Cabled toe-up socks
Slip all sts as if to purl with the yarn held to the wrong side (carried across the inside of the sock), unless instructed otherwise. The cables of the first sock are crossed as shown in the charts. To make the second sock a mirror image of the first, reverse the direction of the cable crossings as described in instructions for the second sock. You may also work both socks the same, or mirror some sections and not others, if desired.
FIRST SOCK TOE
Using 2.5mm needles and Judy’s Magic Cast-On, cast on 24 sts for both sizes: 12 sts each on two needles. Note: for guidance on this cast-on method, see http://bit.ly/judymagicco Pm and join for working in the rnd. Rnd begins at start of instep sts. Beginning as indicated for your size, work Rnd 3 ( 1) to Rnd 21 of Toe chart. 60 ( 64) sts total; 30 ( 32) sts each for instep and sole; 19 ( 21) chart rnds completed; toe meas about 4 ( 5) cm from cast-on.
Next rnd: Work Rnd 1 of Instep and Front Leg Chart over 30 ( 32) sts, then work sole sts as K1tbl, K28 ( 30), K1tbl. nd Working sole sts as they appear (knit the knits and work the first and last sole tbl), cont in patt until piece meas 12cm from cast-on for both sizes. Make a note of the last chart rnd completed so you can work the second sock to match.
Note: As you work the gusset increases, redistribute the sts as necessary to avoid having too many sts on one needle. Slip all markers as you come to them. Next rnd: M1R (counts as Rnd 1 of Left Gusset chart), pm, work 30 ( 32) instep sts as est, pm, M1L (counts as Rnd 1 of Right Gusset chart), work 30 ( 32) sole sts as est. 2 sts inc’d on top of foot. Next rnd: Pm, work Rnd 2 of Left Gusset chart over 1 st, slm, work 30 ( 32) instep sts as est, slm, work Rnd 2 of Right Gusset chart over 1 st, pm, work 30 ( 32) sole sts as set. Keeping in patts as set, work until Rnd 32 ( 34) of gusset charts has been completed. 92 ( 98) sts total; 30 ( 32) instep sts, 30 ( 32) sole sts, 16 ( 17) sts each gusset; piece meas 19 ( 19 ) cm from cast-on.
Set-up: Work Rnd 33 ( 35) of Left Gusset chart, slm, work 30 ( 32) instep sts as set, slm, work Rnd 33 ( 35) of Right Gusset Chart, then stop. Make a note of the instep chart rnd just completed. The heel turn is worked back and forth in rows on the 30 ( 32) sole sts; the instep and gusset sts will be worked later. Use short rows to shape the heel cup as foll: Short row 1 (RS): K1tbl, K27 ( 29), wrap next st and turn work (w&t). Short row 2 (WS): P26 ( 28), w&t. 1 unworked st at each end of row. Short row 3: K25 ( 27), w&t. Short row 4: P24 ( 26), w&t. Short row 5: K23 ( 25), w&t. Short row 6: P22 ( 24), w&t. Short row 7: K21 ( 23), w&t. Short row 8: P20 ( 22), w&t. Short row 9: K19 ( 21), w&t. Short row 10: P18 ( 20), w&t. Short row 11: K17 ( 19), w&t. Short row 12: P16 ( 18), w&t. Short row 13: K15 ( 17), w&t. Short row 14: P14 ( 16), w&t. Short row 15: K13 ( 15), w&t. Short row 16: P12 ( 14), w&t. 1 unworked st and 8 wrapped sts at each end of row; 12 ( 14) sts worked in centre. Size M only Short row 17: K13, w&t. Short row 18: P12, w&t. 1 unworked st and 9 wrapped sts at each end of row; 12 sts worked in centre. Both sizes Next rnd: K12, work 8 ( 9) wrapped sts tog with their wraps, K1tbl, slm, work 16 ( 17) left gusset sts as they appear, slm, work 30 ( 32) instep sts as set, slm, work 16 ( 17)
right gusset sts as they appear, slm, K1tbl, work 8 ( 9) wrapped sts tog with their wraps, ending at start of 12 centre heel sts. Make a note of the instep chart rnd just completed. Change to DPNs if you’re not using them already. Place the 30 ( 32) instep sts on two DPNs or a stitch holder. With RS facing, place 16 ( 17) right gusset sts and first 9 ( 10) heel sts on one DPN, then place rem 21 ( 22) heel sts and 16 ( 17) left gusset sts on a second DPN. 25 ( 27) sts on first DPN; 37 ( 39) sts on second DPN, with working yarn attached to start of second DPN; 62 ( 66) total heel and gusset sts.
Note: Heel flap is worked back and forth in short rows on the centre-heel sts while the gusset stitches are decreased at each side. Do not wrap any sts when turning. Short row 1 (RS): Beg at start of second DPN where working yarn is attached, work Short row 1 of Heel and Back Leg Chart as K19 ( 20), then work pink-shaded dec symbol as SSSK, turn work. 2 left gusset sts dec’d. Short row 2 (WS): Work Row 2 of Chart over 29 ( 31) sts, then work pink-shaded dec symbol as P3tog, turn work. 2 right gusset sts dec’d. Short row 3: Work Row 3 of Chart over 29 ( 31) sts, then work pink-shaded dec symbol as SSK ( SSSK), turn work. 1( 2) left gusset sts dec’d. Short row 4: Work Row 4 of Chart over 29 ( 31) sts, then work pink-shaded dec symbol as P2tog ( P3tog), turn work. 1( 2) right gusset sts dec’d. Short rows 5–24: Cont in Chart patt, dec 1 gusset st at end of every row by working last yellow-shaded chart st tog with 1 gusset st as indicated on chart. 36 ( 38) sts rem; 30 nd( 32) heel flap sts; 3 gusset sts at each side.
Resume working in the rnd for the ankle, pm for new beg of rnd at start of back leg sts. Rnd 25: Work Rnd 25 of Heel and Back Leg Chart to last 4 heel and gusset sts, K2tog (last heel st tog with 1 gusset st), work rem 2 gusset sts as K1, P1, work 30 ( 32) front leg sts as set. 1 left gusset st dec’d. Rnd 26: Work first 4 sts from Rnd 26 of Heel and Back Leg Chart as P1, K1, SSK (last gusset st tog with 1 heel st), work to end of Rnd 26, work 30 ( 32) front leg sts as set. 1 right gusset st dec’d; 2 gusset sts rem on each side of heel flap. Rnds 27–30: Cont as est, dec 1 gusset st each rnd. 60 ( 64) sts rem; 30 ( 32) heel sts; 30 ( 32) front leg sts; all gusset sts have been dec’d.
Cont as set until Rnd 53 of Heel and Back Leg Chart has been completed. From here until the end of the cuff, work the back leg sts as they appear in Rnd 54 of Heel and Back Leg Chart for back rib patt. Cont front leg sts in patt as set until Rnd 116 of Instep and Front Leg Chart has been completed.
Working back leg sts in est rib, work the front leg sts as folls: Row 1: K0 ( 2), (P1, K2) 2 ( 3) times, (P2, K2) 5( 3) times, (P1, K2) 1 ( 3) times, P1 ( 0). Rep Row 1 until cuff meas 5cm, or until leg is desired length. Use Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off to cast off all sts. Note: for guidance on this cast-off method, see our Masterclass in Issue 74, or online at https://bit.ly/jenyssbo Weave in loose ends. Block lightly under a damp cloth, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band.
The second sock is worked the same as the first sock except that the centre cables in some charts (see list below) are crossed in the opposite direction, in which the stitches on the cable needle are held on the opposite side of the work (in front instead of in back and vice versa). You may find it helpful to photocopy the charts and highlight the cables that should be worked differently. The gusset charts are worked the same for both socks because they are already mirror images of each other. Toe chart: Rnd 7. Instep and Front Leg Chart: Rnds 2, 6, 18, 22, 26, 50, 74, 78, 82, 94, 98, and 114. Heel and Back Leg Chart: Rows 9 and 17; Rnds 29, 37, and 49. Note: In the second sock shown in the photographs, the cables are mirrored in the Toe chart and the Heel and Back Leg chart; however, for the Instep and Front Leg chart, they are only mirrored up to and including Rnd 26.