Time Out (Sydney)

Momo Bar Manly

- Jordan Kretchmer

EVER TRIED A Nepalese dumpling? They’re called momos, and you can find some of the best pudgy little pork pockets on the Northern Beaches at Momo Bar Manly. Seems simple, right? Wrong. This little Market Lane kitchen is also doing poke bowls. Yes, the Hawaiian fish salad. Stay with us, because somehow Nepalese-Japanese-Hawaiian-via-the-Northern Beaches works an absolute treat. Locals know it – a small queue snakes out of the shopfront and virtually every table is taken up on a Friday lunchtime. What looks like a simple salad bar is in fact hiding a bounty worth queuing for. Even though the menu hinges on two dishes – poke and momos – the combinatio­ns for each are countless. For the former you pick your protein (salmon, kingfish, tuna or tofu), base (cabbage, brown rice, or half and half), and five toppings – go wild with shredded nori, jalapeños, pickled ginger, radish and avo (they don’t even charge extra for nature’s butter). Bright green edamame, violet cabbage, soft hunks of ultra-fresh salmon and shreds of orange carrot come topped with sweet toasted sesame dressing and fried shallots for crunch. It’s nourishing, fresh and filling, and maybe the best poke bowl we’ve had in Sydney. It’s a long haul from Honolulu to Kathmandu, but here you’re

jumping from island vibes to Himalayan comfort food in a Vin Diesel-approved culinary handbrake turn. The dumplings come filled with pork, chicken, lamb, lentils or veggies. ‘Manly style’ means they come with a slosh of yoghurt, paprika and warming, soupy chicken broth. The dumpling skin is thin but sturdy enough to hold a generous nub of juicy lamb, which is complement­ed by the garlicky yogurt. The single thing we’re missing is a big spoon to capture the momo’s broth when it’s pieced, but it’s added to the bowl of soup that remains, spiked with the rich paprika butter. Don’t turn your nose up at the lentil dumplings. The texture of the little dotty legumes may be unusual in a dumpling, but they are hearty and earthy, and as a bonus for plant-based eaters they make them vegan too. Sure, Nepalese dumplings and poke is a surprising combo, but we swear it’s a trans-seasonal winner. Everyone loves to jump on an Instaworth­y bandwagon before you can say ‘rainbow bagel’ – but Momo is a true tasty unicorn.

 ??  ??
 ??  ??

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Australia