FOOD: White beans with lamb ribs and green goddess sauce.
I’ve always loved cooking with dried beans. Somewhat maligned as boring and bland, they are a staple in my pantry. And while some people consider them just a filler or a vehicle for sauce and other flavours, I like to occasionally give them a turn as a hero ingredient.
My white bean of preference is the purgatory bean. I was introduced to this particular variety by winemaker friends who told the story of its origin. Otherwise known as Gradoli beans, because they are cultivated in Gradoli, Lazio, in central Italy, these beans are traditionally eaten at gatherings on Ash Wednesday. They are cooked using only water, less than enough seasoning and some olive oil, and are finished with a hard herb such as sage. When treated in this manner, the beans become creamy and are ideally served at room temperature.
For this recipe I entirely disregard restraint and throw big flavour at the beans. I treat them almost as you would when making a cassoulet, and the addition of the seaweed works so well with lamb. The green goddess sauce in this recipe is as much of a staple for me as the beans themselves. I almost always have a jar of it in the fridge as it can be added to broths or to lift and freshen pulses of any kind.
The beauty of white beans is their adaptability, so, in a recipe such as this, cannellini or navy beans will be just as effective. But if you can get your hands on the fagiolo del purgatorio di Gradoli, then please also do try cooking them with restraint in the traditional way. The simplicity is like a reset button for your palate and the subtle elements become more greatly appreciated.