‘Antarctica is a bit of an obsession’

WHELAN AURORA EXPEDITIONS The beauty is irresistible, says the seasoned guide, who has led about 80 trips to the wild south, writes Kirrily Schwarz

The best thing about Antarctica is the landscapes

It doesn’t matter where you’re standing; it’s unlike anywhere else in the world. It’s so grand and so powerful, and it feels pristine, even though quite a few people are visiting these days. The animals aren’t afraid of you; you can watch penguin chicks breaking out of eggs and their parents coming in from fishing to feed them. It’s a wonderful thing to see.

I was actually just down there in March this year. We had a group of polar snorkellers in the water. That’s a surprising thing that’s really taking off. We have really great gear, so you go into the water wearing a dry suit and it’s really warm. A couple of humpback whales came over and swam around them and under them while they were in the water – it was amazing.

I’ve been going to Antarctica for nearly 27 years now. I actually never missed a summer until Covid. It’s good to be back.

There’s always something different to see

We can’t sail from late autumn to early spring, because there’s too much pack ice, but once it starts opening up there’s something different happening every month.

Photographers, skiers and mountaineers tend to like going early in the season, because it’s all fresh. Snorkellers and scuba divers tend to book trips a bit further in. In my opinion, any time is a good time to visit.

Don’t forget to pack a good pair of binoculars

You need a camera of some description, even if it’s just an iphone, and a pair of binoculars. We have some on the ship but it’s always better to have your own, because you never know what you’ll see.

Visiting Antarctica feels like you’re entering the Garden of Eden.