Crème brûlée at highly com­mended Ca­sual Din­ing Res­tau­rant the Bach Eatery


Time Out (Sydney) - - THIS MONTH IN SYDNEY -


Why did we choose LP’s? If you’ve been, then you’ll al­ready know. With the back­ing of Porteño’s Elvis Abra­hanow­icz and Joe Valore, head chef Luke Pow­ell is cook­ing some of the most flavour­some, hon­est and to­tally de­li­cious food in Syd­ney right now. LP’s is a big venue, full of can­teen-like tim­ber ta­bles with a wideopen kitchen where the South­ern Pride smoker, im­ported from Alamo, Ten­nessee, sits in pride of place. And boy does it pro­duce some tasty meat. Much of what you’ll eat here has had the South­ern Pride treat­ment. The one thing you have to or­der, above all else, is the beef short rib. It’s smoked for 15 hours un­til a thin, black, crackly crust de­vel­ops on the out­side, and the meat and fat within meld into some­thing so ten­der, so unc­tu­ous, you’ll never want to eat an eye fil­let again. It’s served on the bone and tastes pow­er­fully of the bon­fire, es­pe­cially when you get to those crusted bits on the out­side. Or­der it. You’ll be dream­ing about the mashed potato and gravy for many moons to come. It’s more like a Paris mash than the Aussie kind, it’s so silky and but­ter-dense. It’s topped with chicken gravy that tastes of the roast­ing pan: burnt sugar and com­plex, umami salti­ness. It looks self-con­sciously like the KFC potato and gravy, but with an in­com­pa­ra­ble ex­plo­sion of flavour. For dessert, share the mam­moth por­tion of ‘poor man’s pud­ding’, aka ‘poud­ing chômeur’– a Cana­dian con­coc­tion of sponge soaked in hot caramelised maple syrup and topped with vanilla ice cream. It comes in a pie-sized tin­foil pan, and will feed three or more. Not bad for $16. No won­der Pow­ell left the dainty pans of Tet­suya’s to take up the dy­namic, charred tones of the smoker: it’s food you’d eat ev­ery day if you could. 12-16 Chip­pen St, Chip­pen­dale 2008. 02 8399 0929. www.lp­squal­i­ Tue-Sat 5-11pm.


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