Magic in MERIMBULA
Looking for a lesser-known local paradise? The NSW S south-eastern coastline holds some answers
The plane tilts and, suddenly, an endless expanse of shimmering blue-green ocean comes into view from the passenger window. Sparkling just like its namesake the Sapphire Coast, it’s a scene that causes travellers to erupt into applause as the plane touches down.
But today there’s another reason for this excitement. Merimbula recently entered the spotlight when Qantas announced flights to the airport from Sydney four times a week until October, with Melbourne to follow.
For locals, it’s welcome news that will benefit both the tourism industry and those with family in the two major cities. For those like your writer, it means getting here from Sydney takes just 55 minutes as opposed to a six-hour drive. One of the first things any visitor to the region realises is that you want to savour every second. I could have spent hours at Merimbula Wharf, watching aquamarine waters lapping against the shoreline of earthy-red rocks and honey-coloured sand.
A small aquarium, open Wednesday to Sunday, is home to 28 tanks of local marine life and is a way for those who prefer to keep their feet on the ground to see what lies beneath the water. Plus, if the weather turns sour it’s a good option to keep the kids amused.
SLOW IT DOWN
The neighbouring town of Pambula, a 10-minute drive away, is the very definition of quaint. Its wide streets are
home to boutique shops including a retro-style milk bar, an expansive lolly store and an art gallery.
But to really feel part of history, make a reservation to dine at Banksia Restaurant. This heritage-listed building was once a bank (look closely and you’ll see the vault!).
A set three-course meal includes an eggplant timbale entree, roasted pork collar for main, followed by a tantalising coconut sorbet encased in brandy snap with fresh raspberries for dessert. There’s flexibility, too, with items able to be adjusted for vegetarian and vegan diets.
While food and fine dining are abundant, nature is, undeniably, the region’s real draw. There are plenty of accessible walks both short and more challenging through a 20km-long one in Mimosa Rocks National Park. These can be experienced solo or on a guided tour, with local experts Cam and Tess from Sapphire Coast Guiding.
ADVENTURE TIME
Keep going south of Eden to explore Towamba River by kayak with Jen and Arthur from Kiah Wilderness Tours.
Much of the region was razed during the devastating summer bushfires of 2019, but there’s a real serenity to the winding river that can be explored even by clumsy beginners like me, who soon found a rhythm without ending up falling in the water.
If you’re lucky, you might even spot the elusive azure kingfisher, which lives along the banks. It’s a tiny bird that knows how to camouflage itself well, but tour guides Jen and Arthur have eagle eyes.
A word of advice to first-timers – after spending an hour seated in the kayak, my legs turned to jelly the second I tried to get out. Thanks to Jen for grabbing hold of me just in time!