Spiralis by Di Gilpin
This modern top is formed from spiralling panels of ombre fabric, worked in a drop-stitch cable design
THIS INNOVATIVE design by Di Gilpin is made by sewing together a series of panels, in sequence, to create a spiral effect. “The fabric features a dropped stitch cable pattern, which is a 24-row repeat pattern,” explains Di. “Each panel is worked using three strands of yarn in different colour combinations, to produce an ombre effect.”
PATTERN NOTES
Before starting, make three equal-sized balls from each 100g hank of yarn of approx. 33g each. Don’t wind any more yarn than this until you need it. When holding 3 strands together, you may not use equal amounts of each strand, so you may not to need to wind on extra yarn in some shades. Each panel will be worked using 3 strands in different colour combinations. Each colour has a letter. The number of strands in a particular colour combination will be e.g. [A1, B2] which indicates 1 thread of yarn A and 2 threads of yarn B. This creates the ombre look to the design.
CONSTRUCTION
This garment is made by sewing together, using mattress stitch, a series of panels, in sequence, to create a spiral effect. The pattern used is the Dropped Stitch Cable pattern, which is a 24 row repeat pattern. A set-up row is worked once at the start of each panel. Colour changes are made every 12 rows, on rows 1 and 13 of the nd Dropped Stitch Cable pattern. Each colour section is 12 rows long, apart from the Front Collar and the Back Collar sections (see instructions below). Leave a contrast colour yarn as a marker every 24th row. This helps when sewing up later. If desired you can make all panels before sewing them together.
DROPPED STITCH CABLE PATTERN
Note: when dropping stitches off the needle, they will stop above the last yrn you made and won’t run to the bottom of the work. Set-up row is worked once per panel. Cast on 41 ( 45: 51: 55) sts using yarn given for panel. Set-up row (WS): K2 ( 3:5: 6), P2, (K1, P2) 3 times, K2 ( 3:4: 5), (P1, P2tog, yrn) 3 times, P2, K2 ( 3:4: 5), P2, (K1, P2) 3 times, K2 ( 3:5: 6). Rows 1 and 3 (RS): P2 ( 3:5: 6), *(K2, P1) 3 times, K2, P2 ( 3:4: 5); rep from * once more, (K2, P1) 3 times, K2, P2 ( 3:5: 6). Rows 2 and 4: K all K sts, P all P sts. If there are any P2togs or yrns on previous row, work them as knit sts. Row 5: P2 ( 3:5: 6), C11B, P2 ( 3:4: 5), (K2, P1) 3 times, K2, P2 ( 3:4: 5), C11B, P2 ( 3:5: 6). Row 6: K2 ( 3:5: 6), (P1, P2tog, yrn) 3 times, P2, K2 ( 3:4: 5), (P2, K1) 3 times, P2, K2 ( 3:4: 5), (P1, P2tog, yrn) 3 times, P2, K2 ( 3:5: 6). Row 7: As Row 1. Row 8: K2 ( 3:5: 6), P2, (K1, P2) 3 times, K2 ( 3:4: 5), (P2, slip next st off needle and let it run down to yrn below, yrn) 3 times, P2, K2 ( 3:4: 5), P2, (K1, P2) 3 times, K2 ( 3:5: 6). Row 9: P2 ( 3:5: 6), (K2, P1) 3 times, K2, P2 ( 3:4: 5), C11B, P2 ( 3:4: 5), (K2, P1) 3 times, K2, P2 ( 3:5: 6) Rows 10, 12, 14 and 16: As Row 2. Row 11, 13 and 15: As Row 1. Row 17: As Row 9. Row 18: K2 ( 3:5: 6), P2, (K1, P2) 3 times, K2 ( 3:4: 5), (P1, P2tog, yrn) 3 times, P2, K2 ( 3:4: 5), P2, (K1, P2) 3 times, K2 ( 3:5: 6). Row 19: As Row 1. Row 20: K2 ( 3:5: 6), P2, (slip next st off needle and let it run down, yrn, P2) 3 times, K2 ( 3:4: 5), (P2, K1) 3 times, P2, K2 ( 3:4: 5), P2, (slip next st off needle and let it run down, yrn, P2) 3 times, K2 ( 3:5: 6). Row 21: P2 ( 3:5: 6), C11B, P2 ( 3:4: 5), (K2, P1) 3 times, K2, P2 ( 3:4: 5), C11B, P2 ( 3:5: 6). Row 22: As Row 2. Row 23: As Row 1. Row 24: As Row 2. These 24 rows form the pattern.
STAGE ONE PANEL 1: MAIN STRIP FOR FRONT & BACK
Working from Front to Back over the shoulder. This is the main and longest panel. Using 5mm needles and the long-tail
method, cast on 41 ( 45: 51: 55) sts using 1 strand of A and 2 strands of B [A1, B2]. Work Set-up row once. Now cont in Dropped Stitch Cable Pattern for 228 rows, working in 12-row sections of the following colour order: [A1, B2] [B3] [B2, C1] [B1, C2] [C3] [D1, C2] [D2, C1] [D3] [A1, D2] [A2, D1] [A3] [B1, A2] [B2, A1] [B3] [C1, B2] [C2, B1] [C3] [D1, C2] [D2, C1]. Cast off loosely and evenly. Panel should meas approx. 117cm long.
PANEL 2: CENTRE FRONT
The Front Panel section includes the Front Collar section. Using 5mm needles and the long-tail method, cast on 41 ( 45: 51: 55) sts using 3 strands of A [A3]. Work set-up row once. Now cont in Dropped Stitch Cable Pattern for 108 rows, working in 12-row sections of the following colour order: [A3] [B1, A2] [B2, A1] [B3] [C1, B2] [C2, B1] [C3] [D1, C2] [D2, C1]. Change to 5.5mm needles. Continue with D3 plus 1 extra thread of D (4 threads in total) for Front Collar for 15 rows of Dropped Stitch Cable Pattern. Cast off loosely and evenly. Piece should meas approx. 63cm long.
SEWING UP A1
Lay Panel 1 flat on a table with RS facing and mark the halfway length point. Place Panel 2 beside Panel 1 matching up the bottom edges ndand the rows. As you face the two pieces, the right edge of Panel 2 should be joined to the left edge of Panel 1. Using mattress stitch, sew one stitch in from each side up to row 108. Do not sew collar section for the moment. This will leave 6 rows at the front up to the middle fold line of panel 1. These will be picked up later to add a side section into the collar.
SEWING UP A2
Sew the back bottom 24 rows of Panel 1 to the front bottom 24 rows of Panel 2. Set aside.
STAGE 2 PANEL 3: UNDERARM TO SHOULDER SHAPING
Using 5mm needles and the long-tail method, cast on 41 ( 45: 51: 55) sts using [C1, B2]. Work set-up row once. Now cont in Dropped Stitch Cable Pattern for 84 rows, working in 12-row sections of the following colour order: [C1, B2] [C2, B1] [C3] [D1, C2] [D2, C1] [D3] [A1, D2]. Cast off loosely and evenly. This cast-off is the Shoulder seam on the right side of the garment. Piece should measure approx 43cm long.
PANEL 4: INCLUDES BACK COLLAR SECTION
Using 5mm needles and the long-tail method, cast on 41 ( 45: 51: 55) sts using [C1, B2]. Work set-up row once. Now cont in Dropped Stitch Cable Pattern for 72 rows, working in 12-row sections of the following colour order: [C1, B2] [C2, B1] [C3] [D1, C2] [D2, C1] [D3]. Change to 5.5mm needles. Continue with D3 plus 1 extra strand of D (4 strands in total) for Back Collar for 15 more rows of Dropped Stitch Cable Pattern. Cast off loosely and evenly. Piece should meas approx. 45cm long.
SEWING UP B
Sew the front bottom cast-on edge of Panel 3 using mattress stitch (stitch to row) to rows 25-48 of the Back bottom Panel 1.
SEWING UP C
Pin the left front edge of Panel 3 to the Right front edge of Panel 2 from row 25 of Panel 2 for the 78 rows to 6 rows from the top shoulder seam (cast-off edge) of Panel 3. Sew into place.
SEWING UP D
Place Panel 4 and pin the right side edge to Panel 1 leaving the 15 rows at the top of Panel 4 to sew up later for the collar and pinning 5 rows down from the central shoulder point of Panel 1.
This leaves 11 rows from Panel 1 which will be picked up from and knitted into a side panel in the collar. Join these edges, using mattress stitch as before and joining the cast-on edge of Panel 4 to where Panel 3 has been sewn in.
STAGE 3 PANEL 5: BACK/FRONT BOTTOM SECTION
Using 5mm needles and the long-tail method, cast on 41 ( 45: 51: 55) sts using [C3]. Work set-up row once. Now cont in Dropped Stitch Cable Pattern for 72 rows, working in 12-row sections of the following colour order: [C3] [C2, D1] [C1, D2] [D3] [D2, A1] [ D1, A2]. Cast off loosely and evenly. Piece should meas approx. 37cm long.
PANEL 6: BACK UNDERARM TO SHOULDER SECTION
Using 5mm needles and the long-tail method, cast on 41 ( 45: 51: 55) sts using [D1, C2]. Work set-up row once. Now cont in Dropped Stitch Cable Pattern for 40 ( 42: 44: 46) rows, working in 12-row sections of the following colour order: For the last section work only the first 4 ( 6: 8: 10) rows after the change of colour. [D1, C2] [D2, C1] [D3] [D2, A1] Cast off loosely and evenly. Piece should meas approx. 21 ( 22: 23: 24) cm.
SEWING UP E1
Sew the shoulder seam between Panels 3 and 6 using mattress stitch.
SEWING UP E2
Sew back Panel 6 to the edge of Panel 4, so that the bottom right corner of the piece meets the join point between Panels 3 and 4 and leaving 6 rows at the top to pick up to knit the side section of collar. You will need to ease in the cast-off edge and left edge of Panel 6 into the right curving edge of Panel 4. The stretchiness of the cables will allow you to do this.
SEWING UP F1
On front of garment, sew long left edge of panel 5 to right edge of Panel 1.
SEWING UP F2
On back of garment, sew cast-off edge of panel 5 to left edge of Panel 1.
SEWING UP F3
(not shown on diagram) Sew up side of 5 and 1 further until an opening with an armhole depth of 21 ( 22: 23: 24cm) remains. It is worth trying on the top to make sure it fits well at the armhole before this final bit of sewing up, as the bias of the fabric will affect the fit.
STAGE 4 FINISHING THE COLLAR
At each side of the collar pick up and knit 12 sts down the sides left unsewn. These become the side panels of the collar. Work 7.5cm in the following rib pattern, using [D4]: Row 1 (RS facing): K2, *P2, K1; rep from * twice more, K1. Row 2: P1, *P1, K2; repeat from * to last 2 sts, P2.
SEWING UP G
Sew the four seams for these collar panels in mattress stitch. Sew in any loose ends.
FINISHING
Steam block gently flat, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band. Do not worry about pulling to measurements as the garment will stretch on the bias. Leave to dry.