TOPSY TURKEY
David Moyle on a wing recipe with some flair
Poor old turkey. The bird has been the packhorse of nondescript protein for generations. But years of genetic selection for maximum return and fast growth has rendered the turkey of the wild into what is more akin to a cephalopod. Debeaked and with breasts so big the birds can hardly walk, industrial “farmed” turkeys don’t make it beyond six months on this earth. Chickens are similarly commodified.
But that is industrial practice and thankfully there are many passionate farmers working in more humane ways. These turkey wings are from a grower in Queensland who raises the birds free range and is certified organic. Heritage breeds of turkey are of a completely different structure to the industrialised norm. These birds are more expensive, but it is the direction in which the dollars should be going.
This recipe is based on twice cooking, which is very popular in Cantonese cuisine. While not remaining completely true to a genuine master stock, this mixture can be reused. Bring the used stock to the boil and strain before storing it in the refrigerator. To reuse, simply bring the reserved stock to the boil, then refresh with aromatics and fresh water and wine before rebalancing the seasoning. I have heard of master stock lasting more than 100 years and have been privy to it lasting five years, but my nerve tends to run out after five or so uses.