CHEFS’ SPECIALS
With Apollo Tokyo sitting above a busy intersection in Ginza, Jonathan Barthelmess doesn’t have to travel far to eat at his favourite sushi restaurant, 1. Ginza Sushi Kanesaka (basement level, Misuzu Building, 8-10-3 Ginza, Chuo-ku). “The menu changes daily with whatever is in season and available from the markets,” says Barthelmess. “It only has 14 seats, so book in advance and make sure to give yourself plenty of time to find it, as it can be a bit confusing in that part of Ginza.” It also happens to be the Fratelli Paradiso team’s tip for sushi, too: “Very good, high-end sushi that won’t break the bank.”
Of course, Japanese fare is not all about raw fish: one of Sam Christie’s favourite meals is tonkatsu (think a Japanese take on pork schnitzel with a distinctive, addictive sauce) at 2. Maisen (4-8-5 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku): “There are a few Maisens in Tokyo, and probably the most famous is in Aoyama. Go there for juicy, panko- crumbed pork cutlets and cabbage salad. It’s busy, but the queue moves fast. This is worth the wait.”
Shibuya-ku): “There are a few tables and a whole lot of fun to be had here. If the language barrier interferes, let the staff order for you – you will be in safe hands. Super-fresh sashimi, classic Japanese curries and standout dishes such as oily fish grilled over charcoal and served with omelette on the side will all blow your socks off.”
The Japanese have long been obsessed with French cuisine, so you’ll find plenty of great Gallic-influenced bistros in Tokyo. Both the Fratelli team and Barthelmess recommend 6. La Pioche (1–18–1 Nihonbashikakigarachō, Chuo-ku). “This is possibly the best wine bar in Tokyo,” Barthelmess says. “[Shinya] Hayashi-san opened his doors only two years ago, but has a large following already. The food is French and very good, the wine is natural, with many rare, hard-to-find gems to be discovered. Book in advance.” The Fratelli team adds: “It’s a bit out of the way, but well worth it … good food, and the wine is out of this world.”
Both the Fratelli team and Neil Perry rave about 3. Fuku (3-23-4 Nishihara, Shibuya-ku), which serves up chicken grilled over hot coals. “Our favourite yakitori, great skewered bits of protein and veg on the coals, washed down with beers and sours,” say the Fratelli partners. Perry adds: “Sit up at the counter and watch the chef’s hypnotic turning and careful tending of skewers on the grill. The final handheld treats are dunked in a thick yakitori sauce. It’s the ultimate fast food, using the freshest of ingredients, which are treated respectfully, a Japanese philosophy that we emulate at Saké Jr.”
For a more theatrical meal, Christie suggests 4. Punk Rock Izakaya (basement level, 30-8 Sarugakucho, Shibuya-ku). “It’s a great place to start or end the night, with loud rock’n’roll and a diverse menu,” he says. “Try to get a spot upstairs for dinner. Hopefully you get to sit on the floor and drink whisky highballs. This place is a hoot.” Perry also recommends the boisterous izakaya 5. Narukiyo (basement level, 2-7-14 Shibuya,
After eating yourself to a standstill, try a tea ceremony at 7. Sakurai
Japanese Tea Experience (5th floor, Spiral Building, 5-6-23 MinamiAoyama, Minato-ku). “The tea ceremony is amazing,” says Barthelmess. “They do five teas and traditional Japanese sweets – one of my favourite experiences.” The Fratelli partners are fans, too: “A great way to lose 45 minutes. Cool people doing cool stuff with tea.” For the ultimate cultural experience, Christie recommends
8. Yakumo Saryo teahouse (3-4-7 Yakumo, Meguro-ku): “A total Zen foodie and design experience. This place represents total immersion in architect and design luminary Shinichiro Ogata’s vision of timeless Japanese style.” “The culture of Japan is indispensable in a world seeking balance between mankind and nature,” Ogata says. “I continually strive to express this in my own way, through food, tableware and space.” Yakumo Saryo isn’t exactly central, but, says Christie, it’s “definitely worth the drive”.