Darlo Coun­try Club

Time Out (Sydney) - - Food & Drink -

Get a brunch worth dress­ing up for at Dar­linghurst’s schmick cock­tail bar. By Emily Lloyd-Tait

WE CAN’T ALL be mil­lion­aires, but over the Satur­day brunch at Darlo Coun­try Club you can cer­tainly pre­tend you be­long among the high fly­ers for some­thing closer to cat­tle class prices. Of an evening this is a cock­tail party par­lour that builds to club-night vibes by the end of the week, but for the last year the DCC has also been open­ing bright and early – from 11.30am on Satur­day – to serve a $65 set brunch menu and fa­cil­i­tate a lit­tle classy day drink­ing.

It’s worth book­ing ahead be­cause peo­ple are re­ally dig­ging the AM vibes here. Hens, birthdays and dates are tak­ing up most of the horse­shoe booths and long ta­bles and peo­ple have dressed for the oc­ca­sion.

Del­i­cate, flo­ral white peach Belli­nis are served on ar­rival, or you can have your bub­bles straight or laced with OJ, fol­lowed by a palate primer of straw­ber­ries, blue­ber­ries and gra­nola soaked in acidic pas­sion fruit and topped with yo­ghurt. Next up is a plat­ter of sup­ple gravlax with dill crème fraîche, cream cheese and snow-white whipped but­ter that’s un­for­tu­nately rock hard out of the fridge. The bread bas­ket has some­thing akin to a Turk­ish simit in it, plus sour­dough to pile with the fish, cream, tomato slices, red onion and ca­pers. If the brunch had stopped here we would have been happy – this is the win­ning course.

The shakshuka could have used a heav­ier hand with the sea­son­ing to mel­low that tomato sugo flavour, and juicy chicken pieces on a salad of green grapes, candied wal­nuts and cos let­tuce sup­plies a firm nod to Amer­i­can salad sen­si­bil­i­ties. By the time the golden fried French toast filled with molten Nutella and banana ar­rives you might just re­gret wear­ing any­thing tai­lored – for­giv­ing fab­rics are key to comfort.

As if the set menu isn’t enough you can up­grade with a three-hour Cham­pagne pack­age in $20 in­cre­ments, or or­der a bonedry gin Martini from the rov­ing cock­tail cart, be­cause at this point you may as well ask your­self ‘What would Paris Hil­ton do?’ We as­sume the an­swer is ‘get a lit­tle day buzzed in what looks a lot like a dusky pink LA coun­try club’ and we can hon­estly at­test to it be­ing a prop­erly fun time. Ò235 Vic­to­ria St, Dar­linghurst 2010. www.dar­locoun­tryclub.com.au. Thu-Sat 5pm-2am.

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