Leaves in the Water

A modern leaf motif stands out beautifully against a gradient background on this smart cardigan

Intricate Fair Isle cardigan

PATTERN NOTES

The sweater is worked bottom-up in the round. The body and sleeves are worked separately and then joined to work the raglan yoke. Steek stitches are worked at the centre front throughout the body and yoke. Because V-neck shaping is worked with the steek, the neck hole will be very small before cutting. After completing the yoke, the steek is reinforced and cut to open the centre front, then stitches are picked up for ribbed band. Underarms are joined using the three-needle cast-off.

SLEEVES (make 2) CUFF

Using 3.5mm needles and yarn A, cast on 60 ( 64: 68: 72: 76: 76). Pm and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist sts. Rnd 1: *K2, P2; rep from * to end. Rep Rnd 1 until ribbed cuff meas 5 ( 5 :6 : 7: 8 : 9) cm from cast-on. At end of last round, M1. 61 ( 65: 69: 73: 77: 77) sts.

COLOURWORK SLEEVE

Change to 4mm needles and join in yarn B. Note: Sleeve shaping and charted colourwork are worked at the same time. Read following sections before proceeding. Colourwork Chart During the first round of colourwork, work to last stitch in colourwork pattern, then M1 in colour pattern. This additional stitch is accounted for and allows for pattern symmetry. 62 ( 66: 70: 74: 78: 78) sts. Throughout Sleeve, end every round with a yarn A stitch which is not shown on the chart. This stitch will create a ‘seam’ line all the way up the inside of the Sleeve. Rnd 1: Beg with st 12 ( 10: 8: 12: 10: 10) of Chart, work to end of Chart, then work 12-st pattern repeat 5 ( 5: 5: 6: 6: 6) times across round, then work - ( 2: 4:-:2: 2) sts in Chart, ending Chart on st 12 ( 2: 4: 12: 2: 2), K1A. Cont as set, work to end of Round 9( 9: 7: 5: 3: 3).

SHAPE SLEEVE

Note: When working increases, use colour corresponding to the new stitch created, to keep patt correct. Inc rnd: LIR, work in chart to last st, LIL, K1A. 2 sts inc’d. Work Increase Rnd every 10th ( 10th: 8th: 6th: 4th: 4th) rnd 9 ( 9: 13: 15: 15: 27) more times, then every 12th ( 12th:–:8th: 6th:–) rnd 1 ( 1:–:2: 8:–) times. 84 ( 88: 98: 110: 126: 134) sts. Work 13 more rnds without shaping, ending after 125 rnds of Chart. Next round: Work in pattern to last 2 sts, s2kpo in yarn B with the last 2 sts of the rnd and the first st of the next rnd (removing marker). 2 sts dec’d. 82 ( 86: 96: 108: 124: 132) sts. Place the last 8 ( 8: 9: 9: 11: 11) sts worked and the next 7 ( 7: 8: 8: 10: 10) sts of the round on waste yarn for each underarm. 15 ( 15: 17: 17: 21: 21) total sts on waste yarn for underarms. Set sleeves aside and work body.

BODY HEM

Using 3.5mm circular needles, 80cm long,

and yarn A, cast on 239 ( 271: 299: 331: 359: 391). Pm and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist sts. Rnd 1: *K2, P2; rep from * to last 7 sts, K2, pm, K5 (steek sts). Repeat Rnd 1 (omitting placing marker as it’s already in place) until ribbed hem meas 4 cm from cast-on.

COLOURWORK BODY

Change to 4mm circular needles, 80cm long, and join in yarn B. During the first round of colourwork, M1 at about centre back in colourwork pattern. This additional stitch is accounted for on chart and allows for pattern symmetry. 240 ( 272: 300: 332: 360: 392) sts. Rnd 1: Beg with st 9 ( 11: 9: 11: 9: 11) of Chart, work to end of Chart, then work 12-st pattern repeat 19 ( 22: 24: 27: 29: 32) times across round, then work 3 ( 1: 3: 1: 3: 1) sts in Chart, ending Chart on st 3 ( 1: 3: 1: 3: 1), then working 5-st steek chart. Cont as set until you have worked rnds 1–36 of chart 3 times in total. Body meas about 37 cm from cast-on.

YOKE

JOIN BODY AND SLEEVES Change to 100cm or 120cm circular needles Joining rnd: K1 in A. Beg with st 10 ( 12: 10: 12: 10: 12) of Chart, work 46 ( 54: 60: 68: 73: 81) sts, ending with st 7 ( 5: 9: 7: 10: 8) of Chart, K1 in A, pm (Right Front Raglan), place next 15 ( 15: 17: 17: 21: 21) body sts on waste yarn for underarm. From first sleeve, K2 in A. Beg at st 11 ( 9: 5: 5: 11: 7) of Chart, work 63 ( 67: 75: 87: 99: 107) sts, ending at st 1 ( 3: 7: 7: 1: 5) of Chart, K2 in A, pm (Right Back Raglan). Working on body stitches, K1 in A. Beg at st 1 ( 11: 5: 3: 10: 8) of Chart, work 107 ( 123: 135: 151: 161: 177) sts, ending at st 11 ( 1: 7: 9: 2: 4) of Chart, K1 in A, pm (Left Back Raglan), place next 15 ( 15: 17: 17: 21: 21) body sts on waste yarn for underarm. From second sleeve, K2 in A. Beg at st 11 ( 9: 5: 5: 11: 7) of Chart, work 63 ( 67: 75: 87: 99: 107) sts, ending at st 1 ( 3: 7: 7: 1: 5) of Chart, K2 in A, pm (Left Front Raglan). Working on Left Front, K1 in A. Beg at st 5 ( 7: 3: 5: 2:4) of Chart, work 46 ( 54: 60: 68: 73: 81) sts, ending at st 2 ( 12: 2: 12: 2: 12) of Chart, K1 in A. Slm, work 5-st steek panel. 344 ( 384: 424: 480: 524: 572) sts; 48 ( 56: 62: 70: 75: 83) sts each Front, 67 ( 71: 79: 91: 103: 111) sts each Sleeve, 109 ( 125: 137: 153: 163: 179) sts Back, and 5 steek sts. After joining, place a removable marker in the first stitch of the round. This marks the location of the top button. Leave it in place for the remainder of the project.

SHAPE YOKE

Note: Yoke shaping and charts are worked AT THE SAME TIME. Read through the next section before proceeding. Neckline, Front and Back Armholes, and Sleeve Caps are shaped at different rates. The stitches directly next to stitch

markers are always worked in yarn A, including decreases, and these stitches are not shown on the chart. On Sleeve Caps, the first 2 stitches after the marker and the last 2 stitches before the marker are always worked in yarn A, and these are not shown on the chart. When shaping is necessary on the Fronts (neckline and armholes) and Back (armholes), SSK in yarn A the 2 sts directly after the marker and K2tog in yarn A the last 2 stitches before the marker. When shaping is necessary on the sleeves, (K1 in A, SSK in A) after the marker, and (K2tog in A, K1 in A) before the marker. With this method the raglan decreases are always separated by 1 yarn A stitch. V-neck shaping: Decrease every 4th ( 4th: 4th: 4th: 2nd: 2nd) rnd 13 ( 14: 15: 19: 2: 5) times, then every 6th ( 6th: 6th:–:4th:4th) rnd 2 ( 2: 2:–:19: 18) times. 15 ( 16: 17: 19: 21: 23) total neckline decrease rnds worked.

FRONTS AND BACK ARMHOLE SHAPING

Decrease every rnd 0 ( 2: 5: 9: 10: 15) times, then every other rnd 13 ( 32 ( 31: 29: 30: 26) times, then every 4th rnd 3 ( 0: 0: 0: 0: 0) times, then every other rnd 13 ( 0: 0: 0: 0: 0) times, then every rnd 0 ( 2: 5: 9: 10: 15) times. 29 ( 36: 41: 47: 50: 56) total decrease rnds worked.

SLEEVE CAP SHAPING

Decrease every rnd 0 ( 0: 0: 0: 3: 6) times, then every other rnd 9 ( 10: 13: 37: 37: 35) times, then every 4th rnd 7 ( 7: 5: 0: 0: 0) times, then every other rnd 9 ( 10: 13: 0: 0: 0) times, then every rnd 0 ( 0: 0: 0: 3: 6) times. 25 ( 27: 31: 37: 43: 47) total sleeve decrease rnds worked. After all shaping is complete, 98 ( 100: 102: 106: 110: 114) sts remain; 4 each Front, 17 each Sleeve, 51 ( 53: 55: 59: 63: 67) Back, and 5 steek sts. Cast-off rnd: With yarn A, K1, sk2po, pass knit st over decreased st, thus casting it off; cast off in this manner to 4 sts before last mrk (before steek panel), K3tog, pass st over to cast off, cast off to end.

FINISHING CUT STEEK

Reinforce steek using crochet or machine sewing. Cut steek to open cardigan front. For more guidance on steeking, see our Masterclass in Issue 116 or online at: www.theyarnloop.com/article/top-tipsfor-steek-success

RIBBED BAND

Note: Pick up stitches for band by inserting needle between a leg of a body stitch and a leg of a steek stitch, then drawing yarn through. This will cause the steek stitches to naturally fold to the inside of the sweater and not be visible from the RS. Using 3.5mm circular needles, 100cm or 120cm long, and yarn A, beg at bottom of Right Front (RS facing), pick up a multiple 64 of 4 + 2 sts from bottom Right Front along Right V-Neck shaping, across Back sts, down Left V-Neck shaping, and down Left Front. Pick-up rate is about 2 sts for every 3 rows along Hems, 3 sts for every 4 rows along vertical colourwork sections (Fronts), and 1 st for every cast-off stitch (along Back Neckline). Ribbing row 1 (WS): *P2, K2; rep from * to last 2 sts, P2. Ribbing row 2: *K2, P2; rep from * to last 2 sts, K2. Repeat Rows 1–2 once more.

BUTTONHOLE BAND

Before working next row, place removable stitch markers on needle to mark where buttonholes will be worked. Place removable markers on Right Front, 8 sts from beg of row, and adjacent to the marker that was placed after the Body/Sleeves joining round. Place another marker at the halfway point between these markers, then additional markers evenly spaced between the markers present. Five markers in place in total. Buttonhole row (WS): *Work in established 2x2 rib pattern to mrk, remove mrk, Sl 2 pwise wyib, pass first st over 2nd st, (Sl 1 pwise, psso) twice, slip st from right needle back to left needle, turn, bring yarn to back and cast on 4 sts using the cable cast-on, turn, bring yarn to back, Sl 1 pwise, pass last cast-on st over slipped st; rep from * for each buttonhole, work in pattern to end. Work Ribbing Row 2. Work Ribbing Rows 1–2 once more, then work Ribbing Row 1 once more. Cast off all sts in pattern.

FINAL FINISHING

Turn sweater inside out and join underarm stitches using the three-needle bind-off. Use yarn ends to close any holes at edges of underarms. Weave in ends and block to measurements shown on blocking diagram, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band. Pin the bottom edges of the bands to help them relax and line up with the hem. Once sweater is dry, line up front bands and place five removable markers on the left band where the buttonholes fall. Sew buttons onto left front band, using the removable markers as guides for placement.