REPLACING BEARINGS AND BUSHES

FLYWHEEL ORIENTATION

The flywheel may have uneven bolt spacing or dowel pegs to ensure it’s replaced as it came off. If not, mark its position relative to the crankshaft. Putting it back differently may cause balance issues.

INSERT CLAW

of a slide hammer puller set (from $50) – usually the best tool for the job. Insert its clawed end through the centre of the bush/bearing, then tighten it to grip the inner face.

USING DIY PULLER

Cut a slot in the end of the bolt. Put the socket in place and engage the bolt with the bearing. Tighten the nut while holding the bolt still with a screwdriver. The bearing will slowly be drawn out.

RETIGHTEN BOLTS

To lock the engine to tighten the bolts, remove the fan belt from the cylinder. Turn the engine forwards past TDC, then reinsert the fan belt and turn the engine backwards until it locks again.

HYDRAULIC BUSH REMOVAL

Fill the bush and the hole behind with grease. Hammer in a close-fitting mandrel (an old gearbox input shaft, clutch aligning tool, length of round bar, etc.). Hydraulic pressure will force the bush out.

TORQUE CORRECTLY

Use a torque wrench to tighten the flywheel bolts according to your manual. They’ll be very tight (eg, 65lb ft). The clutch pressure plate bolts, meanwhile, are very modestly torqued (eg, 20lb ft).

DIY BEARING PULLER

Alternatively, find a large socket that fits over the bearing. Find a long bolt, nut and washer.

The head of the bolt will hook under the bearing. The washer stops the nut pulling through the socket.

REPLACE BUSH/BEARING

Check the new bush or bearing fits snugly on the gearbox input shaft. Drift it carefully in using a socket that bears on its outer shoulder. Don’t strike the inner track or the rubber seal of a bearing.