Con­fi­te­ria Lion D’Or

Time Out (Sydney) - - FOOD & DRINK -

AUSSIES CALL IT a steak sambo. Uruguayans call it a chiv­ito. Ex­cept we’re not just talk­ing about a minute steak be­tween two bits of white bread. The chiv­ito ($12) is Scotch fil­let, ba­con, ham, grilled onions, grilled red cap­sicum, fried egg, tomato, let­tuce and mayo all jammed into a glazed, soft bread roll. Try and get all that into your gob with­out mak­ing a mess.

Home­sick Uruguayans flock to Lion D’Or in Car­ra­mar for a taste of home. It’s a sim­ple eat-in bak­ery café stocked with breads and sweets out the front. A small kitchen in the back sends out hot meals for cheap. The Mi­lanesa ($11) is another Uruguayan clas­sic, a veal schnitzel in a bun with let­tuce, tomato and mayo. Or­der the plate ver­sion ($18) of ei­ther to swap out the bun for a pile of chips and a set of cut­lery. And the chacarero ($11) is worth a look-in – a steak sand­wich vari­a­tion that adds green beans to the stan­dard let­tuce, tomato and mayo combo. Em­panadas come in both Chilean and Uruguayan ver­sions. The lat­ter has a softer pas­try and omits the cumin. Make sure you save room for dessert. Biz­co­chos are a na­tional pas­time: little pas­tries eaten for break­fast, af­ter­noon tea and snacks in-be­tween. They range from savoury – like the cru­asán which looks and tastes like a cousin of the French crois­sant – to sweet, filled or cov­ered in dulce de leche, quince paste, cus­tard cream or crys­tallised su­gar. Biz­co­chos are what you bring when you meet up with friends and fam­ily; at $1.20 each, there’s no ex­cuse not to bring a whole bag­ful. Oh, and there’s one last thing you’ll want to take home. The rosca de chichar­rones is a bread loaf studded with pork crack­ling. Se­ri­ously. Take. My. Money. Helen Yee

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