The hills are alive
It’s like Byron before it went mad ... slow down and enjoy the vibe, food, waterfalls and heritage accommodation in the Sunshine Coast hinterland
If you yearn for a place like Byron Bay in its golden days – before it was overloved, overcrowded and overcommercialised – there’s a charming little town in
Queensland that’s a must-visit. Perched 425m above sea level in the Sunshine Coast hinterland, the laid-back, quirky town of Maleny has all the Byronin-its-heyday vibes.
Maleny – with a population of almost 4000 – is an eco-conscious, hippie-like town where you can spot a local from a mile away – they’re the ones with a welcoming smile, donning sustainable or vintage clothing, often sporting their natural locks of free-flowing, long, greying hair and waltzing around without a care in the world. They’re the ones who care deeply about the future of the planet, shunning consumerism and the latest fandangled thing, instead opting for locally-made and eco-friendly belongings.
A visit to Maleny is the ultimate grounding – a natural medicine for a burnt-out soul. I was a first-time visitor to Maleny and within eight hours of arriving, I’d become a relaxed local, playing “Spot the OT” (out of towner) while kicking back on a red velvet couch in a vibey, dimly-lit Italian restaurant feeling pity for uptight-looking city folk who rushed in.
The tiny town dotted with old-school buildings houses thriving cafes serving up delicious meals (Shotgun Espresso and Monica’s Cafe to name a few) from locally sourced ingredients. It also has arguably one of the best IGAS in Australia – so good it’s become somewhat of a destination. Its deli resembles a wholefoods version of a souvenir shop with shelves packed full of high-quality local produce.
There are modern twists that complement the historic old town and one of them is the new Maleny Lodge which only opened at the end of May after a significant restoration of the heritagelisted Queenslander. Owners Andrew and Lucy Pink – UK expats who fell in love with Maleny’s charm – had a genius vision to turn the rundown five-bedroom home with a leaky roof into one of the region’s hottest new accommodation offerings.
The original Queenslander was built pretty much in the centre of town by Alfred and Ada Cook back in 1905. They lived there with their 11 children until the 1940s. It was then sold to the Watson family who added more rooms and turned it into a gentleman’s boarding house. By the 1980s it was run as a bed and breakfast.
The Pinks bought the grand home last year and within eight months had lovingly restored and refurbished the lodge – keeping its historic charm but adding a modern vibe along with an extension at the back. The original home is now the three-bedroom Rosedale complete with whisky room, huge veranda, 100-year-old dining table and kitchen, which still has the remains of the original wood-fired oven and chimney.
Four separate one-bedroom, ensuited guesthouses were also created and can be individually booked. The property also has a stunning communal magnesium pool and garden.
We stayed in Freda – a detached guesthouse which used to be the garage. Like the rest of the property, it has a historic-feel with custom-made VJ board walls, wooden flooring, antique furniture, log burner and traditional roll-top bath.
A couple of hundred metres down the main street is Maleny Lane, a cool vibey laneway filled with festoon lights, street food vendors, live music and BYO drinks.
It was jam-packed when we visited on the Friday night with local music crew Renegade Funk Band getting the dance floor hopping. Their music is classic Maleny. They don’t rehearse, instead improvising songs based on words the crowd throws at them. On the night we visited, they sang about moose moussaka … and a couple of weeks later do you think I can get the jingle out of my head? No.
There was a $15 cover charge and while the vibe was fun, the food options were limited with only two of the advertised seven food vendors open. We soaked in the atmosphere before heading next door to Lane 32 for dinner – an eclectic, dimlylit restaurant with red velvet couches and curtains, and some of the most delicious wood-fired pizzas and passionfruit mojitos you’ll get anywhere.
The next morning, we started it the best way possible … by getting exclusive access to eat all the decadence at Maleny Chocolate Co before it opened for the day.
Their fantastic chefs host trufflemaking classes in their kitchen – you snack while you learn. Chef Sharon Goodman took us through the 1½ hour class as we rolled, dipped and decorated our truffles which we then took home.
And after eating our weight in chocolate, we jumped in the car for the 20-minute drive to the nearby charming town of Montville where we hiked the 5km circuit down to the stunning Kondalilla Falls. The walk is filled with outlooks and towering waterfalls but is super popular, so be prepared to have to park a few hundred metres away.
That night we headed to the Brouhaha brewery where the pub-style menu meets high-quality, with offerings including
master stock braised pork belly.
With a community focused on delicious, local food, you’re guaranteed to get a fabulous meal anywhere you go. So is it Byron 2.0?
Take out the ocean and replace it with waterfalls and it’s close. But, shhhh, let’s keep it between you and me.
The writer was a guest of
Visit Sunshine Coast
A visit to Maleny is … natural medicine for a burnt out soul