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Ca­bled toe-up socks

The Knitter - - Content - Marjan Hammink

PAT­TERN NOTES

Slip all sts as if to purl with the yarn held to the wrong side (car­ried across the in­side of the sock), un­less in­structed oth­er­wise. The ca­bles of the first sock are crossed as shown in the charts. To make the sec­ond sock a mir­ror im­age of the first, re­verse the di­rec­tion of the ca­ble cross­ings as de­scribed in in­struc­tions for the sec­ond sock. You may also work both socks the same, or mir­ror some sec­tions and not oth­ers, if de­sired.

FIRST SOCK TOE

Us­ing 2.5mm nee­dles and Judy’s Magic Cast-On, cast on 24 sts for both sizes: 12 sts each on two nee­dles. Note: for guid­ance on this cast-on method, see http://bit.ly/judy­mag­icco Pm and join for work­ing in the rnd. Rnd be­gins at start of in­step sts. Be­gin­ning as in­di­cated for your size, work Rnd 3 ( 1) to Rnd 21 of Toe chart. 60 ( 64) sts to­tal; 30 ( 32) sts each for in­step and sole; 19 ( 21) chart rnds com­pleted; toe meas about 4 ( 5) cm from cast-on.

FOOT

Next rnd: Work Rnd 1 of In­step and Front Leg Chart over 30 ( 32) sts, then work sole sts as K1tbl, K28 ( 30), K1tbl. nd Work­ing sole sts as they ap­pear (knit the knits and work the first and last sole tbl), cont in patt un­til piece meas 12cm from cast-on for both sizes. Make a note of the last chart rnd com­pleted so you can work the sec­ond sock to match.

GUSSETS

Note: As you work the gus­set in­creases, re­dis­tribute the sts as nec­es­sary to avoid hav­ing too many sts on one nee­dle. Slip all mark­ers as you come to them. Next rnd: M1R (counts as Rnd 1 of Left Gus­set chart), pm, work 30 ( 32) in­step sts as est, pm, M1L (counts as Rnd 1 of Right Gus­set chart), work 30 ( 32) sole sts as est. 2 sts inc’d on top of foot. Next rnd: Pm, work Rnd 2 of Left Gus­set chart over 1 st, slm, work 30 ( 32) in­step sts as est, slm, work Rnd 2 of Right Gus­set chart over 1 st, pm, work 30 ( 32) sole sts as set. Keep­ing in patts as set, work un­til Rnd 32 ( 34) of gus­set charts has been com­pleted. 92 ( 98) sts to­tal; 30 ( 32) in­step sts, 30 ( 32) sole sts, 16 ( 17) sts each gus­set; piece meas 19 ( 19 ) cm from cast-on.

HEEL TURN

Set-up: Work Rnd 33 ( 35) of Left Gus­set chart, slm, work 30 ( 32) in­step sts as set, slm, work Rnd 33 ( 35) of Right Gus­set Chart, then stop. Make a note of the in­step chart rnd just com­pleted. The heel turn is worked back and forth in rows on the 30 ( 32) sole sts; the in­step and gus­set sts will be worked later. Use short rows to shape the heel cup as foll: Short row 1 (RS): K1tbl, K27 ( 29), wrap next st and turn work (w&t). Short row 2 (WS): P26 ( 28), w&t. 1 un­worked st at each end of row. Short row 3: K25 ( 27), w&t. Short row 4: P24 ( 26), w&t. Short row 5: K23 ( 25), w&t. Short row 6: P22 ( 24), w&t. Short row 7: K21 ( 23), w&t. Short row 8: P20 ( 22), w&t. Short row 9: K19 ( 21), w&t. Short row 10: P18 ( 20), w&t. Short row 11: K17 ( 19), w&t. Short row 12: P16 ( 18), w&t. Short row 13: K15 ( 17), w&t. Short row 14: P14 ( 16), w&t. Short row 15: K13 ( 15), w&t. Short row 16: P12 ( 14), w&t. 1 un­worked st and 8 wrapped sts at each end of row; 12 ( 14) sts worked in cen­tre. Size M only Short row 17: K13, w&t. Short row 18: P12, w&t. 1 un­worked st and 9 wrapped sts at each end of row; 12 sts worked in cen­tre. Both sizes Next rnd: K12, work 8 ( 9) wrapped sts tog with their wraps, K1tbl, slm, work 16 ( 17) left gus­set sts as they ap­pear, slm, work 30 ( 32) in­step sts as set, slm, work 16 ( 17)

right gus­set sts as they ap­pear, slm, K1tbl, work 8 ( 9) wrapped sts tog with their wraps, end­ing at start of 12 cen­tre heel sts. Make a note of the in­step chart rnd just com­pleted. Change to DPNs if you’re not us­ing them al­ready. Place the 30 ( 32) in­step sts on two DPNs or a stitch holder. With RS fac­ing, place 16 ( 17) right gus­set sts and first 9 ( 10) heel sts on one DPN, then place rem 21 ( 22) heel sts and 16 ( 17) left gus­set sts on a sec­ond DPN. 25 ( 27) sts on first DPN; 37 ( 39) sts on sec­ond DPN, with work­ing yarn at­tached to start of sec­ond DPN; 62 ( 66) to­tal heel and gus­set sts.

HEEL FLAP

Note: Heel flap is worked back and forth in short rows on the cen­tre-heel sts while the gus­set stitches are de­creased at each side. Do not wrap any sts when turn­ing. Short row 1 (RS): Beg at start of sec­ond DPN where work­ing yarn is at­tached, work Short row 1 of Heel and Back Leg Chart as K19 ( 20), then work pink-shaded dec sym­bol as SSSK, turn work. 2 left gus­set sts dec’d. Short row 2 (WS): Work Row 2 of Chart over 29 ( 31) sts, then work pink-shaded dec sym­bol as P3­tog, turn work. 2 right gus­set sts dec’d. Short row 3: Work Row 3 of Chart over 29 ( 31) sts, then work pink-shaded dec sym­bol as SSK ( SSSK), turn work. 1( 2) left gus­set sts dec’d. Short row 4: Work Row 4 of Chart over 29 ( 31) sts, then work pink-shaded dec sym­bol as P2­tog ( P3­tog), turn work. 1( 2) right gus­set sts dec’d. Short rows 5–24: Cont in Chart patt, dec 1 gus­set st at end of ev­ery row by work­ing last yel­low-shaded chart st tog with 1 gus­set st as in­di­cated on chart. 36 ( 38) sts rem; 30 nd( 32) heel flap sts; 3 gus­set sts at each side.

AN­KLE TRAN­SI­TION

Re­sume work­ing in the rnd for the an­kle, pm for new beg of rnd at start of back leg sts. Rnd 25: Work Rnd 25 of Heel and Back Leg Chart to last 4 heel and gus­set sts, K2­tog (last heel st tog with 1 gus­set st), work rem 2 gus­set sts as K1, P1, work 30 ( 32) front leg sts as set. 1 left gus­set st dec’d. Rnd 26: Work first 4 sts from Rnd 26 of Heel and Back Leg Chart as P1, K1, SSK (last gus­set st tog with 1 heel st), work to end of Rnd 26, work 30 ( 32) front leg sts as set. 1 right gus­set st dec’d; 2 gus­set sts rem on each side of heel flap. Rnds 27–30: Cont as est, dec 1 gus­set st each rnd. 60 ( 64) sts rem; 30 ( 32) heel sts; 30 ( 32) front leg sts; all gus­set sts have been dec’d.

LEG

Cont as set un­til Rnd 53 of Heel and Back Leg Chart has been com­pleted. From here un­til the end of the cuff, work the back leg sts as they ap­pear in Rnd 54 of Heel and Back Leg Chart for back rib patt. Cont front leg sts in patt as set un­til Rnd 116 of In­step and Front Leg Chart has been com­pleted.

CUFF

Work­ing back leg sts in est rib, work the front leg sts as folls: Row 1: K0 ( 2), (P1, K2) 2 ( 3) times, (P2, K2) 5( 3) times, (P1, K2) 1 ( 3) times, P1 ( 0). Rep Row 1 un­til cuff meas 5cm, or un­til leg is de­sired length. Use Jeny’s Sur­pris­ingly Stretchy Bind-Off to cast off all sts. Note: for guid­ance on this cast-off method, see our Master­class in Is­sue 74, or on­line at https://bit.ly/jenyssbo Weave in loose ends. Block lightly un­der a damp cloth, fol­low­ing any yarn care in­struc­tions on the ball band.

SEC­OND SOCK

The sec­ond sock is worked the same as the first sock ex­cept that the cen­tre ca­bles in some charts (see list be­low) are crossed in the op­po­site di­rec­tion, in which the stitches on the ca­ble nee­dle are held on the op­po­site side of the work (in front in­stead of in back and vice versa). You may find it help­ful to pho­to­copy the charts and high­light the ca­bles that should be worked dif­fer­ently. The gus­set charts are worked the same for both socks be­cause they are al­ready mir­ror images of each other. Toe chart: Rnd 7. In­step and Front Leg Chart: Rnds 2, 6, 18, 22, 26, 50, 74, 78, 82, 94, 98, and 114. Heel and Back Leg Chart: Rows 9 and 17; Rnds 29, 37, and 49. Note: In the sec­ond sock shown in the photographs, the ca­bles are mir­rored in the Toe chart and the Heel and Back Leg chart; how­ever, for the In­step and Front Leg chart, they are only mir­rored up to and in­clud­ing Rnd 26.

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