A cut above, then rest
There is one great secret about steak. This is it: start with a great piece of meat. I will always go for something that has some dry age, which lends a more developed flavour and a slightly more tender finish.
Dry ageing basically allows moisture to evaporate from the joint and allows enzymes to start breaking down muscle fibres and connective tissue. It can be hung or placed on a rack for four to six weeks. The meat can lose up to a quarter of its weight in the process, which is why dry aged costs more.
Wet ageing is a different process, where meat is aged in a Cryovac bag for a number of weeks. There is no benefit to this. If anything, it can make the meat sour.
My preferred cut is a rib eye. I like the fact it cooks on the bone, which helps retain moisture and gives the family something to gnaw on.
The most frequent question I get from friends and diners is how to cook a piece of steak. There’s no foolproof recipe or technique. You have to be responsive to the cut, because there are so many variables – how long it’s been aged, the cut, the heat of the barbecue itself.
As a rule, salting the meat and bringing it to room temperature for an hour before cooking is a good start. I always cook on coals. When I cook the meat, I always ensure that there is an even spread of heat from the coals, with no cold spots. If you’re cooking on gas, make sure the barbecue is preheated and incredibly hot.
Turning is a contested area. It could be argued for days. I am a multiple turner. I turn the meat every two minutes or so, because I like a good even crust on the meat.
The important thing is to get to your preferred level of doneness. The French have the word “cuisson” for this, which is a nicer way of saying it.
If I want a medium-rare steak, I will cook it until it’s rare and then rest it until it cooks further. If I cook a steak for 10 minutes, I will usually rest it for a further eight to 10 minutes. It’s not a bad rule to rest for as long as you cook. I apply the same rule to roast chicken. People worry about the meat getting cold, but you can always throw it back onto the heat briefly before serving.
Everyone’s got a preferred accompaniment to meat. Mine is horseradish. I usually grate it before spiking it with mustard and whipping cream. The fresh
• horseradish gives you the heat and also the flavour.