Louisa Harding
Knitwear designer Louisa Harding has launched a brand-new yarn range spun in her home county of Yorkshire
The designer reveals the story behind her new yarn range, Yarntelier
KNOWN FOR her feminine, intricate patterns, Louisa Harding has had a long career in knitwear design, starting out at Rowan Yarns and establishing herself as an independent designer. She has also had great success with her range of yarns produced in association with Knitting Fever. Now, Louisa has launched a new venture, called Yarntelier, offering luxurious cashmere yarns spun in a historic mill in Yorkshire. We spoke with Louisa about her new project.
When did you learn to knit?
“My Grandma taught me to knit when I was about six years old. As a teenager I was really into making clothes; I received a sewing machine for my 18th birthday, and I studied dressmaking and pattern cutting. It wasn’t until I was at college that I fell in love with the handknitted stitch.”
What was the first original piece of knitwear you ever created?
“When I was studying Textiles for Fashion at Brighton University, we were given various projects to complete. One of these projects was set by Woman magazine and sponsored by Patons - the brief was to design a handknitted garment that was inspired by the Olympics (the 1988 Olympics!). I designed a gymnastics-inspired sweater with a textured pattern, which was embellished with a contrast
colour to look like gymnastic ribbons, and a leaf edging around the wide leotardinspired neckline. I had to knit the garment myself. I was placed third in the competition; I was given a celebration lunch and had photos of the sweater published in the magazine. I still have my award safely tucked away.”
How did you come to work in the knitwear industry?
“While studying for my degree, I undertook a three-month placement at Rowan Yarns, and loved the company’s design ethos. Rowan sponsored my fourth-year collection, and when I left college I went to work for them full-time. I worked at Rowan for 11 years until I left to have my son in 2001, when I became a freelance handknit designer. In 2005 I was approached by an American company, Knitting Fever, and together we created the Louisa Harding Yarn collection. This is distributed in the UK by Designer Yarns.”
Your yarn collections distributed by Designer Yarns have been very popular over the years. What is different about your new Yarntelier venture?
“When I first went as a placement student to Rowan, I was sent out to find out all about the yarn industry in West Yorkshire. I visited the types of different spinning mills, learnt the difference between worsted and woollen spinning, and spent a week at the dye house. All these experiences helped me understand the processes of fleece to fibre.
“With the Louisa Harding Yarns collection I was able to source yarn from manufacturers around the world - Italy, Spain, Peru, Argentina and many others. Yarntelier is a concept I had a few years ago when I realised that many of the mills I had visited as a student no longer existed, and I felt that it was important to champion the Yorkshire yarn industry.”
Tell us about Yarntelier’s Cashmere Lace and Cashmere Gilli yarns – how did you come to choose the fibre content?
“The concept for Yarntelier was the reverse of how I had been sourcing yarns for the Louisa Harding Yarn collection. I wanted to be more involved with the yarn manufacture, and to work with a local yarn spinning mill. I contacted Z. Hinchcliffe & Son, which is five miles away from my home. It has been producing yarns for over 200 years, and specialises in spinning cashmere yarns for industrial weaving and knitting. I have worked with the team to create handknitting versions of their yarns by having them bespoke-twisted. For knitters, time is our most precious commodity, so it is worth using the finest yarns and fibres that you can afford!
“Cashmere is an incredibly light fibre, and as a consequence one ball of Cashmere Gilli (our DK-weight yarn) has 212 metres per 50g ball and Cashmere Lace has 425 metres. One ball can knit an entire project.”
What kind of projects will these yarns be most suited to?
“Yarntelier Cashmere Lace is ideal for all types of lace knitting, particularly shawls and scarves, as it is so light and lofty. Cashmere Gilli is a DK weight and is perfect for sweater and accessories. Because cashmere fibres are so light, you can knit these two yarns with a range of different needle sizes depending on the finished fabric you require. Once the yarn is knitted and wet blocked, the fibres ‘bloom’, and the resulting fabrics are beautifully soft and light, and super-warm to wear.”
Your first book of designs for Yarntelier – Handknit Volume One – is beautiful! Where were the photographs taken?
“Yorkshire was my inspiration for the yarns and also for the photography.
My husband Stephen is the photographer; we have been working together for 15 years, and our images are very much a creative collaboration. We didn’t travel far for our shoot, using locations local to us - Cooks Study Hill, Wickleden Woods and Digley Reservoir. The shade names of the Cashmere Gilli are also taken from the local beauty spots Wildspur, Malkin, Greenacre and Boshaw.”
How would you describe your aesthetic, and where do you find inspiration?
“Over the years I have realised that I am unapologetically feminine with my designs. My design aesthetic comes from my love of 1930s and ’40s clothes and pattern cutting. It is really important that the fit of a garment is correct, and that it flatters the female form, so I use a tailor’s dummy when designing. I like playing about with different fabrics, turning them on their side or knitting on larger needles to create drape. I also love detail, different edgings and subtle use of stitch pattern. Inspiration may start with a garment shape or stitch pattern.”
How often do you plan to release new patterns or collections?
“In October 2016 we launched the yarn collection with the Handknit Volume One pattern collection. Storytelling through photography has always been very important to me, and stems from my early career at Rowan. Volume One showcases the collection from my designer’s perspective. The patterns can also be purchased individually, as well as PDF downloads. In December we released some accessory patterns ideal for gift knitting, and for Valentine’s Day we published a mini collection of heart-themed patterns. Pattern publication for Yarntelier will be more organic, with smaller collections being released more often; we have a capsule spring collection scheduled for release in April.”
What has been your proudest achievement?
“I have been working as a handknit designer for over 25 years, and have learnt many different aspects of the handknitting industry. I am really proud of the Yarntelier Collection and concept. Knitters have always been my muse - which yarns would they like to use, what type of patterns would they like to knit. I love Yarntelier’s cashmere yarn, it really is beautiful; when I finish knitting a piece and wet block it I just can’t help stroking the luxurious fabric. I love the brand ethos and my connection with the yarn manufacture, as it is spun, twisted and balled locally; and all the people I am working with have been so generous with their expertise and knowledge. I love that when I receive a yarn order from a customer, that same day I can pack it in a lovely project bag, in a gorgeous purple envelope, then walk with my dog over the hills to the post office, sending parcels out to knitters all over the world. I have really enjoyed meeting all the amazing knitters and craftspeople at consumer shows, all linked by a common thread. This collection is very personal to me.”
What’s the best piece of advice you’ve received from another knitter or designer?
“I have received many pieces of invaluable advice over the years. However, I want to pay tribute to all the remarkable hardworking, life- and family-juggling women who have been my role models. Designers, studio managers, store owners, sample knitters, technical editors, magazine editors: you make it happen, and you are all amazing.”