Arabian nights
There’s so much more to Abu Dhabi than wealth. Surrender to the beauty of its desert wonderland, reel in its extravagance and dive into the turquoise shores of its abounding natural islands.
FEAST ON MEZZE AND STICKY SWEETS
Two hours’ drive from Abu Dhabi, Anantara’s Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort rises before me amid a sea of shimmering golden sand dunes like an ancient kingdom. And with its palace-fortress facade, luxurious spaces, palm-fringed lagoon pool, hammam spa and extraordinary service, I’m certainly made to feel like royalty.
A swift check-in, accompanied by a cool face towel and a dateflavoured camel’s-milkshake, is followed by a fun golf cart transit to my room, a necessity given Qasr Al Sarab’s immensity and the desert’s throbbing heat.
Sumptuous suites, sprawling villas and elegant communal spaces, all impeccably decorated in Arabian style, sit harmoniously within this hauntingly beautiful landscape of the Empty Quarter, the largest continuous sand desert in the world.
While it’s easy to give in to the romance of it all – mesmerised by the vista, breathing in the sultry air and imagining ancient tales whispered in the stillness – there are myriad activities on offer providing a more immersive experience into Arabic traditions and the mystical setting. I opt for camel trekking, attempting to channel a warrior queen (but my humpbacked friend proves she’s the boss), while my companions try their hand at everything from desert walks to horse-riding and falconry.
An evening aperitif at Suhail rooftop bar sees conversation abandoned in lieu of gazing at the sunset – a giant fiery-red and violet blaze in the dusty haze.
If you’re staying during the cooler months, book a cushion spot at Al Falaj “restaurant”, a Bedouin-style night camp set up on a plateau lit by torches and strewn with carpets where guests feast on mezze, barbecue fare, wood-fired breads and sticky sweets.
While it’s hard to leave Qasr Al Sarab’s hospitality for the buzz of Abu Dhabi, it’s clear that generosity is not unique to the desert oasis but rather lies at the heart of Arabic culture. In fact, it’s one of many of the things to discover about Abu Dhabi and its people. Admittedly too, some of my own presumptions about the lifestyle here are squashed as swiftly as the endless dates I demolish.
As a female visitor I’m treated with the utmost courtesy and respect and observe that while dress is modest, it’s also fairly liberal – I spot a young women jogging in shorts and a T-shirt and, later, a young mum wearing cut-offs and a tank top. Crime rates, I learn, are very low in the United Arab Emirates’ capital, with women reporting they feel very safe here.
And interestingly, with Emirati making up just 20 per cent of a population that is comprised of more than 200 nationalities with diverse religions and backgrounds, Abu Dhabi manifests a strong sense of cooperation and cohesion; the residents I meet seem to celebrate their home’s multi-ethnicity and inclusiveness.
One thing that meets expectation, however, is the city’s stupefying wealth. Abu Dhabi’s conspicuous extravagance is just one of its fascinating attractions, but there are many others too, among them, its rich Arabic culture, the city’s 400 kilometres of pristine coastline and almost 200 natural islands, its spectacular architecture and, of course, that next-level courtesy so valued by its people. For more information on Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara, go to www.qasralsarab.anantara.com.