Clash of the Tatins
I don’t know where the idea for upside-down things came from in the kitchen, but there is magic and theatre about it, inside out and upside down. I like the way you almost make something backwards and then it reveals itself at the end. You never know if you’ve fucked it up until you’ve taken it out of the oven, rested it and flipped it over.
Too much caramelisation will leave it tasting burnt – see the picture on this page, where I screwed up. There is also the risk that the apples will break down too quickly and become a puree, which is still delicious but texturally and visually a failure. Undercooked pastry is also a problem – I don’t need to explain what’s wrong with that.
The best apples for tarte Tatin are always being debated. Granny Smiths work quite well, but are quite firm and don’t soften enough. Some old-fashioned baking apples become too soft and pulpy. I’ve read recipes that use a variety of apples, both sweet and acidic, but I’ve never been so bold. The variety I’ve used is Cox’s Orange Pippin, which is a scrappy little apple you should be able to find at farmers’ markets.
A lot of people believe you should lay the sugar and then lay the apples and then turn on the pan to caramelise. I find the technique a bit risky. There’s more control in making a good even caramel and then adding the apples.
I usually add a little bit of water to my sugar when I’m making caramel, to which I add the apples and cook for a moment to get things happening. Adding the knob of butter after this stops the caramelisation and slows down the process.
You could make your own puff pastry but, if timepoor, there are some reasonable commercial varieties available. The frying pan is also important: my go-to is a heavy non-stick pan with a metal handle, so I can throw
• the whole thing in the oven.