Making a power shift
Our Nissan Qashqai has been a great car, but we’re now considering the new X-trail TI-L e-power. What are your thoughts on it? Pam Jones, email
I tested one last month. It looks superb, the cabin’s a massive improvement over old X-trails and there’s serious luxe in this rangetopping TI-L. But good grief it’s not cheap at about $61,700 drive-away. Science-wise, the petrol engine doesn’t drive the wheels, instead it powers a battery which feeds the electric motors. It’s a different take on Toyota’s (very successful) hybrids and drives almost like an electric car, if that’s your thing. I found it not as economical as a Toyota RAV4 Hybrid, but our 5.7L/100km return over 650km still impressed.
I’d recommend the X-trail, but cross-shop with other SUVS at $60,000. There’s lots of quality at that price.
BUDGET BUSTERS Another winter is upon us, and I notice many vehicles driving on cheaper, lesser-known brand tyres. What criteria is used to test tyres on sale in Australia? For me, cornering grip and stopping in the wet are the most important tyre qualities. How different are the worst and best tyres on sale? Are tests government regulated or industry self-regulated?
Russell Frankcombe, email
Tyres are the only point of contact a car has with the road. Good quality, unworn tyres are fundamental. Australian Design Rules (ADR) dictate all tyres sold here must meet certain strength, endurance, high speed stability and heat resistance standards but that doesn’t make them equal. Far from it. Sadly, it’s been left to car magazines and Youtube reviewers (like Tyre Reviews) to offer detailed comparisons with results available in the public domain. Many are comprehensive and worth seeking out before buying. Without exception, tests show budget tyres’ wet and dry grip and braking distances are worse than premium tyres. The difference are most stark in the wet. I know times are tough, but tyres are like mattresses, shoes and shiraz – worth the extra spend for quality.
PROBLEM WITH WIND
My 2020 Mitsubishi ASX suffers wind noise around the front passenger window on the open road. You’d think the window hadn’t been properly shut. I can’t
see any damaged seals. Any ideas? Vicki Ware, email
I’ve tested numerous ASXS over the years. I’ve checked my notes and reviews, and while I’ve grumbled about the model’s age, cabin plastics and ordinary drive experience, wind noise was never an issue. Causes could be many, including damaged door and window seals, which can be hard to spot. You should check the exterior for damage to the door, mirror, windscreen wipers, sunroof and the like. Also look for any debris stuck in panel gaps, door jambs, door drain holes or at the windscreen’s base. Pop the bonnet and clean leaves, twigs and muck from under there too. If that doesn’t help, and it’s driving you potty, a decent workshop should be able to locate the issue and carry out a repair.
PUMP IT UP
Re: the Kia Niro owner with tyre pressure monitoring (TPMS) problems, I had the same issue with my Seltos. I inflated its tyres to the recommended 32 psi and the warning light stayed on. I increased them to 34 psi and the light went out. It may take a little more pressure to activate the sensor. Kevin Larkin, Toowoomba
Re: TPMS, we have a Kia Niro EV and set our tyres (cold) at 34-35 psi. Perhaps 32 psi is too low and the TPMS won’t reset? Owners on Kia EV forums with the same problem has found this resolves it.
Peter Mulholland, email
I’ve received numerous letters from Kia owners (and other brands) reporting similar. A TPMS is a great safety system when working, but gremlins appear common.
These readers’ solutions are definitely worth a try, and anecdotally, mechanics and tyre experts I chat to often suggest adding a few more psi than the recommended figure anyway.
SHIFT THE BLAME
We bought a new Ford Mondeo diesel in 2013. After 126,000km its Powershift auto transmission failed. I discovered a faulty Powershift class action for the Ford Focus, Fiesta and Eco Sport, but the Mondeo was not included. Ford Australia declined my request for repair assistance, despite me suggesting a transmission shouldn’t fail at 126,000km. The car’s well out of warranty so I’m unsure of my legal rights, but morally shouldn’t Ford help out as they sold a car with an inferior transmission? Should I contact NSW Consumer Affairs?
In 2018, Ford Australia was fined $10 million by the ACCC for “unconscionable conduct” for its poor handling of the Powershift fiasco. Thousands had their cars fixed, bought back or replaced, but the Mondeo wasn’t included. These – including your car – use a less problematic wet-clutch Powershift gearbox. The others had a disastrous dry-clutch Powershift. Appeal again to Ford Australia – perhaps suggest they cover parts and you the labour – and if you have no joy try Fair Trading NSW. All products – Ford gearboxes included – must function for a “reasonable period” according to Australian Consumer Law: although “reasonable” is painfully ambiguous. It’s worth pursuing. Gearboxes are hugely expensive.
MANUAL LABOUR I’m intrigued people with cars with three pedals believe they’re “driving a manual”. My father, long gone, had “proper” manual cars in the 1920s and 1930s. Manual aspects included the choke, advance and retard, mixture control, wipers, start, signals, demisters and transmission with no synchro. David Byrne, Kilmore
Spot on. I’ve driven cars from this era, and wow, you’re kept busy. Want people to stop using phones and stay alert when driving? Ensure there’s some proper driver involvement so they’re in-tune with their car. I’m not suggesting we revert back to 1920s tech – after a 30km drive you’re ready for a lie-down – but an over-reliance on driver assist has its drawbacks.