Explore Jem’s pretty designs
Jem creates intricately textured socks, shawls and sweaters using her own range of hand-dyed yarns
AN AVID knitter, designer and yarn dyer, Jem Arrowsmith has been self-publishing her patterns on Ravelry.com since 2013. They are also available from her website, Under The Olive Tree Knits, which stocks her range of hand-dyed yarns, kits, needles and accessories. Jem is on a mission to promote the relaxing and therapeutic powers of knitting, and provides online video tutorials for different stitches and techniques. We chatted with Jem about her knitting life.
Who inspired you to take up knitting?
“My Mum taught me to knit when I was young, although I didn’t get much further than a skirt for my Barbie. I returned to knitting in my twenties when I picked up a copy of Debbie Stoller’s book in my local bookshop. I immediately went and purchased some yarn and needles, so that I could get started straight away!”
Do you have a favourite artist, writer, poet or musician who inspires you?
“I am drawn to the offbeat and unusual. My favourite artist is Max Ernst, an artist in the Dada and Surrealist movement. Ernst had an experimental style to creating his art, and would often take rubbings of floorboards, leaves, and even unravelled balls of string! He would then build images around what the lines suggested. I love the unpredictability of his approach.”
Which designer has most inspired you?
“There are so many talented and creative designers that it’s hard to pick just one! But someone who inspired me to take this journey is Fiona Morris. Not only does Fiona create beautiful designs, but as a tutor she also encouraged me to really push forward with my passion for designing.
“I also enjoy Stephen West’s designs. There is always an unusual and interesting element to his patterns, whether it’s in the construction, shaping or detail.”
Tell us about the colours, landscapes or architecture that inspire your design work.
“I love history, especially old abandoned buildings. I imagine their stories, and look for patterns and details in the ruins - I like the idea of creating a design inspired by something that would otherwise be forgotten about. At the moment I am working on a sock collection influenced by historical places in London, and my ‘Underneath the Arches’ shawl design was inspired by a spiral staircase in an abandoned building.”
What is your favourite knitting book?
“In terms of designing it would have to be the Barbara Walker stitch dictionaries. But for an all-round-lovely knitting book it is
The Knitter’s Knowledge by Debbie Bliss. It is beautifully illustrated and packed full of useful techniques; I will often pick it up just to flick though.”
What fibres do you love to work with?
“I usually gravitate towards a merino or Bluefaced Leicester wool. They are both so versatile and give a lovely stitch definition whether you are knitting stockinette, cables or lace. The drape you get from a BFL shawl is exquisite.”
Which design from your portfolio are you most proud of, or is most special to you?
“It would have to be my ‘What’s New Pussycat’ design. This was my first garment design, and it was such a learning curve to get it from the idea to an actual pattern. I made it for my best friend as we are both crazy cat ladies! After a lot of swatching and maths, everything clicked into place, and it was the moment I thought ‘Yes, I can actually do this!’”
Are there any techniques or styles of knitting you’d like to explore further?
“The thing that I love about knitting is that there is always something new to learn. At the top of my list is to learn how to knit faster! I’ve just signed up to Anniken Allis’s online course for continental knitting, so I’m looking forward to giving that a go.” See more of Jem’s designs, hand-dyed yarns and kits, tutorials and blog online at www.undertheolivetreeknits.com