Grandma’s at McEvoy

Time Out (Sydney) - - Food & Drink -

IF YOU HAD one of those grand­moth­ers who baked you bis­cuits and had a pen­chant for fake flow­ers, you will be very fa­mil­iar with the of­fer­ing at this ware­house bak­ery in Alexan­dria. What’s in your pita pocket? It’s the most de­li­cious rid­dle you’re go­ing to field on your visit at the eat-in edi­tion of this bak­ery chain. You might have grabbed a ri­cotta cake en route from Can­berra in Collector, or be a reg­u­lar at their Rose­bery shop, but the Alexan­dria Grandma’s is the place to sit down and get cosy. Those pita pock­ets are only avail­able from 11.30am on week­days, and only as a take­away op­tion, so pop in for a soft bread pouch filled with chicken, beef or veg­gies, and then choose your ac­com­pa­ni­ments wisely. How about a fresh shred­ded car­rot salad with sesame seeds and pars­ley, a lit­tle cous­cous, labne and fiery hot chilli paste? Or red cab­bage with hum­mus, harissa and salad leaves? The same sal­ads and sides go into the lunch sta­tion, but you also get two hot dishes in your med­ley bowl. There’s a mild, com­fort­ing beef goulash, ten­der potato slices cooked with juicy chicken seg­ments, penne bolog­naise, chicken casse­role, and roasted veg­gies. Jum­ble it all to­gether and you get the best of ev­ery­thing. Pre­fer break­fast for lunch? They do an all-day shakshuka so you can have baked free-range eggs in a clas­sic red sauce day or night. And if you don’t have ac­cess to a babushka to make you chicken soup when you feel crummy, these guys are the next best thing. Their soup is a light, savoury broth filled with spring veg­gies and ten­der chicken pieces – when all the an­tibi­otics are ob­so­lete we’ll still have this soup to cure us. You can even re­stock your pantry while you’re here with jams, olive oil, date spread, bis­cuits and frozen ready-made meals. Even if your Grandma was a biker who smoked a pack a day, you can still ap­pre­ci­ate the twee, com­fort­ing vibes they’re go­ing for here. There are flow­ers on ev­ery ta­ble, a bird bath filled with cookie boxes and the whole place smells like brown­ies in the oven. Emily Lloyd-Tait

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