MALDIVES THREE WAYS
We go beyond the overwater bungalows to discover the island nation’s thriving culture and the Maldivian way of life
As my plane touches down in the Maldives, it suddenly occurs to me that I’ve never given much thought to the airport itself. Would it be right on the edge of the ocean, just like the luxurious resorts the small South Asian island nation has become famous for?
When I suggest this to my travel companions, we all laugh and collectively decide that this surely isn’t the case. The airport is situated in Malé, the country’s capital. But, sure enough, as we collect our bags and make our way through customs, water laps just metres from the entrance, lined with waiting speedboats instead of taxis.
I breathe in the fresh sea air and instantly feel myself relax. We’re on island time now.
We’re welcomed by our beaming tour guides Kamey and Mash from Secret Paradise. The tour company was founded in 2012 by British diver Ruth Franklin who was eager to give tourists a true glimpse into the local customs and Maldivian way of life.
Both Kamey and Mash are brimming with information and guide us to our waiting speedboat for the 30-minute trip to the tiny island of Gulhi for our first adventure.
Gulhi is an inhabited island located in the South Malé Atoll, close to Maafushi island, and connected daily [except Fridays] by public transport ferry.
When we arrive, we take a quick walk from the port to the island’s biggest guesthouse,
Tropic Tree Hotel. With just 11 guest rooms, it’s charming and has all the modern comforts (including much-welcomed air conditioning!) plus a rooftop terrace.
With a population of 1200 people, it only takes about 15 minutes to walk the entire
island, and we take in the stunning blue waters of the beach and watch locals playing soccer at fields further along the coastline.
Each house is painted a different bright colour and the little streets are lined with chairs and swings where locals meet and watch the world go by. As we meander the paths, it’s impossible not to feel a sense of calm which makes me wonder whether I should make the move to the tiny island to enjoy a simpler way of life.
Fishing is the main economy on the island, so you can expect delicious tuna for all of your meals – including breakfast, where we’re served the traditional Maldivian meal, mas huni. This dish is made from grated coconut, onion and, of course, tuna. While I am not normally a big fan of seafood, I dive in and am not disappointed. My meal, prepared by the staff at Tropic Tree, is fresh and bursting with flavour.
On our first full day, we head out with our guides for a day of snorkelling and hope to spot some of the 100 species of fish along the nearby reefs.
While I’ve seen countless photos of the Maldives on Instagram, I am blown away by just how crystal blue the water is as I jump in off the boat and spot a turtle swimming below. Each area we stop at during the day is somehow even more picturesque and secluded than the last, making for a truly unforgettable experience.
The capital of Malé is perfect for a true glimpse into the local life in the Maldives.
After we visit the Presidential Palace and Friday Mosque, we stop in at the historic Royal Garden Cafe. I would’ve walked right past had it not been for our guides, who explained that this site was a rare surviving example of a ganduvaru, a nobleman’s house.
I’m 187cm tall, so I have to duck under the entranceway, which shows just how historic the structure is – and how tall I am! Once guided inside, we enjoy a coffee among the locals before heading back to the busy streets.
Another must-stop island is Villimalé, just a 10-minute ferry ride from Malé. It’s a popular spot with locals, who picnic along the beautiful shorelines on weekends. We stroll the streets taking in the bright houses and lush gardens.