Noble peas prized

Of all the pretty green spring vegetables, it is peas that bring me the most pleasure. I find them at their most sublime when they’re small and sweet and tender, so early in the season I harvest them as soon as the little globes start forming in their pods. But as the season wears on, picking becomes less rewarding as pods that have been missed are found, only to yield their fatter, slightly mealy and not-so-sweet peas. To avoid this disappointment, I grow successive crops of peas, sowing new ones each month for the length of the season. It is also why I have written this recipe with the option of using frozen peas, which are available year round.

This classic French way of cooking peas pairs perfectly with many main course dishes, such as roast chicken, roast lamb and the like. The addition of the boudin blanc brings it to a more sophisticated level.

Boudin blanc is a traditional French sausage that is made from only white meats – chicken, pork or veal. This version uses a classic chicken mousse recipe as the filling, which is soft and rich and a delight to eat with the peas. If the process of stuffing the skins seems too arduous, there is another way that is less environmentally friendly. This involves piping the mousse onto a sheet of cling wrap and rolling it into a cylinder. The ends are then tied and the sausage poached.

In the cooler climes in which I live, I am still a few weeks away from harvesting peas, but for those who live in warmer parts, they should be ready to go. On a gardening note, I always make sure that in midwinter I sow some seeds of the wonderful lettuce Reine des Glaces. This variety gets its beautiful name from its cold-weather hardiness, since it is the “queen of the ice”. Wonderfully crisp, ice queen lettuce is perfect for early sowing and a fitting accompaniment to my favourite spring crop.