CELLULOSIC MATERIALS

Why are cellulosic materials impactful in an era marked by heightened environmental concerns, and who are the key players?

Man-made cellulosic fibers have a history spanning nearly 100 years, with significant advancements made in the past decade. Cellulosic fibers, renowned for their softness, finesse, and suppleness, also add exceptional comfort to denim fabrics, making them ideal for shirts, dresses, and lightweight pants. Their fluidity and subtle sheen inspire new cuts and styles, which are sophisticated yet casual.

Whilst cellulosic fibers can be associated with significant risks of deforestation, certifications such as FSC or PEFC guarantee that the raw material comes from sustainably managed forests. Another challenge is the chemical use during the transformation processes, but developments like lyocell fibers, such as TENCEL™ Lyocell, Newcell, and Ecocel™ offer promising solutions. These use a lower-impact process with non-toxic solvents, which are recycled in closed-loop systems.

Naia™ by Eastman acetate is among these traceable artificial fibers sourced from sustainably managed pine and eucalyptus forests. It is produced in a closed loop and solvents are reused. LENZING™ ECOVERO viscose, sourced from FSC-certified forests, optimizes water consumption whilst reducing CO2 emissions by half compared to generic viscose. Birla Excel is a traceable lyocell fiber that reuses 99% of solvents. Its traceability can be reinforced by the Green Track™ program, which incorporates additive markers into the heart of the fiber. To reduce reliance on wood supplies, cellulosic fibers like Smart Fibre’s Seacell combine raw materials such as brown algae and wood.

Viscose and lyocell can also be produced from up to 100% recycled cotton offcuts. A very promising path, which could help curb the problems of deforestation and aid circularity efforts.