Southern charms
NO MATTER WHERE YOU ARE ON the Kiwi ‘mainland’ (aka the South Island), you’ll never be far from something breathtaking. Here we explore five must-visit destinations that show off Te Waipounamu at its striking best.
DUNEDIN
With its Edwardian and Victorian architecture on prominent display, Dunedin is obviously dubbed the ‘Edinburgh of the south’. You can admire Gothic stone buildings at First Church, Knox Cathedral and the town hall. The Gothic Revival mansion, Larnach Castle, dating back to 1871, is another of the city’s must-see attractions, its doors and exquisite gardens open 365 days a year. You can even stay here, for a full regal experience, including dining in-house.
More historic luxury accommodations can be found at the former Wains Hotel, built in 1862. Now refurbished and under the Fable umbrella of hotels, this centrally located property is an easy stroll to the restaurants and bars of The Octagon or nearby lower Stuart Street’s funky cafes and design stores.
But while Dunedin’s colonial past is evident everywhere, this city at the head of Otago Harbour on the South Island’s southeast coast, is also a vibrant student one. And as such comes with a lively cultural scene. Acquaint yourself with the happenings by taking a stroll along the Dunedin Street Art Trail, where you can experience more than 30 colourful, whimsical creations by local and international artists. And when you’ve worked up an appetite, don’t miss a bite at Best Café, an institution since 1932, serving superlative local seafood in a casual environment.
While the food scene in Dunedin deserves exploration, there is another seafood experience an hour away that’s worth the detour. Fleur’s Place is a café right on the waterfront at Moeraki – it’s a no-frills venue serving up the freshest ocean bounty, cooked to perfection and widely lauded by foodies the world over. (While here, cross the bay and check out the Moeraki Boulders: spherical stones scattered across
Koekohe Beach that scientists believe formed about 65 million years ago.)
Nature and wildlife are also a bit of a Dunedin specialty. At the Royal Albatross Centre, the world’s only mainland-breeding royal albatross colony, you can witness these huge wing-spanned birds in all their feathered glory. The Otago Peninsula is also home to blue penguins, sea lions and fur seals.
When you’re ready to stretch your legs, the Tunnel Beach Track is a rewarding two kilometre-return walk, so named for the hand-carved rock tunnel built in the 1870s, which allows passage to the secluded beach at the base of magnificent sandstone cliffs along the wild and wonderful coastline.
Whether you’re a foodie or adrenaline junkie, love history or are fond of wine, a New Zealand South Island adventure awaits.
QUEENSTOWN AND ITS SURROUNDS
Queenstown’s good looks are undeniable – this ski resort town, perched on the edge of an immaculate lake with The Remarkables mountain range as its backdrop, has topnotch tourism infrastructure and is the perfect base from which to explore the region. Skiers are well taken care of here, but all around Queenstown are adrenaline activities to revel in. Something more sedate (although not so much if you’re the driver on those hairpin turns) is the Crown Range Road that lies between Queenstown and Wanaka – the highest main road in New Zealand reaching an altitude of 1,121 metres – for unbelievable views over the countryside. Stop for pics and you may even encounter a cheeky kea bird (watch your valuables). Keep going towards Wanaka and you’ll definitely want to linger in Cardrona’s iconic hotel for a bite and a glass of something cold.
MARLBOROUGH
In the Marlborough region there’s yet more incredible scenery – Queen Charlotte and Marlborough Sounds, we’re looking at you. But another tempting attraction here, for those who like a tipple, is the fact it’s New Zealand’s largest wine region by far, accounting for 75 per cent of the country’s wine production. Here you can have a glass of the globally famed Marlborough sauvignon blanc right at its source. There are upwards of 60 vineyards, with nearly all of them welcoming visitors for a tasting session or a sampling of local fare in some stellar estate restaurants.
KAIKOURA
A two-and-a-half-hour drive from Christchurch, on the east coast of north Canterbury, is the marine mecca of Kaikoura. Here you can see sperm whales year-round, but many other migrating whales, like humpbacks, pilots, blue whales and southern right whales, grace these parts at certain times of the year. If you’re not lucky enough to spot one, dolphins are always aplenty, and just being out on the water on a crisp blue-sky day is worthwhile for the backdrop of the Kaikoura ranges. Keep those views in sight by staying at Hapuku Lodge + Tree Houses, situated 12 kilometres north of Kaikoura. In the canopy of a native Kanuka grove, the five lodgings have large windows from which to soak up soul-restoring mountain and sea views. Hot tip: Don’t leave without trying the lobster this area is famed for.
SOUTHLAND
There are few places in the world that have such varied landscapes united as Southland, right on the edge of New Zealand and anchoring the Southern
Alps. This is where you’ll find soaring mountain peaks beside the deepest of lakes; meandering rivers snaking through fertile farmland; primordial forest beside captivating coastlines – which stretch for an incredible 3,400 kilometres. It’s nature in its most incredible, and humbling, form. This part of the island is also a culinary wonderland, the home of the oh-so-creamy Bluff oyster, not to mention Stewart
Island salmon, mussels, paua (similar to abalone) and blue cod, among many other delicacies. Speaking of Stewart Island, this is the county’s top spot to glimpse wild kiwis, with the nation’s bird outnumbering humans here by 50 to one.