BOLTS N THREADS
It’s f unny how it’s of ten t he rea lly simple t hings t hat can trip you up over a long project, such as t he seemingly harmless nut and bolt. Just to conf use t hings, t here are multiple t y pes of threads out there, such as UNC, UNF, metric and even proprietar y threads from the days when manufacturers were making ever y thing down to their own bolts.
With a big project, I’ll of ten buy new set of bolts, but a lso get t he originals cleaned up and plated so there’s a good choice to work from when you get to reassembly. The last thing you want is to be held up a day, half way t hrough a critica l task, because you’re missing a bolt.
Oh, and get to k now your loca l bolt specia list – t he loca l hardware store are of minimal use in t his env ironment, while a specia list is worth t heir weight in gold. Remember sometimes it isn’t just a matter of getting t he correct t hread and leng t h, but t he correct materia l for t he job and t he stresses or loads involved.
Now here’s a litt le trick you might want to tr y. You know how some people count rosaries or worr y beads? I used to keep my hands occupied threading nuts and bolts without look ing at them. Sounds odd? It’s a trick my grandfat her taught me and is invaluable for those surprisingly common situations when you’re working in a tight spot and you can eit her see a bolt, or turn a nut on to it, but not both at t he same time!
The ot her great time-saver is hav ing a decent bench grinder and wire wheel on hand. If you nick or damage the end of the thread on a bolt – which is easy to do – you can, with a few minutes work, regrind the end, clean it up and keep going. We’ll put a litt le v ideo online at tradeuniquecars.com.au to show you what I mean. Search for ‘Mick’s workshop bolts’.
(Ed’s note: Dave Morley is on a break.)
I read with interest the article Japanese Value Guide in UC edition 439. This is of particular interest to me as I have owned a 240Z since new.
The fact these beauties are increasing in value is of little consequence to me, as I will never part with my awesome Z (pictured).
My Z has played an integral part of my life from the time I bought it. During the seventies it was my only transport, but also served me faithfully in sprints, hill climbs and motorkhanas. But I digress.
The reason I am writing is to talk about the pricing in the 240-260Z sub article in the Value Guide.
You mention the price of a new 1971 Datsun 240Z was $5000. My car is a 1971 model and the price was $5230, a number that is firmly imprinted on my brain. The difference of $230 may seem insignificant, but to a 21-year-old just out of his apprenticeship it was appreciable, as was the purchase price.
The most expensive Premier Holden at the time was in the $3000s and, as you say, the Z was in the same ballpark as a XY GT!
The other point I wish to address is that you say it had no radio. Oh yes it did. They were fitted with a Hitachi push button AM radio with an auto channel seeking feature and electric aerial. Not bad for 1971.
As there are so few steering wheels left it’s going to be hard for you to confirm my assertion that they were wood, not plasti-wood. My Z still has the original wheel.
I hope I haven’t been too critical, as I love your mag.
My Z had the mother of all restorations a few years back. It took five years. Still looks original but has significant mechanical updates bringing it into line with modern sports car performance. Nothing needs to be changed with the shape, it’s near perfect. What a head-turner it was in the early seven ties ..... and still is.
The Datsun 510 1600 and 240Z were significantly responsible for a number of modern day features we now take for granted, but were quite special at that time, for example alloy head, full synchromesh gearbox, rear independent suspension, disc brakes, overhead cam, etcetera. And don’t forget the self-seeking radio!