Williwaw by Romi Hill
Lightweight lace cardigan has an unusual construction
NOTES
It is extremely important to swatch for this sweater because the lace will relax substantially after washing and blocking, and there will be large differences in pre- and post-blocking measurements. Make sure to work the slipped edge stitches of Charts A-1 through A-3 and Charts F-1 through F-3 loosely, so they can be stretched firmly to create straight edges during blocking. If you use markers to set off individual pattern repeats, you may need to move each marker one stitch to accommodate a decrease that falls at the start or end of an outlined pattern repeat, before the first repeat, or after the last repeat. The loops picked up from the provisional cast-on lie between actual stitches, so there will be one fewer than the number of stitches required. To make up the one-loop deficit, create an extra loop at one side by slipping the needle under one leg of a garter selvedge stitch from the first row.
RIGHT FRONT
Note: The right front is worked from the point of the asymmetrical front closure out to the right side of the neck opening. Using waste yarn and longer 3.5mm circular needles, use a provisional method to cast on 6 ( 6:8: 8: 6) sts, leaving a 92cm tail for working button loop and grafting later. Change to working yarn and knit 1 RS row. Next row: (WS) P3, yo, purl to end. 7 ( 7:9: 9: 7) sts. Work Rows 1–36 of Chart A-1. 49 ( 49: 51: 51: 49) sts. Work Rows 1–12 of Chart A-2, working the 17-st repeat box once. 66 ( 66: 68: 68: 66) sts. Size 2XL only Work Rows 1–12 of Chart A-2 once more, working the 17-st repeat box twice. - (-:-:-:83) sts. All sizes Work Rows 1–10 of Chart A-3. 79 ( 79: 81: 81: 96) sts; 60 ( 60: 60: 60: 72) rows completed (including 2 rows before first chart); piece meas approx. 16 ( 16 :16 : 16 :20 ) cm from cast on, after blocking. Work Row 11 of Chart A-3 to last 3 sts, place rem 3 edge sts onto waste-yarn. 76 ( 76: 78: 78: 93) sts. Work Rows 12–18 of Chart A-3. Work Rows 1–6 of Chart A-4 once. Work Rows 7–18 of Chart A-4, 3 times. Work Rows 19 and 20 of Chart A-4 once, ending at right side of neck opening. Piece meas approx 33 ( 31: 31: 31: 35) cm from cast-on, after blocking. With RS facing, place 3 neck edge sts at beg of row onto waste yarn; place rem 73 ( 73: 75: 75: 90) sts on spare circular needle or waste yarn. Cut yarn, leaving a 30cm tail for grafting neck edge sts to back later.
RIGHT BACK
Note: The right back is worked from centre out to the right side of the neck opening. Using longer 3.5mm circular needles and waste yarn, use a provisional method to cast on 76 ( 76: 78: 78: 93) sts. Change to working yarn and purl 1 WS row. Work Rows 1–16 of Chart B once. Work Rows 17–28 of Chart B twice. Work Rows 29 and 30 of Chart B once, ending at right side of neck opening. 43 rows completed (inc first WS row); piece meas 12cm from cast-on, after blocking. With RS facing, place 3 neck edge sts at end of row onto waste yarn. 73 ( 73: 75: 75: 90) sts rem on needle.
RIGHT SHOULDER AND SLEEVE
Work Row 1 of Chart C to join right back and front as foll: Work first 72 ( 72: 74: 74: 89) chart sts across back sts on needle, temporarily slip last back st onto right needle tip; place 73 ( 73: 75: 75: 90) held right front sts onto left needle with RS facing, slip last back st onto cn and hold in front, knit the first front st, then knit last back st
from cn; work rem 72 ( 72: 74: 74: 89) chart sts across 72 ( 72: 74: 74: 89) right front sts. 146 ( 146: 150: 150: 180) sts. Work Row 2 of Chart C. Work Row 3 of Chart C, dec 2 sts in centre as shown. 144 ( 144: 148: 148: 178) sts. Work Rows 4–10 of Chart C once. Work Rows 11–22 of Chart C2 ( 3: 4: 5: 6) times. 34 ( 46: 58: 70: 82) rows completed from end of right neck opening. Notes: Use Chart D for sizes S and 2XL; use Chart D-1 for sizes M, L and XL. When working Chart D-1 for sizes M and L, work the green-shaded edge stitches and everything between them, omitting the pink-shaded stitches. When working Chart D-1 for size XL, work the entire chart, including the pink-shaded stitches and working the green-shaded stitches that apply to the other two sizes in stocking stitch. Work Rows 1–6 of Chart for your size. 40 ( 52: 64: 76: 88) total shoulder rows from end of right neck opening; shoulder meas 11 ( 14 :18: 21: 25) cm after blocking. Cast off for sides of body on next 2 rows as foll: Row 7 (RS): Cast off 28 ( 25: 25: 22: 28) sts, work to end. 116 ( 119: 123: 126: 150) sts. Row 8 (WS): Cast off 28 ( 25: 25: 22: 28) sts, work to end. 88 ( 94: 98: 104: 122) sts rem. Work Rows 9–36 of chart, dec as shown. 76 ( 82: 86: 92: 110) sts rem. Work Rows 25–36 of chart 4 times. 78 rows completed from start of side cast-off rows; sleeve meas 21 cm from side cast-off, after blocking. Place sts onto holder; do not cut yarn.
LEFT BACK
Note: The left back is worked from centre out to the left side of the neck opening. Carefully remove provisional cast-on from right back sts and place 76 ( 76: 78: 78: 93) sts onto 3.5mm longer circular needles. Work Rows 1–16 of Chart E once. Work Rows 17–28 of Chart E twice. Work Rows 29 and 30 of Chart E once, ending at left side of neck opening. 42 rows completed (including first WS row); piece meas 12cm from cast-on, after blocking. With RS facing, place 3 neck edge sts at beg of row onto waste yarn; place rem 73 ( 73: 75: 75: 90) sts onto a holder. Cut yarn, leaving a 31cm tail for grafting neck edge sts to front later.
LEFT FRONT
Note: The left front is worked from the point of the front closure underlayer out to the left side of the neck opening. Using 3.5mm longer circular needles and waste yarn, use a provisional method to cast on 6 ( 6:8: 8: 6) sts, leaving a 92cm tail for working button loop and grafting later. Change to working yarn and knit 1 RS row. Next row (WS): P3 ( 3:5: 5: 3), yo, P to end. 7 ( 7:9: 9: 7) sts. Work Rows 1–36 of Chart F-1. 49 ( 49: 51: 51: 49) sts. Work Rows 1–12 of Chart F-2, working the 17-st repeat box once. 66 ( 66: 68: 68: 66) sts. Size 2XL only Work Rows 1–12 of Chart F-2 once more, working the 17-st repeat box twice. - (-:-:-:83) sts. All sizes Work Rows 1–10 of Chart F-3. 79 ( 79: 81: 81: 96) sts; 60 ( 60: 60: 60: 72) rows completed (including 2 rows before first chart); piece meas 16 ( 16 :16 : 16 :20 ) cm) from cast-on, after blocking. Work Row 11 of Chart F-3 by placing 3 edge sts at beg of row onto waste-yarn holder, then work in patt to end. 76 ( 76: 78: 78: 93) sts.
Work Rows 12–18 of Chart F-3. Work Rows 1–6 of Chart F-4 once. Work Rows 7–18 of Chart F-4 twice; this is deliberately 1 less repeat than for the right front. Work Rows 19 and 20 of Chart F-4 once, ending at left side of neck opening - piece meas 28 ( 28: 28: 28: 31 ) cm from cast-on, after blocking. With RS facing, place 3 neck edge sts at end of row onto waste yarn. 73 ( 73: 75: 75: 90) sts rem on needle.
LEFT SHOULDER AND SLEEVE
Work Row 1 of Chart C to join left front and back as foll: Work first 72 ( 72: 74: 74: 89) chart sts across front sts on needle, temporarily slip last front st onto right needle tip; place 73 ( 73: 75: 75: 90) held left back sts onto left needle with RS facing, slip last front st onto cn and hold in front of work, knit the first back st, then knit last front st from cn; work rem 72 ( 72: 74: 74: 89) chart sts across 72 ( 72: 74: 74: 89) left back sts. 146 ( 146: 150: 150: 180) sts. Complete as for right shoulder and sleeve. 76 ( 82: 86: 92: 110) sts rem; sleeve will meas 21 cm from side cast-off, after blocking. Place sts onto holder; do not cut yarn.
NECK EDGING AND BUTTON LOOP
Remove waste yarn from 3 held back sts and 3 held front sts at shoulder, then place sts onto separate DPN in middle size. With yarn tail threaded on a tapestry needle, use Kitchener stitch to graft edge sts together so i-cord edging appears continuous as it crosses the shoulder line. Use the tail to tidy the join on the WS, if necessary. Repeat for second shoulder. Remove waste yarn from right front provisional cast-on, place first 3 ( 3:4: 4: 3) sts onto 3.25mm DPN, then place rem 3 ( 3:4: 4: 3) sts onto a stitch holder. Rejoin yarn with RS facing. Work 3 ( 3:4: 4: 3) st i-cord until piece is long enough to form a loop that snugly fits a 2cm button. Bring live i-cord sts and held sts together so the loop is twisted at its base, and use Kitchener stitch to graft loop closed. Sew through all layers at twisted base of loop to stabilise. Remove waste yarn from left front provisional cast-on and place 3 ( 3:4: 4: 3) sts each onto separate DPN in middle size. With yarn tail threaded on a tapestry needle, use Kitchener stitch to graft edge sts together so i-cord edging appears continuous as it rounds the corner, then use the tail to tidy the join on the WS, if necessary.
LOWER SLEEVES
Taking care not to get the balls of yarn attached to the sleeves wet, block front and back lace sections to measurements, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band. Allow to dry completely before continuing. Place 76 ( 82: 86: 92: 110) held sleeve sts onto shorter 3.5mm circular needles. With yarn attached to sleeve sts, knit to last st, working each st that lies directly above a yo from the final chart row as K1tbl. Bring ends of row together and work last st together with first st as K2tog tbl to join in the rnd. 75 ( 81: 85: 91: 109) sts. Pm for beg of rnd. Next rnd: Purl to last 2 sts, P2tog. 74 ( 80: 84: 90: 108) sts rem. Knit 9 rnds even. Dec rnd: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 2 sts dec’d. Rep the last 10 rnds 5 ( 5:5: 6: 0) more times. 62 ( 68: 72: 76: 106) sts. Sleeve meas 19 ( 19 :19 : 23: 4) cm from last row of lace chart. Size 2XL only Knit 7 rnds even. Dec rnd: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 2 sts dec’d. Rep the last 8 rnds 7 more times. - (-:-:-:90) sts. Change to shorter 3.25mm circular needles. (Rep dec rnd, then work 1 rnd even) twice. - (-:-:-:86) sts. All sizes Work even in st st, if necessary, until sleeve meas 19 ( 20 :21: 22: 25 ) cm from last row of lace chart. Purl 1 rnd, then knit 2 rnds. Sleeve meas 20 ( 21: 21 : 23: 25 ) cm from last row of lace chart. Using 2.75mm needles, use the stretchy method (see information panel) to cast off all sts.
LOWER BODY
With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, sew body side seams, sewing 1 full st in from the edge so the garter selvedge sts do not show on RS. Hold body upside down. Remove waste yarn from 3 held sts of left front corner (the ones put onto holder in Row 11 of Chart F-3), and place sts onto longer 3.5mm circular needles. Join yarn with RS facing. K3, return 3 sts just worked to left needle wyib, and work them again as K3. Note: When picking up stitches, make sure to pick up one full stitch in from the edge so that the twisted garter selvedge stitch is not visible from the right side. Cont with yarn attached to 3 edge sts,
pick up and knit 60 ( 69: 78: 87: 96) sts across bottom edge of left front; 123 ( 141: 159: 177: 195) sts across back, and 70 ( 79: 88: 97: 106) sts across right front; then place 3 held sts of right front corner (the ones put onto holder in Row 11 of Chart A-3) onto left needle, K3, return 3 sts just worked onto left needle wyib, work them again as K3. 259 ( 295: 331: 367: 403) sts total. Allowing rem sts to rest on needle, work 3-st i-cord on last 3 sts only until piece is the same length as previous button loop. Twist the i-cord and turn the work; this second button loop will be sewn closed later. Next row (WS): Sl 1 wyif, P2, *K1tbl; rep from * to last 3 sts, P3. Next row (RS): Sl 3 wyib, knit to end. Next row: Sl 3 wyif, purl to end. Rep the last 2 rows until piece meas 22 ( 23 :23 : 25: 20 ) cm from pick-up row, ending with a RS row. Note: The largest size has a deeper upper body, so its lower body is shorter to prevent the overall length from becoming too long. Change to longer 3.25mm circular needles. Row 1 (WS): Sl 3 wyif, knit to last 3 sts, P3. Row 2 (RS): Sl 3 wyib, knit to end. Row 3: Sl 2 wyif, purl to end. Piece meas 23 ( 24: 24: 25 :21) cm from pick-up row. With RS facing, use the stretchy method to cast off all sts.
FINISHING
Sew i-cord button loop onto right front at lower body pick-up row, twisting its base to match the other button loop. Sew through all layers at twisted base of loop to stabilise. Dip lower body and sleeve into wool wash and remove excess water; it’s not necessary to block the lace sections again. Block lower edge into a straight line by weaving blocking wires in and out of the pick-up and cast-on edges of the lower body while the piece is damp, then pinning to measurements. Block the lower sleeves as flat and straight as possible. Allow to air-dry thoroughly before removing wires and pins.
BUTTONS
Try on sweater with side seams hanging vertically and aligned with the sides of your body. Overlap the right front on top of the left front, with neck edges and lower body pick-up row even, and adjust the amount of overlap to the point at which the best fit is achieved. Mark where the button loops touch the RS of the left front at neckline and pick-up row, and where the upper left front corner touches the WS of the right front. Sew one small clear button to WS of right front at neck edge; the first yo in the left front corner will serve as its buttonhole. Place one large button at the marked neckline position on RS of left front, then place a small clear button directly under it on the WS to serve as a backing button, and sew buttons to one another, sandwiching the fabric. Place the second large button and remaining backing button at marked pick-up row position on RS of left front, and sew buttons together. Weave in loose ends.