Storiesin stitches
Dario Tubiana loves to decorate his handknit designs with spectacular embroidery, and to share his experiences and expertise with other knitters
ITALIAN DESIGNER
Dario Tubiana has been a popular and prolific contributor to The Knitter since 2017, and he is well known for his creative stranded colourwork designs for men and women. Over the past few years, Dario has been exploring how the use of embroidery can enhance his handknits, and he now runs workshops and classes sharing his expertise with other knitters. We chatted with Dario to find out more about his passion for embroidering onto knitted fabric.
When did you first discover the art of embroidery?
“I studied a master’s degree in Creative Knitwear Design here in Italy. During this period, thanks to a friend of mine originally from India who could embroider really well, I became fascinated by the art of embroidery and the various combinations of stitches that can have wonderful effects.
“However, for a long time I had a fear of embroidery, mainly because I perceived it as something very technical. This fear of mine held me back a bit, until I decided to try to embroider on one of my hand-knit sweaters. Embroidering using wool made me feel that I was still in my comfort zone, and so I slowly began to study more, buying books and following embroiderers on the internet. And now here I am!”
Do you have a favourite style of embroidery or stitch you like to use?
“I have a certain liking for the French Knot. As I always say during my classes: ‘it’s a stitch that wherever you put it, it looks cool!’. It seems easy to do, but in reality it is often underestimated and it may be tricky sometimes.
“Another stitch that I find interesting, although it is very basic, is Split Stitch. I learned to do it by splitting the stitch bringing the needle up from the wrong side of the fabric. However, I have seen that many people nowadays do it as Back Stitch, thus splitting the previous stitch bringing the needle from the top (RS) to the WS. This variant - which in some ways is even a little easier to work - creates a different effect with a little more texture, and all in all I don’t mind using it, especially when I use it to fill shapes.” Which of your embroidered knitwear designs are you most proud of?
“This question is difficult. Each of my designs has its own story and creative journey. I am very fond of my bird embroideries, though - I just really like embroidering birds! I think it’s because they are very colourful, and so there are many possibilities to move between different colours and play with different shades to create an interesting texture.
“I think that ‘Adler’ is my favourite above all. It is a sweater that features the embroidered face of an eagle on the front. This project took a long time, and the study of the materials was very important to achieve the effect I wanted. It was project that I partially carried out during the various lockdowns we had here in Italy - and back then, there was no shortage of time!”
Do you have any top tips for knitters who would like to try adding embroidery to their handknits?
“I have noticed that people are a little intimidated by embroidery; they see it as something extremely complicated. Fortunately, this is not the case and it is, instead, something that can be tackled with a little patience without taking too many risks.
“What’s more, it’s an art that you can tackle without being afraid of making a mistake, because it is very easy to undo and quite easy to learn - all of my classes prove this!
“The best advice I can give is to take your time and try without fear of making a mistake. Plus, a little extra tip is to continue embroidering even when it doesn’t seem like it’s coming out the way you want it, and you feel like giving up. Often the embroidery appears incomplete and imperfect until we add a colour or a stitch that totally changes the look. So it is important to give yourself time, trust and patience and - if possible - start with something small, to quickly achieve a satisfying result!”
Can you tell us about the classes you taught at the recent Virtual Vogue
Knitting Live event?
“This year I taught several embroidery classes, including basic embroidery, embroidering on wool, geometric and 3D embroidery. My classes are open to all - it is not necessary to have previous knowledge of embroidery.
“Normally my classes come with voluminous handouts, with detailed explanations of the stitches and embroidery in general. I find that this material is an excellent support to help people create embroidery pieces independently after the class.”
You are currently a lecturer at the IED
European Institute of Design in Milan.
What are you teaching there?
“I teach knitting and embroidery techniques on wool, and this year I worked with second-year students who were almost totally unfamiliar with knitwear. My course focuses on the structure of knitted garments, and thus the study of tension, materials, techniques and constructions. We study the various processes of the realization both in the industrial field and in the hand-knitting field. In addition to this theoretical part, there is a practical part dedicated to teaching knitting and embroidery on wool.
“Knitwear is a complex field that requires experience and technique. It cannot simply be ‘designed’ as if it were fabric; it must be understood and designed, taking into account the many techniques that can be used, but also the limits it has. My task is to make my students understand how knitwear works in order to be able to design realizable garments.
“One crucial aspect of the practical teaching of knitting is to let my students, who are future fashion designers, understand the timing of the ‘handmade’. Often, students struggle to understand the difference between industrial and handmade, and believe that handmade garments can be realized in a very short time. Teaching them to knit and embroider makes them more aware of the handmade production chain.”
Do you have any plans for the rest of 2022 and beyond?
“Since the pandemic, I try not to make many plans! However, for now I am working on various knitwear projects and continuing to explore new embroidery techniques such as blackwork, and so far I am having fun with it!”
- www.ravelry.com/designers/ dario-tubiana---rossocardinale