MARY HENDERSON
Exquisitely feminine, this Fair Isle cardigan has neat tailored details
Fair Isle cardigan with corrugated rib details
PATTERN NOTES
The body is knitted in one piece in rows following the Main Chart: odd-numbered rows are knitted, even-numbered rows are purled. The paler yarn is always the background colour; the motifs are always worked in the darker colour. Carry yarns in the same hand throughout to prevent variations in colour dominance. K1A: Knit 1 with yarn A. P1A: Purl 1 with yarn A. K1B: Knit 1 with yarn B. P1B: Purl 1 with yarn B.
BODY
Using 3mm circular needles and yarn A, and the cable cast-on method, cast on 254 ( 270: 294: 310: 326: 342: 358: 374: 390: 406) sts.
BEGIN CHARTS
Work rows 1-17 of Corrugated Rib Chart. Row 18: Following row 18 of chart, place markers as foll: patt 65 ( 69: 77: 81: 85: 89: 93: 97: 101: 105), pm, patt 124 ( 132: 140: 148: 156: 164: 172: 180: 188: 196), pm, patt 65 ( 69: 77: 81: 85: 89: 93: 97: 101: 105) to end. Next row (RS): Work sts 1-3 of Main Chart once, then, starting with stitch 24 ( 4: 4: 20: 24: 4: 20: 24: 4: 20), work Main Chart patt repeat to last 3 sts, ending after stitch 7( 27: 27: 11: 7: 27: 11: 7: 27: 11) of chart, then work sts 28-30 of main chart once. This row sets the patt, with Main Chart patt reps and 3 sts in stripe at each end. Work even in patt until all 22 rows of Main Chart have been worked a total of 3 times, then work rows 1-15 once more.
SHAPE ARMHOLES
Keeping patt correct, shape armholes as foll: Next row (WS): Patt 59 ( 62: 69: 72: 75: 78: 81: 83: 86: 89), cast off 12 ( 14: 16: 18: 20: 22: 24: 28: 30: 32) sts, patt until there are 112 ( 118: 124: 130: 136: 142: 148: 152: 158: 164) sts on needle after last cast-off, cast off 12 ( 14: 16: 18: 20: 22: 24: 28: 30: 32) sts, patt to end. Place 59 ( 62: 69: 72: 75: 78: 81: 83: 86: 89) sts for each front on separate holders. Break yarns and attach to 112 ( 118: 124: 130: 136: 142: 148: 152: 158: 164) sts held for back with RS facing.
BACK
Working in patt, dec 1 st at each end of row on next row, then every foll RS row 4 ( 6: 8: 9: 11: 13: 15: 15: 17: 19) more times. 102 ( 104: 106: 110: 112: 114: 116: 120: 122: 124) sts. Work even in patt until piece meas 13 ( 14: 14 : 15: 16: 16 :17: 18: 18 : 19) cm from underarm, ending after a WS row.
SHAPE BACK NECK AND SHOULDERS
Next row (RS): Patt 32 ( 33: 33: 34: 35: 35: 36: 37: 38: 39), K2tog, K1, cast off 32 ( 32: 34: 36: 36: 38: 38: 40: 40: 40) sts (leaving 1 st on RH needle after cast-off), SSK, patt to end. Place 34 ( 35: 35: 36: 37: 37: 38: 39: 40: 41) sts for right shoulder on holder. Continue on these 34 ( 35: 35: 36: 37: 37: 38: 39: 40: 41) sts for left shoulder.
LEFT BACK NECK AND SHOULDER
Cont in patt, dec 1 st at neck edge of every row 7 times. 27 ( 28: 28: 29: 30: 30: 31: 32: 33: 34) sts. Next row (WS): *P1A, P1B; rep from * to last 1 ( 0: 0: 1: 0: 0: 1: 0: 1: 0) st, using A, P1 ( 0: 0: 1: 0: 0: 1: 0: 1: 0). Next row (RS): Using A, P1 ( 0: 0: 1: 0: 0: 1: 0: 1: 0), *K1B, P1A; rep from * to end.
Rep WS row once more. Cut yarn and leave sts on holder.
RIGHT BACK NECK AND SHOULDER
Attach yarn to 34 ( 35: 35: 36: 37: 37: 38: 39: 40: 41) sts held for right shoulder with WS facing and work as for Left Back Neck and Shoulder, reversing shapings.
RIGHT FRONT
Attach yarn to sts held for Right Front with RS facing. Keeping in patt, dec 1 st at armhole edge of next row, then every foll RS row 4 ( 6: 8: 9: 11: 13: 15: 15: 17: 19) more times. 54 ( 55: 60: 62: 63: 64: 65: 67: 68: 69) sts. Work even in patt for 15 ( 11: 7: 15: 11: 7: 3: 3: 7: 3) rows. Next row (RS): Patt 15 ( 15: 17: 17: 17: 17: 17: 19: 19: 19) and place these sts on holder, K1, SSK, patt to end. 38 ( 39: 42: 44: 45: 46: 47: 47: 48: 49) sts. Dec 1 st at neck edge of every row 11 ( 11: 14: 15: 15: 16: 16: 15: 15: 15) times. 27 ( 28: 28: 29: 30: 30: 31: 32: 33: 34) sts. Work even in patt until Front meas 3 rows shorter than Back, ending after same row of chart. Next row (WS): *P1 A, P1B; rep from * to last 1 ( 0: 0: 1: 0: 0: 1: 0: 1: 0) st, using A, P1 ( 0: 0: 1: 0: 0: 1: 0: 1: 0). Next row (RS): Using A, P1 ( 0: 0: 1: 0: 0: 1: 0: 1: 0), *K1B, P1A; rep from * to end. Rep WS row once more. Cut yarn and leave sts on holder.
LEFT FRONT
Attach yarn to sts held for Left Front with RS facing. Cont as for Right Front, reversing all shapings. Join shoulders on WS using three-needle cast-off.
SLEEVES
(make 2) Using 3mm DPNs or short circular needles and yarn A, cast on 60 ( 60: 60: 66: 66: 66: 66: 66: 72: 72) sts. Pm and join to work in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts. Rnd 1: *K1A, K1B; rep from * around. Rnds 2-15: *K1A, P1B; rep from * around. Next rnd: Using A, *KFB, K1; rep from * to end. 90 ( 90: 90: 99: 99: 99: 99: 99: 108: 108) sts. Next rnd: Using B, *K14 ( 14: 14: 16: 12: 8: 6: 4: 5: 4), KFB; rep from * to last 0 ( 0: 0: 14: 8: 0: 8: 4: 0: 8) sts, knit to end. 96 ( 96: 96: 104: 106: 110: 112: 118: 126: 128) sts.
BEGIN CHART
Rnd 1: Starting with stitch 1 ( 1: 1: 21: 20: 18: 17: 14: 22: 21) of Sleeve Chart, work row 1 of chart to end of row, ending with stitch 24 ( 24: 24: 4: 5: 7: 8: 11: 3: 4) of chart. Cont in Sleeve Chart patt as set by this rnd until all 22 rnds of chart have been worked a total of three times, then rep rnds 1-15 once. Sleeve meas approx. 30cm from cast-on edge.
SHAPE SLEEVE HEAD
Next row (RS): Cast off 6 ( 7: 8: 9: 10: 11: 12: 14: 15: 16) sts, patt to end of rnd, turn. 90 ( 89: 88: 95: 96: 99: 100: 104: 111: 112) sts. Next row (WS): Cast off 6 ( 7: 8: 9: 10: 11: 12: 14: 15: 16) sts, patt to end of rnd, turn. 84 ( 82: 80: 86: 86: 88: 88: 90: 96: 96) sts. Work even in patt as set for 54 ( 56: 58: 60: 62: 64: 66: 68: 70: 72) rows. Next row (RS): *K1A, K1B; rep from * to end. Next row (WS): *P1B, K1A; rep from * to end. Rep these 2 rows once more. Break yarn B and cont with yarn A. Next row (RS): *S2kpo; rep from * to last 0 ( 1: 2: 2: 2: 1: 1: 0: 0: 0) sts, K0 ( 1: 2: 2: 2: 1: 1: 0: 0: 0). 28 ( 28: 28: 30: 30: 30: 30: 30: 32: 32) sts. Next row (WS): *K2tog; rep from * to end. 14 ( 14: 14: 15: 15: 15: 15: 15: 16: 16) sts. Cast off.
RIGHT FRONT BAND
Using 2.75mm needles and yarn A, and with RS facing, pick up and knit 110 ( 110: 110: 118: 118: 118: 118: 118: 126: 126) sts from cast-on edge of Right Front to neck.
Knit 1 row. Work rows 1-15 of Right Front Band Chart once, then rep rows 14-15 five more times. Cast off in yarn A, leaving a long tail. Fold work over at purl row (row 13 of chart) and slip stitch into place on WS.
LEFT FRONT BAND
Using 2.75mm circular needles and yarn A, and with RS facing, pick up and knit 110 ( 110: 110: 118: 118: 118: 118: 118: 126: 126) sts from neck edge of Left Front down to cast-on edge. Knit 1 row. Work rows 1-15 of Left Front Band Chart once, then rep rows 14-15 five more times. Cast off in yarn A, leaving a long tail. Fold work over at purl row (row 13 of chart) and slip stitch into place on WS.
NECK RIB
Using 2.75mm circular needles and yarn A, with RS facing, pick up and knit 10 sts through both layers of fabric at neck edge of right front band, K15 ( 15: 17: 17: 17: 17: 17: 19: 19: 19) from right front neck holder, pick up and knit 29 ( 31: 33: 25: 27: 29: 31: 33: 27: 29) sts to shoulder seam, 12 sts to back neck cast-off, 32 ( 32: 34: 36: 36: 38: 38: 40: 40: 40) sts along back neck, 12 sts to shoulder seam, and 29 ( 31: 33: 25: 27: 29: 31: 33: 27: 29) sts to left front neck sts on holder, K15 ( 15: 17: 17: 17: 17: 17: 19: 19: 19) from left front neck holder, pick up and knit 10 sts in both layers of fabric at neck edge of left front band. 164 ( 168: 178: 164: 168: 174: 178: 188: 176: 180) sts. Purl 1 WS row. Next row (RS): Cast off 11 sts, *K1A, K1B; rep from * to last 12 sts, K1A, cast off next 11 sts with yarn A and cut yarn A. 142 ( 146: 156: 142: 146: 152: 156: 166: 154: 158) sts. Next row (WS): Rejoin yarn A with WS facing and *P1A, K1B; rep from * to last st, P1A. Next row: *K1A, P1B; rep from * to last st, K1A. Next row: *P1A, K1B; rep from * to last st, P1A. Rep last 2 rows once more. Knit 2 rows in yarn A (turning row). Next row (RS): *K1A, K1B; rep from * to last st, K1A. Next row (WS): *P1A, P1B; rep from * to last st, P1A. Rep last 2 rows twice more. Cast off loosely with yarn A, leaving a long tail. Fold neckband over at turning row and slip stitch in place.
MAKING UP
Set in sleeves with yarn A and RS facing using mattress stitch, matching chart pattern across sleeve head and body. Ease gathered sleeve into vertical stripes on the shoulder seam. Weave in ends and gently block to measurements, following any yarn care instructions on ball band. Sew two hook-and-eye fastenings at the top of the front bands, on the inside of the bands.