MASTERCLASS
Whether you’re felting knits by hand or in the machine, follow Faye Perriam-Reed’s advice to get perfect results every time
Our guide to felting by hand and using a washing machine
FULLING !OR FELTING" is the technique of turning natural fibres into a thick fabric, by exposing them to heat, moisture and agitation. This causes the fibres to mat together and shrink, creating a dense, wind- and water-resistant fabric, making it perfect for winter woollens or bags.
The difference between felting and fulling is that felting is worked with unspun roving or fleece, which will usually be carded and combed first, while fulling is worked with a piece of knitted or woven fabric. Both produce similar results and tend to be widely known as felting, which is the term used by most designers and publications, ourselves included. Throughout this masterclass we use both terms; however, they refer to the latter process.
When considering a fibre to felt or full, it is important to choose 100% animal fibre, usually sheep’s wool as it is easily available and affordable. You can also felt with other fibres such as alpaca, camel or goat; they tend to cost a bit more, however, and produce slightly different results. Superwash wool will not felt, because it has been treated so that it can be washed in a machine without shrinking.
You’ll also want to think about what patterns you are knitting. The fulling process will hide any stitch patterns such as cables or lace, so really you’ll want to stick to stocking stitch or garter stitch unless you’re only planning on felting the piece very slightly. Colour combinations can look fantastic when fulled, though, so working a stripe or Fair isle pattern is worth experimenting with. Make sure you knit a larger swatch than usual as you’ll want to allow for shrinkage.
Needle size is a big factor, and I would recommend swatching in a few different gauges to see the different effects this can have on the drape of the finished piece. A looser-knit fabric will usually full more than a tighter one, as there is more room for the fibres to move between the stitches.
If you hold a fully felted piece up to the
light, you shouldn’t be able to see through the stitches. The fibres will be very matted together, and you will be able to cut through the piece without it unravelling.
There are a few different methods of fulling which we will look at here. The two most common methods are to use a basin of lukewarm water and to agitate by hand, or to use a washing machine to do the work for you. This tends to work better if you have a machine that you can open and get your piece out to check every few minutes, rather than a front-loading machine that wants you to commit to a full cycle.
HAND FULLING
This is a more precise way to full your knitted piece, and the traditional method used. It allows you to constantly check in with your work and stop when you feel the piece is fulled enough. It can also be very hard work!
Depending on the size of the piece you are felting, you’ll want to consider where the best place to work is. If you are felting with a large piece, it will be less messy to work outside or be somewhere with a drain. Sinks and baths are also a good option - all that agitation can cause a fair bit of splashing!
Before you begin, write down your starting time, the number of stitches and rows in the sample, and the measurements of your swatch. You’ll need a piece of fabric or some netting a little larger than your swatch, a jug of warm soapy water, and a pair of rubber gloves.
1 Lay the swatch onto the netting or fabric and make sure it is the correct shape and dimensions you want. Pour on hot soapy water.
2 Roll the fabric up into a sausage shape and tie it with a piece of string or acrylic yarn.
3 Pour more soapy water on to the fabric and roll it back and forth, putting all your weight onto it and varying where you apply the pressure.
4 Unroll the fabric every 4 to 5 minutes to check your work, then re-roll the fabric at a 90 degree angle. The fibres will felt in the direction you are rolling, so it is important to change the direction as you go.
5 Keep opening the bundle and checking everything is even. If you find certain areas are not felting as much as you’d like, you can give them more attention by rubbing them between your thumbs and forefingers in a circular motion until they ‘catch up’ with the rest of the piece.
6 When the piece is fulled to your satisfaction, pour on some hot water and leave the piece while you clean up. Rinse the piece with cold water, then squeeze out any excess moisture and roll up in a towel. Block the piece out to measurements and leave to dry.
FULLING IN A WASHING MACHINE
If you decide to use a washing machine, I recommend first knitting a few identical swatches so you can compare how they shrink. You’ll also want to play with gauge as mentioned above, as this will also affect how the piece ends up. Again, make a note of the tension and size of the swatches before fulling. Using different colours for your swatches can help to differentiate which is which after they have been fully felted. – Pop your swatch in the washing machine along with a pair of old jeans or a few tennis balls, which will aid agitation. – Unless you have a top-loading matching that you can stop and check every five minutes, you’ll want to set the wash cycle to the shortest there is, and maybe stick to 30°C or 40°C for the first experiment. – Check the swatch once the cycle has finished, and take note of the size and density of the fabric. If you feel it needs to felt more, try a longer cycle or try turning up the heat. Keep experimenting with the different swatches until you hit the correct timing and temperature.
AFTERCARE
Note that it is still possible to shrink your piece further in a later wash, so once you are happy with the size and shape, you’ll want to wash it as if it were any other hand-knit – on a cold wash either by hand or in the machine. Dry flat after rinsing and squeezing out any excess moisture in a towel. Use moth balls if you are planning on storing the item over the warmer months, as the dense fabric can provide a cosy and enticing home for beasties!