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FIREDOOR

After working at Asador Etxebarri in the Basque Country (ranked 13th best restaurant in the world), Lennox Hastie opened Firedoor, a kitchen powered by fire. And never has the method made produce more tender, fragile, and meltingly delicious. 22-33 Mary St, Surry Hills 2010. 02 8204 0800. www.firedoor.com.au. Lunch Fri noon3pm; dinner Tue-Sat 5.30-10.30pm.

ACME

This is seriously innovative food. Skip the famed baloney sandwich and try something that showcases head chef Mitch Orr’s talents more profoundly: wedges of parsnip dipped in jalapeño cream, or the pig’s head macaroni. 60 Bayswater Rd, Rushcutters Bay 2011. 02 8068 0932. www.weareacme.com. au. Tue-Sat 6-10pm; Sat noon-3pm.

LUMI

Water views, entrancing food and a degustation you can actually afford? LuMi’s got you covered. Try the soft-as-butter beef cheek served on a bed of silky parsnip purée and raw enoki mushrooms. 56 Pirrama Rd, Pyrmont 2009. 02 9571 1999. www.lumidining.com. Dinner Wed-Sat 6pm-late; lunch Sun noon-2.30pm.

NEL

The vibe is mellow in this bunker-level restaurant – think silver-tongued jazz and Mad Men style. But it’s the food that will send your heart all aflutter. 75 Wentworth Ave, Sydney 2000. 02 9212 2206. www.nelrestaurant. com.au. Lunch Thu, Fri noon-3pm; dinner Tue-Sat 6pm-late.