Time Out (Sydney)

The Doss House

This whisky specialist delves into its past to emerge as a fully realised crowd favourite

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OPEN A BUSINESS in the Rocks, and it’s pretty much a guarantee of heritage sandstone and regular tourist trade. The trick at the Doss House has been to tap into the local history (in past lives this bar was a hospital, an opium den and a bootmaker, and they make no secret of it) while bringing something to the area that attracts Sydney natives as well as the travellers.

That something is whisky – a lot of it. Take a spin through the maze of stone walls and you might spot a couple sinking into a Chesterfie­ld or a velvet booth, one sipping a Sazerac made with Rittenhous­e Rye, the other nursing a Dusky Scotchman, where ten-year-old Laphroaig and Branca Menta are complement­ed by a lick of honey and a dash of salt.

Step up to the bar, and it’s flights touring the Highlands, Lowlands and Isles of Scotland, exploring Japan or travelling the world with stops in Taiwan, France and India. Stay local, and Melbourne-made Starward Wine Cask Malt kicks off the entry level while Sullivans Cove Small Batch French Oak caps off the top end. It all makes good drinking with some cheese and cured meats, and the House delivers, with boards featuring things both simple (Brie, cheddar) and ambitious (kangaroo prosciutto).

So what is it about the Doss House that made it the overwhelmi­ng favourite for this year’s People’s Choice Award? We reckon it’s about being approachab­le and niche all at once in a space that complement­s a storied past with some equally storied drinking. In our eyes, and yours, it’s a full house. à77- 79 George St, The Rocks 2000. 0457 880 180. thedosshou­se.com.au. Tue-Thu 4pm-1am; Fri, Sat 4pm-2am; Sun 4pm-midnight.

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