The Saturday Paper

Playing a strong hand

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Sadly, most bananas at this time of year are destined for a morning smoothie. Or if they’ve been forgotten for a few days or frozen for a few months, they might turn up as the hero ingredient in one of the most-represente­d dishes of the Covid-19 lockdown: banana bread.

Bananas have held a very strong position in many cultures’ cuisines. Plantains, a starchier relative of the banana, which are thought to have originated in SouthEast Asia, are used in cooking and are central to many traditiona­l Caribbean dishes.

Through genetic selection, bananas have become the easy-eating little nutrient bombs we know today. Cooking with modern-genus bananas, such as lady fingers, can be walking a fine line. The mushy texture can be offputting if the applicatio­n or technique is not a good fit.

These lady finger bananas came from Conscious Ground Organics, located just inland from Byron Bay.

This holistic farming education facility features a section dedicated to a syntropic system, which draws on a diverse range of plants harvested at different times and for different purposes, such as for food or timber, over a short, medium and long term. Banana production can be very pesticideh­eavy, so it’s a treat to see them being grown organicall­y.

Even though the fate of these bananas was effectivel­y the same as ending up in a smoothie, I do love the final pancakes. The subtle spice and gentle sweetness makes for a lighter version of the more commonly found pancakes with banana. I can eat my version in the morning without the inevitable food coma that occurs from the regular alternativ­e.

If you are so inclined, do make your own kefir cream. The sourness is a big part of what balances the flavour of this dish. If you are pushed for time, a storebough­t

• kefir cream, or even yoghurt, will work fine.

 ??  ?? DAVID MOYLE is a chef. He is a food editor of The Saturday Paper.
DAVID MOYLE is a chef. He is a food editor of The Saturday Paper.

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