The Knitter

Ceilidh

- Mary Henderson

A PALETTE of soft pastel colours gives this waistcoat design the look of a Scottish summer meadow. Mary Henderson’s Fair Isle pattern has bands of little flower motifs, combined with an attractive three-colour striped ribbing for the hem and button bands. The project is worked in the round, with a column of steek stitches that are cut open and reinforced before stitches are picked up and worked for the edgings. It is knitted in 4ply Shetland wool from Jamieson & Smith.

PATTERN NOTES RIB !WORKED FLAT"

Note: purl sts on the edge of the row make a neater pick-up edge for the neckband. Row 1 (WS): *K1, P1; rep from * to last st, K1. Row 2 (RS): *P1, K1; rep from * to last st, P1. Rep these 2 rows for patt.

BODY

Using 3mm circular needles, 60cm long, yarn A, and the long-tail cast-on method, cast on 227 ( 251: 275: 299: 323: 347) sts. Do not join. Work in rib for 4 rows. Change to yarn B and work 3 rows. Change to yarn C and work 1 row. Change to yarn B and work 3 rows. Change to yarn A and work 5 rows, inc 1 st at end of last row. 228 ( 252: 276: 300: 324: 348) sts. Do not turn. Place steek mrk, cast on 9 steek sts onto RH needle and join to work in the rnd. Pm for beg of rnd. Change to 3.25mm circular needles. Next rnd: Working rnd 1 of Chart A, patt 58 ( 64: 70: 76: 82: 88), pm, patt 112 ( 124: 136: 148: 160: 172), pm, patt 58 ( 64: 70: 76: 82: 88), slm, work Steek Chart, slm. Continuing as set, slipping mrks, work even in patt until work meas 30 cm from cast-on.

SHAPE ARMHOLES

Next rnd: *Patt to 9 ( 10: 12: 13: 15: 17) sts before mrk, K2tog, K1, pm, slip next 12 ( 14: 18: 20: 24: 28) sts to holder, cast on 9 sts, pm, K1, SSK; rep from * once more, patt to mrk, slm, work steek, slm. 51 ( 56: 60: 65: 69: 73) sts for each front, 98 ( 108: 116: 126: 134: 142) sts for back, and 9 sts for each of three steeks. Dec rnd: *Patt to 3 sts before mrk, K2tog, K1, slm, work Steek Chart, slm, K1, SSK; rep from * once more, patt to mrk, slm, work steek, slm. 4 sts dec’d. Cont in patt, repeating dec round every foll rnd 6 ( 7: 8: 10: 11: 12) times more. 44 ( 48: 51: 54: 57: 60) sts for each front, 84 ( 92: 98: 104: 110: 116) sts for back, and 9 sts for each of three steeks.

SHAPE NECK

Neck Dec rnd: K1, SSK, patt to 3 sts before final steek, K2tog, K1, work steek. 1 st dec’d each side of neck. Rep Neck Dec rnd every alt rnd 27 ( 28: 30: 31: 33: 34) times more. 16 ( 19: 20: 22: 23: 25) sts for each front. Work even in patt if necessary until work meas 20 ( 21 :23: 24: 25 : 26 ) cm from start of armhole steeks. Next rnd: *Patt to mrk, remove mrk, cast off 9 sts, remove mrk; rep from * twice more. With WS facing, join 16 ( 19: 20: 22: 23: 25) sts remaining for each front to 16 ( 19: 20: 22: 23: 25) sts each side of back for shoulders using the three-needle cast-off. Leave rem 52 ( 54: 58: 60: 64: 66) sts of back on holder for neck.

MAKING UP

Steam garment lightly, flattening steeks, and following any yarn care instructio­ns on the ball band. Prepare and cut steeks: with crochet hook and yarn A work a row of double crochet (US single crochet) on either side of central stitch as follows: Insert the hook, picking up the right side of one stitch and the left side of the central stitch. Wrap the yarn around the hook and

draw through to create one loop of yarn on the hook. Wrap the yarn around the hook again to create one chain. Insert the hook through the next pair of stitches. Wrap the yarn around the hook and draw through the stitches to create a yarn loop on the hook - there are now 2 sts on the crochet hook. Wrap the yarn around the hook again and draw this yarn through both loops on the hook. Continue to the end of the steek, turn and repeat the process along the opposite side of the central stitch. Once complete you will have 2 rows of crochet side by side with a ‘ladder’ in between which you cut with sharp embroidery scissors. The crochet finish means there are no ends to sew in.

NECKBAND

Using 3mm circular needles, 100cm long, with RS facing and yarn A, pick up and knit 148 ( 152: 156: 160: 164: 166) sts from hem of right front to held back neck sts, knit across 52 ( 54: 58: 60: 64: 66) sts held for back neck, pick up and knit 148 ( 152: 156: 160: 164: 166) sts down left front to hem. 348 ( 358: 370: 380: 392: 398) sts. Working in P1, K1 rib, work in yarn A for 2 rows and yarn B for 1 row. Next row (RS): With yarn C, patt 6, *yo twice, patt 2 tog, patt 18 ( 18: 18: 20: 20: 20); rep from * four times more, rib to end. Next row (WS): With yarn B, rib to end, working double yarnovers as 1 st. Next row: With yarn A, rib to end. Cast off in rib using yarn A and 3.25mm needles.

ARMHOLE BANDS

Using 3mm circular needles, 60cm long, and with RS facing, slip first 6 ( 7: 9: 10: 12: 14) sts from underarm holder to needle, slm, join yarn B and K6 ( 7: 9: 10: 12: 14), pick up and knit 55 ( 59: 63: 67: 71: 75) sts to shoulder seam, pick up and knit 55 ( 59: 63: 67: 71: 75) sts to holder, K6 ( 7: 9: 10: 12: 14) to centre of underarm. Join to work in the rnd. 122 ( 132: 144: 154: 166: 178) sts. Change to yarn B and work in K1, P1 rib for 2 rnds. Change to yarn C and work 1 rnd in rib. Change to yarn B and work 2 rnds in rib. Change to yarn A and work 1 rnd in rib. Cast off in rib using 3.25mm needles and yarn A. Repeat for other armhole.

FINISHING

Weave in ends. Slip stitch steeks into place with yarn D, catching sts into yarn floats. To reinforce neck: With WS facing, crochet hook and yarn F, slip stitch across back neck just below the rib band, working 1 st for every neck st.

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Button bands are worked in a three-colour rib

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