Long ser­vice

The best Syd­ney restau­rants that have clocked up ten years of din­ing ex­cel­lence

Time Out (Sydney) - - INSIDE - Edited by Emily Lloyd-Tait Time Out re­views anony­mously and pays for meals

NEW RESTAU­RANTS ARE often in the spot­light, ready for their In­sta­gram close-up. But Syd­ney is also home to a host of lon­grun­ning venues that are still at the top of peo­ple’s din­ing hit lists – hell, Time Out has been writ­ing about them since 2007. These es­tab­lish­ments have stuck to their mis­sion state­ment, of­fer­ing great food with pol­ish and per­son­al­ity. They are the restau­rants that have stayed vital over the last ten years and be­long on the Syd­ney din­ing hon­our roll.

Bentley Restau­rant and Bar

In 2013, when Bentley re­lo­cated from Surry Hills to the Radis­son Blu in the CBD, the team trans­ported $500,000 worth of wine them­selves – mostly in GoGet cars. It says a lot about the restau­rant: se­ri­ous, but not above the DIY ap­proach. Bar­tender Phil Gan­de­via tends a list of booze-free drinks that’s am­bi­tious and fun. Nick Hilde­brandt’s 1,000+ wine li­brary is for­ward-think­ing, while Brent Sav­age’s menu show­cases tech­ni­cal wiz­ardry. à 27 O’Con­nell St, Syd­ney 2000.

Billy Kwong

Syd­ney’s most fa­mous mod-Chi­nese restau­rant ditched the un­com­fort­able stools and cramped Crown Street site three years ago – and the cur­rent lo­ca­tion is a roomy up­grade. What hasn’t changed is Kylie Kwong’s com­mit­ment to cook­ing hon­est food that re­flects her back­ground and be­liefs. Her Chi­nese menu is pow­ered by na­tive in­gre­di­ents and sus­tain­able pro­duce: think red-braised caramel wal­laby tail and crisp or­ganic salt­bush cakes with chilli and tamari. à 1/28 Ma­cleay St, Potts Point 2011.

Fratelli Par­adiso

This all-day Ital­ian eatery is so charm­ing, the own­ers had to ex­port a branch to Tokyo. The Potts Point orig­i­nal presents a good case for world ex­pan­sion: there’s an en­tic­ing chalk­board menu, trays of baked goods, a wine list high­light­ing lo­cal cham­pi­ons (Tom Shob­brook, Lucy Mar­gaux) and the best of the boot, plus – most im­por­tantly – cheery wait­ers de­liv­er­ing Bolog­nese lasag­netta, scampi spaghetti and other carby hits. à 12-16 Chal­lis Ave, Potts Point 2011

These places have stuck to their mis­sion state­ment

Golden Cen­tury In an era of lock­out laws, there’s even more rea­son to be grate­ful for Golden Cen­tury’s 4am clos­ing time. It’s not just a refuge for peo­ple up past cur­few – this Chi­na­town es­tab­lish­ment has over 200 dishes on the menu that cov­ers all bases (and ap­petites), from steamed dim sum and seafood net­ted fresh from the tanks to pip­pies with XO sauce on fried ver­mi­celli that Mo­mo­fuku’s David Chang says is “the best dish in the world”. à 393-399 Sus­sex St, Syd­ney 2000.

Os­cil­late Wildly

Ren­o­vated in 2011, this 40-seater may be small, but Karl Firla’s imag­i­na­tion is out­sized. He took over in 2008 from Daniel Puskas (Six­penny) and while some ma­jor chefs have spent time in Firla’s kitchen (Café Paci’s Pasi Pe­ta­nen, Restau­rant Hu­bert’s Daniel Pep­perell), this restau­rant is keenly fo­cused on el­e­vat­ing the food, rather than any­one’s name. Firla’s de­gus­ta­tion cur­rently in­cludes a fine­din­ing take on fish and chips, served with a sauce of roasted potato and tater-skin stock. à 275 Aus­tralia St, New­town 2042.

Otto

This wharf­side in­sti­tu­tion once tried to re­move its bar­ra­mundi, stroz­za­preti and carpac­cio dish from the menu and a riot al­most en­sued. Another non-ne­go­tiable: Otto’s ve­gan menu (a wel­come fix­ture for more than a decade) and the fact that it has a ded­i­cated BYO group share menu – just in case you need a good ex­cuse to raid your cel­lar (or bot­tle shop). à 8/6 Cow­per Wharf Rd, Wool­loomooloo 2011.

Quay

Yes, the snow egg is over ten years old. And its ever-chang­ing ver­sions range from straw­berry and rhubarb to jack­fruit and cus­tard ap­ple. What’s fixed is the star power of that dessert, and its har­bour­side home. You may need to book a week­end din­ner six months ahead, but Quay is so de­ter­mined to en­sure every­one has a good time it has menus for many di­ets (ve­gan, veg­e­tar­ian, gluten-free and shell­fish­free, to name a few). à Over­seas Pas­sen­ger Ter­mi­nal, The Rocks 2000.

Sean’s Pa­naroma

How many Syd­ney restau­rants have a sand­wich cre­ated in their hon­our? At Brick­fields in Chip­pen­dale, there’s a roasted broc­coli num­ber in­spired by the pasta rags with shred­ded rocket, le­mon and chilli that co-owner Si­mon Can­cio first made at Sean’s Pa­naroma as an ap­pren­tice in 1995. This pasta still ap­pears at the Bondi restau­rant. But that’s Sean’s for you: its dishes earn stead­fast loy­alty – and longevity. ■ à 270 Camp­bell Pde, Bondi Beach 2026.

Golden Cen­tury

Os­cil­late Wildly

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