THE BROW CODE
From bold to barely there and downright bushy, it’s been quite a journey. For now it seems full, fluffy brows are here to stay
Anyone who’s experienced the wonders of a professional brow grooming knows it’s quite something to see how strategic plucking and a little shading can transform your face. There’s something so polished about strong, defined brows. Good news: it’s easy enough to rehab them at home. Here, we tackle curly questions about handling gaps, dated shapes and barely there hairs, and ensuring your makeup has an impact.
PROBLEM TOO BUSHY
For a full brow with a modern shape, you need a trim. Brow expert Kristie Streicher says fill brows with a pencil as a guide and to prevent over-trimming. Use a strong, clear brow gel to brush hair up towards the hairline and out towards the temple. Let them dry, then trim ends sticking beyond desired shape. Go one at a time to avoid overdoing it.
PROBLEM 2 GREAT SHAPE, BUT PATCHY
If you like your shape, but the hairs are a bit sparse in spots, makeup artists recommend a pomade such as Billion Dollar Brows brow powder or a superfine brow pencil to sketch in missing strands. Opt for a firm yet creamy texture to ensure colour sticks to skin. Choose a shade darker than your brow hairs for a natural-looking finish.
PROBLEM 3 YOU CAN’T FIND YOUR SHAPE
Your arch should line up with the outer edge of your pupil. How high, long and thick you go depends on face shape – a professional shaping can help here. If your brows lack arch, carefully remove one hair at a time beneath the highest point of your brow, just beyond the iris. Leave length alone – eyebrows that fall short are less flattering.
PROBLEM 4 BALD SPOTS
Growing out more than just sparse brows and have gaps to fill? Use a putty-like pomade. Paint on desired brow shape with an angled brush, covering patches and baby hairs with pomade, which tames hairs and adds dimension. Stay in the natural brow line. Blend with a brow brush to finish.
PROBLEM 5 BROWS WHERE?
Beyond pomades, pencils and shadow, there are more permanent options. The quickest is tinting, which bulks baby-fine hairs and creates a more defined shape. For those with blonde or light brows, it can find brows you never knew you had. Microblading, a semipermanent tattoo treatment, is also popular – offered by Sydney brow masters like Amy Jean. Microneedles inject ink into the top layer of skin, making hair-like strokes. Unlike tinting, there is healing time and aftercare, although the treatment can last years.
PROBLEM 6 NOT QUITE THICK ENOUGH
The good news: it’s easy enough to bulk up brows. Once you’ve filled any spots, brush a tinted brow gel in the opposite direction of the hair’s growth – from the tail to the inner corner of brows. To finish, sweep the wand through your brows in the direction of hair growth. Makeup artist hack: by coating the hair on all sides, you instantly make them appear fuller.