FOOD: Grilled rib eye.

The primeval urge to cook over burning embers is a treat (when I have the time), otherwise I crank up the gas barbecue in a flash.

Serves 2

– 1 x 600-800g rib eye

An hour before you wish to cook the meat, season both sides with plenty of sea salt. Leave the steak on a dinner plate covered with plastic wrap to come to room temperature.

Meanwhile, prepare your barbecue. If you are using wood, start preparing your fire. If you are using wood or coal, ensure the flames have subsided. A bed of hot coals is the ticket.

Pat dry the steak and brush with the bare minimum of oil. Place on the hottest part of the barbecue. As the steak sputters and smokes, the outer fat may render and cause fat flares, so move the meat away from any flames. As you move the steak about, check the underside from time to time as it cooks. A dark golden crust is desirable. Once a good crust has been established, turn the meat and continue to cook until a crust forms on the other side. Once this has been achieved, turn the meat every two minutes or so until cooked to your desired doneness.

If in doubt, take it from the heat to rest for a few minutes. If it seems a little underdone for your liking, you can always cook it a little more.

Horseradish cream

– ½ a piece of fresh horseradish

– salt

– sugar

– 2 tsp Dijon mustard

– 2 tbsp cream

Peel and finely grate the horseradish until you have about two tablespoons of tightly packed horseradish.

Using a mortar and pestle, pound the horseradish with a generous pinch of salt and sugar until it becomes a paste. Add the mustard and cream and stir until combined. Transfer to a serving bowl and refrigerate until ready to serve.