 28) sts, cast off 30 ( 32: 32: 36: 38: 40: 42: 42: 44: 44) sts, P to end.
SHAPE RIGHT SHOULDER
Row 1 (RS): Cast off 7 ( 7:8: 8: 8: 8: 8: 9: 9: 9) sts, K to 3 sts before cast off, SSK, K1, turn. Cont on these 16 ( 16: 17: 17: 17: 18: 18: 18: 18: 18) sts only (place rem sts of row on holder, if desired). Row 2: P1, P2tog tbl, P to end. 15 ( 15: 16: 16: 16: 17: 17: 17: 17: 17) sts. Row 3: Cast off 7 ( 7:8: 8: 8: 8: 8: 8: 8: 8) sts,
K to last 3 sts, SSK, K1, turn. 7 ( 7:7: 7: 7: 8: 8: 8: 8: 8) sts. Row 4: P to end. Row 5: Cast off rem 7 ( 7:7: 7: 7: 8: 8: 8: 8: 8) sts.
SHAPE LEFT SHOULDER
With RS facing, join yarn to 24 ( 24: 26: 26: 26: 27: 27: 28: 28: 28) rem sts and work as for right shoulder, reversing shapings.
LEFT FRONT
Using 4mm straight needles, cast on 58 ( 60: 63: 66: 69: 72: 76: 82: 88: 91) sts. Row 1 (RS): K30 ( 31: 33: 35: 36: 38: 40: 44: 47: 49), P1, K1, pm for dart, K1, P1, K to end. Row 2 (WS): P to 2 sts before mrk, K1, P1, slm, P1, K1, P to end. Rep last 2 rows 5 times more, slipping mrk. Place removable mrks at end of last row worked (side edge) for start of side seam from side slit. Dec row (RS): K to 4 sts before mrk, K2tog, P1, K1, slm, K1, P1, SSK, K to end. 2 sts dec’d. Place removable mrk at end of last row worked. Cont in patt, rep dec row every foll 8th row 5 times more. Place mrk at end of last row worked for first button placement. 46 ( 48: 51: 54: 57: 60: 64: 70: 76: 79) sts in total; 26 ( 27: 29: 31: 32: 34: 36: 40: 43: 45) from side edge to mrk and 20 ( 21: 22: 23: 25: 26: 28: 30: 33: 34) from mrk to centre front. **Work even in patt for 13 ( 13: 11: 11: 9:9: 9: 5: 5: 5) rows. Inc row (RS): K to 2 sts before mrk, M1, P1, K1, slm, K1, P1, M1, K to end. Cont in patt, rep Inc row every foll 6th ( 6th: 6th: 6th: 6th: 6th: 6th: 9th: 17th: 17th) row 5 ( 5:5: 5: 5: 5: 5: 4: 2: 2) times more, working inc sts into st st. 58 ( 60: 63: 66: 69: 72: 76: 80: 82: 85) sts; 32 ( 33: 35: 37: 38: 40: 42: 45: 46: 48) from side seam to mrk and 26 ( 27: 28: 29: 31: 32: 34: 35: 36: 37) from mrk to centre front. Work 5 rows even in st st (no longer working rib).***
SHORT ROW BUST
Working all sts in st st and starting with a RS row, work short rows as foll: Short row 1: Patt to end. Short row 2: Patt to mrk, patt 26 ( 26: 28: 29: 30: 32: 33: 36: 36: 38), w&t. Short rows 3, 5, 7 and 9: Patt to end. Short row 4: Patt to mrk, patt 12 ( 12: 14: 14: 14: 16: 16: 18: 18: 18), w&t. Short row 6: Patt to mrk, slm, w&t. Short row 8: Patt to mrk, patt 6 ( 6: 7: 7:7: 8: 8: 9: 9: 9), w&t. Short row 10: Patt to mrk, slm, patt 19 ( 19: 21: 21: 22: 24: 24: 27: 27: 28), w&t. Short row 11: Patt to end, removing mrk. Work 9 ( 9: 11: 11: 13: 13: 13: 11: 13: 13) whole rows in st st, picking up remaining wraps and working them with wrapped sts on first row, and ending after a WS row. Place removable mrk at beg (neck edge) of last row worked. Front matches length of back from side slit to armhole. Place pins or removable mrks at centre front edge of fabric 22 rows after first button mrk, another mrk 22 rows after that mrk, and a final mrk 22 rows after that (including short rows) for button placement. 4 mrks placed for buttons.
SHAPE NECK AND ARMHOLE
Note: Read ahead. Armhole and neckline are shaped at the same time. Dec 1 st at neck edge of next row, every foll RS row 2 ( 2:2: 4: 5: 8: 9: 9: 10: 10) times, then every foll 3rd row 18 ( 19: 19: 19: 19: 17: 17: 17: 17: 17) times, then work even without neck shaping for 3 ( 2:4: 2: 2: 2: 2: 2: 2: 4) rows more; AT THE SAME TIME, cast off 7 ( 7:8: 8: 9: 9: 10: 11: 11: 12) sts at armhole edge of next RS row, work 1 WS row without armhole shaping, then dec 1 st at armhole edge of every row 9 ( 9:9: 9: 11: 11: 13: 15: 17: 19) times, then every foll RS row 4 ( 5:5: 6: 5: 6: 6: 6: 5: 5) times more.
Work in st st without armhole shaping for 19 ( 19: 21: 21: 23: 21: 21: 19: 21: 21) rows, then inc 1 st at armhole edge of next row, then every foll 6th row 3 times more. Work 5 more rows without armhole shaping. All armhole and neck shaping has been completed. 21 ( 21: 23: 23: 23: 24: 24: 25: 25: 25) sts.
SHAPE SHOULDER
Cont in st st, cast off 7 ( 7:8: 8: 8: 8: 8: 9: 9: 9) sts at beg of next RS row, 7 ( 7:8: 8: 8: 8: 8: 8: 8: 8) sts at beg of foll RS row, then cast off rem 7 ( 7:7: 7: 7: 8: 8: 8: 8: 8) sts on foll RS row.
RIGHT FRONT
Using 4mm straight needles, cast on 58 ( 60: 63: 66: 69: 72: 76: 82: 88: 91) sts. Row 1 (RS): K24 ( 25: 26: 27: 29: 30: 32: 34: 37: 38), P1, K1, pm, K1, P1, K to end. Row 2 (WS): P to 2 sts before mrk, K1, P1, slm, P1, K1, P to end. Rep last 2 rows 5 times more, slipping mrk. Place removable mrk at beg of last row worked (side edge). Dec row (RS): K to 4 sts before mrk, K2tog, P1, K1, slm, K1, P1, SSK, K to end. 2 sts dec’d. Place removable mrk at beg (centre edge) of this row. Cont in patt, rep dec row every foll 8th row 4 times more, then work 8 more rows even in patt. 48 ( 50: 53: 56: 59: 62: 66: 72: 78: 81) sts.
Next row (buttonhole row, RS): K2, K2tog, yo (buttonhole made), K to 4 sts before mrk, K2tog, P1, K1, slm, K1, P1, SSK, K to end. Work as for Left Front from ** to ***; AT THE SAME TIME, work buttonhole as above every foll 22 rows 3 times more (note that the last buttonhole will be made during short row bust shaping). Knit 1 more RS row.
SHORT ROW BUST
Working all sts in st st and starting with a WS row, rep Short rows 1-11 of Left Front, working final buttonhole as needed. Work 8 ( 8: 10: 10: 12: 12: 12: 10: 12: 12) whole rows in st st, picking up remaining wraps and working them with wrapped sts on first row. Place removable mrk at beg (neck edge) of last row.
SHAPE NECK AND ARMHOLE
Note: Read ahead. Armhole and neckline are shaped at the same time. Dec 1 st at neck edge of every row once, every foll RS row 2 ( 2:2: 4: 5: 8: 9: 9: 10: 10) times, then every foll 3rd row 18 ( 19: 19: 19: 19: 17: 17: 17: 17: 17) times, then work even without neck shaping for 3 ( 2:4: 2: 2: 2: 2: 2: 2:4) rows more; AT THE SAME TIME, cast off 7 ( 7:8: 8: 9: 9: 10: 11: 11: 12) sts at beg (armhole edge) of next WS row, then dec 1 st at armhole edge of every row 9 ( 9:9: 9: 11: 11: 13: 15: 17: 19) times, then every foll RS row 4 ( 5:5: 6: 5: 6: 6: 6: 5: 5) times more. Work in st st without armhole shaping for 19 ( 19: 21: 21: 23: 21: 21: 19: 21: 21) rows, then inc 1 st at armhole edge of next row, then every foll 6th row 3 times more. Work 5 more rows without armhole shaping. All armhole and neck shaping has been completed.
SHAPE SHOULDER
Cont in st st, cast off 7 ( 7:8: 8: 8: 8: 8: 9: 9: 9) sts at beg of next WS row, 7 ( 7:8: 8: 8: 8: 8: 8: 8: 8) sts at beg of foll WS row, then cast off rem 7 ( 7:7: 7: 7: 8: 8: 8: 8: 8) sts on foll WS row.
INTERMEDIATE FINISHING
Gently steam or press all pieces, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band, using measurements diagram as a guide and avoiding overstretching the front edges. Tip: To get a really neat edge, press the front edges from waist to beginning of neck shaping to 19cm long, matching back to armhole length, and spacing the buttonholes approximately 6.25cm apart, gently easing in the fullness at front edge only. ‘Balloon out’ the extra fabric lying between the side seam and the front edge at the bust area and press it by laying the excess below the bust dart, press, then move it to above the bust dart and press. Join shoulder seams. Join side seams between armhole and removable mrks
placed in side edges (removing mrks). Sew buttons in position on left front.
BINDING
Note: Stitches are picked up on the WS and the binding is stitched down on the RS of the gilet.
LEFT ARMHOLE
Using 4mm circular needles, 40cm long, and with WS of left armhole facing, pick up and knit 6 ( 6:7: 7: 8: 8: 9: 10: 10: 11) sts from the cast-off sts of Back armhole, 48 ( 50: 51: 53: 54: 54: 56: 56: 58: 59) sts to shoulder seam (approx. 7 sts for every 9 rows), 48 ( 50: 51: 53: 54: 54: 56: 56: 58: 59) sts to beg of left front armhole cast off, and 6 ( 6:7: 7: 8: 8: 9: 10: 10: 11) sts to centre of underarm. 108 ( 112: 116: 120: 124: 124: 130: 132: 136: 140) sts. Pm and join to work in the rnd. Knit 4 rnds. Cast off fairly loosely. Turn work to RS and fold down left armhole binding, then stitch into place on RS using backstitch. Tip: Keep checking that the edging is folded exactly on itself and is not getting skewed. For a top-stitched effect, do not pull the backstitches up so tightly that they sink and disappear into the cast-off stitches.
RIGHT ARMHOLE BINDING
Work as for left armhole, picking up sts on WS and across the right front armhole before the back armhole.
BACK, FRONTS AND NECK BINDING
Using 4mm circular needles, 80cm long, and with WS of Left Front facing, pick up and knit 10 sts down side slit of left front to hem, pm, pick up and knit 57 ( 59: 62: 65: 68: 71: 75: 81: 87: 90) sts from cast-on edge of left front, pm, 40 sts to next removable mrk, remove mrk, 47 sts to next removable mrk (leave mrk in fabric for later cowl placement; do not refer to this mrk when working following rnds of binding), 53 ( 55: 56: 57: 59: 59: 61: 61: 62: 64) sts to shoulder seam, 5 sts to back neck cast-off, 30 ( 32: 32: 36: 38: 40: 42: 42: 44: 44) sts across back neck cast-off, 5 sts to shoulder seam, 53 ( 55: 56: 57: 59: 59: 61: 61: 62: 64) sts to next mrk (leave mrk in fabric for later cowl placement; do not refer to this mrk when working following rnds of binding), 47 sts to next removable mrk, remove mrk, 40 sts to right front cast-on, pm, 57 ( 59: 62: 65: 68: 71: 75: 81: 87: 90) sts along cast-on edge of right front, pm, 10 sts up side slit of right front, pm, 10 sts down side slit of right back, pm, 109 ( 113: 119: 125: 131: 137: 145: 157: 169: 175) sts along cast-on edge of back, pm, then finally 10 sts up left back side slit. 583 ( 597: 611: 629: 647: 661: 683: 707: 735: 751) sts. Pm and join to work in the rnd. Rnd 1: K2tog, (K to 1 st before mrk, KFB, slm, KFB) 4 times, K to 2 sts before next mrk, SSK, slm, K2tog, (K to 1 st before next mrk, KFB, slm, KFB) twice, K to 2 sts before end of rnd, SSK, slm. 8 sts inc’d. Rnd 2: K2tog, (K to 1 st before next mrk, KFB, slm, M1) 4 times, K to 2 sts before mrk, SSK, slm, K2tog, K to 1 st before mrk, KFB, slm, M1, K to 1 st before next mrk, KFB, slm, M1, K to last 2 sts, SSK, slm. 8 sts inc’d. Rnd 3: M1, (K to 2 sts before next mrk, SSK, slm, K2tog) 4 times, K to 1 st before mrk, KFB, slm, M1, K to 2 sts before mrk, SSK, slm, K2tog, K to 2 sts before next mrk, SSK, slm, K2tog, K to last st, KFB. 8 sts dec’d. Rnd 4: As Rnd 3. Cast off fairly loosely in patt of Rnd 3.
Finish as for left armhole binding.
COWL
Using 4mm needles, cast on 50 sts. Knit 1 row. Row 1 (RS): (K1, M1) twice, P2, (K2, P2) 11 times, (M1, P1) twice. 54 sts. Row 2: (K1, P1) twice, (K2, P2) 11 times, K2, (K1, P1) twice. Row 3: (K1, P1) twice, M1, P2, (K2, P2) to last 4 sts, (K1, P1) twice. 1 st inc’d. Row 4: (K1, P1) twice, (K2, P2) to last 7 sts, K2, P1, (K1, P1) twice. Row 5: (K1, P1) twice, M1, K1, P2, (K2, P2) to last 4 sts, (K1, P1) twice. 1 st inc’d. Row 6: (K1, P1) twice, (K2, P2) to last 4 sts, (K1, P1) twice. Row 7: (K1, P1) twice, M1P, (K2, P2) to last 4 sts, (K1, P1) twice. 1 st inc’d. Row 8: (K1, P1) twice, (K2, P2) to last 5 sts, K1, (K1, P1) twice. Row 9: (K1, P1) twice, M1P, P1, (K2, P2) to last 4 sts, (K1, P1) twice. 1 st inc’d. Row 10: (K1, P1) twice, (K2, P2) to last 6 sts, K2, (K1, P1) twice. Rep last 8 rows 14 times more. 114 sts.
Work even in patt for 78 rows. Row 201 (RS): (K1, P1) twice, P2tog, (K2, P2) to last 4 sts, (K1, P1) twice. 1 st dec’d. Row 202: (K1, P1) twice, (K2, P2) to last 5 sts, K1, (K1, P1) twice. Row 203: (K1, P1) twice, K2tog, K1, P2, (K2, P2) to last 4 sts, (K1, P1) twice. 1 st dec’d. Row 204: (K1, P1) twice, (K2, P2) to last 4 sts, (K1, P1) twice. Row 205: (K1, P1) twice, K2tog, P2, (K2, P2) to last 4 sts, (K1, P1) twice. 1 st dec’d. Row 206: (K1, P1) twice, (K2, P2) to last 7 sts, K2, P1, (K1, P1) twice. Row 207 (RS): (K1, P1) twice, P2tog, P1, (K2, P2) to last 4 sts, (K1, P1) twice. 1 st dec’d. Row 208: (K1, P1) twice, (K2, P2) to last 6 sts, K2, (K1, P1) twice. Rep last 8 rows 14 times more. 54 sts. Row 321 (RS): (K1, P1) twice, P2, (K2, P2) 11 times, (K1, P1) twice. Row 322: (P2tog tbl) twice, (K2, P2) 11 times, K2, (P2tog tbl) twice. Row 323 (RS): Purl. Cast off knitwise.
FINISHING
Weave in ends. Gently press or steam cowl using diagram as a guide, trying to keep the 4 rib sts at either end of each row unstretched.
ATTACH COWL TO LEFT NECK EDGE
Pin the cast-on edge of cowl to underside of Right Front, with RS of cowl facing WS of Right Front, and with the shaped edge of cowl aligned with the mrk (at the start of gilet neckline shaping) and the straight edge at a point 20 cm from the mrk towards the shoulder seam. Oversew this edge in place to the binding. On RS, catch down binding to cowl to reinforce the join.
Bring cast-off end of cowl under sewn section and attach to WS of Left Front as follows: 1. With RS of Front facing, hold the cast-off edge of cowl out to the right, with straight edge towards shoulder seams and curved edge towards bottom edge of gilet. 2. Bring the cast-off edge round to the left then tuck it under the cowl (attached to the Right Front) and under the Left Front. Pin the cast-off edge in place with curved edge at Left Front mrk and straight edge 20 cm towards shoulder seam (to mirror cast-on edge attached to Right Front). Oversew this edge in place to the binding. On RS, catch down binding to cowl to reinforce the join.