MASTERCLASS
Rhian Drinkwater explores a selection of sock cuff techniques to try, from garter stitch to corrugated ribbing
Four decorative cuff ideas for your sock projects
WHEN YOU’RE working a top-down sock, almost the first decision you need to make is what kind of cuff to use.
This could be influenced by the design you’re planning for the rest of the sock – a colourwork pattern looks great with a corrugated rib, for example – or what properties you need from your finished leg – does it need to be very stretchy to fit over a wide instep?
The most basic sock cuff is a plain
1x1 or 2x2 rib, which are quick and simple to knit, and nice and stretchy. But what if you want something a bit more interesting to knit, or something more textured that will show off a pretty yarn? Here we’ll take a look at four different cuffs and their properties – why not try one out with your next pair of socks!
TWISTED RIB
A twisted rib cuff is the simplest variation on a plain rib. The twisted knit stitches give a stronger stitch definition to the columns, producing a more delicate knitted effect that’s great on its own and also looks striking leading into a defined stitch pattern. It’s not as stretchy as a standard rib, though.
Cast on your required number of stitches using a stretchy method. You’ll need a number divisible by the ribbing pattern you prefer – for a 1x1 rib like the one shown, you just need to cast on an even number.
Round 1: (K1tbl, P1) to end of round. For a 2x2 rib, cast on a number divisible by four.
Round 1: (K2tbl, P2) to end of round. Whichever variation you choose, repeat Round 1 for your desired length of cuff.
PICOT HEM
The hemmed picot cuff produces a doubled layer of fabric, with a pretty picot edging at the top. It feels lovely and smooth on the leg, but isn’t as elastic as a ribbed cuff. You could thread elastic through the channel of the hem, though, to give a bit more ‘cling’ to the finished cuff.
Cast on your desired number of stitches using a standard cast-on method, such as the knitted cast-on. This needs to be an even number of stitches.
Join into the round, being careful not to twist. Work in stocking stitch (knit every round) for approximately your desired length of cuff – the fabric will curl, but this is okay.
Picot round: (Yo, K2tog) to end.
Now continue in stocking stitch as before, for the same number of rounds as you worked before the picot round.
Fold over the cuff at the picot round, creating a doubled fabric with the right side on the outside of both sides.
Next round: *Knit next stitch together with the back of the corresponding cast-on stitch, joining the two layers together; rep from * to the end of the round.
Continue to work the rest of the sock as normal.
GARTER STITCH
This is the most unusual of the cuffs shown here, as it is worked sideways on, creating a thin strip of fabric to go around the leg which you then pick up stitches along to work the rest of the sock. It’s a great cuff for adding interest, and is stretchier than many decorative cuffs, although not as stretchy as a standard rib. It’s also a good cuff to try if you’re not sure how many stitches to cast on for a regular sock – work the cuff to fit around your leg, then pick up stitches around for the correct amount.
Choose a number of stitches to create the desired height of your cuff. The sample shown here uses 7 stitches. Cast on this number using a provisional cast-on in waste yarn. Knit back and forth in garter stitch to create a thin strip of fabric, until it is the right length to go around your calf. If you know the number of stitches you’ll be using for the sock circumference, you’ll need to knit double this number of rows – so for a 64-st sock, knit 128 rows.
Remove the waste yarn from your cast-on and graft the beginning and end of the cuff together.
Now pick up stitches around the bottom of your cuff, picking up one stitch for every two rows worked, and continue to knit down the leg of your sock as normal.
If you prefer, you can create a chain selvedge by slipping the last stitch of every row of the cuff, slipping as if to purl with the yarn in front. Then when you come to pick up stitches for the leg, simply pick up one stitch from each chain around.
CORRUGATED RIB
Corrugated rib is frequently seen with stranded colourwork designs, creating a multi-coloured look to the sock from the very beginning. The stranded yarn does mean that it has very little stretch compared with normal ribbing, so you may wish to cast on a couple more stitches than normal.
Cast on an even number of stitches. We recommend a two-colour cast-on, as explained in Issue 141’s Masterclass – make a slip knot with both yarns held together, then work a long-tail cast-on using the working yarn of each of the two yarns, rather than a working end and a tail end as normal. Alternate which yarn is held by the thumb and which by the finger for each cast-on stitch, rotating the yarn in the same direction each time you swap. When you’re done, slip off and undo the original slip knot, and join to work in the round as normal.
Round 1: (K1 in yarn A, P1 in yarn B) to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until you reach the desired length of cuff.