Bad Hom­bres

Time Out (Sydney) - - Food & Drink - Emily Lloyd-Tait

ANY­ONE WHO THINKS ve­gan can’t be fun needs to update their opin­ions from 1998 and also get to Bad Hom­bres, stat. What started as a Mex­i­can Chi­nese mashup from Toby Wil­son (Ghost­boy Cantina), Sean McManus (Neigh­bour­hood Surry Hills) and Jon Kennedy (the Sand­wich Shop) with a 60 per cent veg-pow­ered menu has now gone the full ve­gan and we’re into it. Snacks, tunes and booze are the key el­e­ments to a good time and these guys are rock­ing one of the best house-party playlists in town. We clock an ’80s glory run of Cul­ture Club’s ‘I’ll Tumble 4 Ya’, Farn­sie’s ‘The Voice’, Fine Young Can­ni­bals’ ‘She Drives Me Crazy’, Dexys Mid­night Run­ners’ ‘Come on Eileen’. On the booze front, they’re rock­ing a fruity, funky, smash-tas­tic line-up of lo­cal nat­u­ral wines that changes all the time – small-batch pro­duc­tion means they can only get it by the case from the vine­yards – so maybe the trop­i­cal-fruits-in-the-sun pet nat from Pyren Vine­yard’s Lit­tle Ra Ra is all poured out. There’ll be some­thing else equally re­fresh­ing to start you off. These guys also do carafes of ev­ery­thing, so you get a sec­ond go at Tom Shob­brook’s grenache rosé that bal­ances a lit­tle savoury funk with soft fruits. There’s around a dozen wines on the list at any time and not one disappointed us so far – or­der with con­fi­dence. There’s no glow­ing ve­gan sign or man­dala to in­di­cate that this is a plant-pre­ferred es­tab­lish­ment. In fact, it still kind of looks like a mod­ern Thai restau­rant in many ways (which it used to be) but the kitchen is sport­ing an ac­cent of its own mak­ing, pair­ing Chi­nese pan­cakes with a whole, deep-fried head of cau­li­flower, cashew cream and punchy herbal sup­port from salsa verde and fresh co­rian­der. Start with a que­sadilla of dark glis­ten­ing kale and zuc­chini flower har­bour­ing a po­lite amount of chilli heat and an ex­tra limy gua­camole. There’s the crunch, squish and squeak of an ex­tra crisp and dis­tinctly corn­flavoured tostada with sweet creamy ku­mara puree as a sauce, and a silky tan­gle of Ja­panese mush­rooms on top. Maybe this week it’s a roasty, caramelised parsnip taco with sa­tay, lime and pick­led diced onion – next week it’ll be what­ever is mar­ket fresh. Wil­son was into the chal­lenge of writ­ing an en­tire menu based on vegeta­bles, and uses pink pick­led onion, lime and herbs as weapons of lev­ity that he ap­plies with as­ton­ish­ing ac­cu­racy, mak­ing un­der­sung veg­gies the heroes of your evening.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Australia

© PressReader. All rights reserved.