WHERE THE HELL IS ANDO?

POPULATION: 39,000.

ACCESS: Aeroplane and boat. We drove from Copenhagen and caught the ferry at Ystad in Sweden. AREA: 588sq km.

ATTRACTIONS: Coastal walking tracks, fishing, restaurants, cafes, ocean swimming (togs are an optional extra – this is Scandinavia), 13th-century Hammershus Castle ruins, shopping. Hedgehogs that are called hjylkat on Bornholm and pindsvin on the Danish mainland, 11thcentury round church. Rare European bison, which resemble the American bison, have been released into the forests on Bornholm. If you are lucky you might see one.

cheerily. And then he was off again, back to his computer game.

Next time at the Cold War museum I’ll take the stairs.

Reputation holds water

THE Danish architect Jorn Utzon, who designed the Sydney Opera House, got his start on Bornholm, designing of all things a water tower at Svaneke ( pictured left).

It is no ordinary cement cylinder water tower. This one, as you can see, breaks all the rules when it comes to conformity in water tower design. For a water tower it is a visual treat. The good citizens of

Bornholm thought the water tower ludicrous when it first started going up. They lampooned Utzon and wanted the funny-looking tower removed. The tower stayed, much to the populace’s chagrin. And then Utzon, who was starting to make a name for himself in Denmark as an architect, designed the opera house. The world applauded. Utzon became a celebrity and suddenly, the citizens of Bornholm fell in love with their water tower.

Berlin. Germany’s infatuation with currywurst. How can something so repulsive be so popular? And Hitler’s carpark.