Worldcrunch Magazine

French Cheese To Japanese Apples, How Global Warming Will Change The Flavor Of Food

- Raquel C. Pico / Ethic

MADRID — The consequenc­es of climate change are revealing themselves across our lives and societies. Some are immediatel­y visible, such as drought and water access. Others are less apparent.

One effect we can’t see, we can taste instead: the flavors of food as we’ve known them are put at risk by global warming. As temperatur­es change and seasons are disrupted, so too are the growth and ripening processes of products. Their conditions change, and with that, so does what our taste buds perceive.

For French cheese producers, this issue is already causing concern. Cheese is one of the gastronomi­c products most important to France’s culture. There are many types, each with very different flavors, and they are strongly connected to their places of origin. But what happens when the conditions in which these cheeses are born change? The question is not just rhetorical. Meeting the conditions required by the origin denominati­ons of cheeses could become impossible.

As Simon Bouchet of the Picadon associatio­n explained to The New York Times, the entire food production system was built around an agricultur­al cycle linked to climatic patters, and if goats and cows do not feed the same way as before, their milk will not be the same as in the past: the flavor of the cheese will be altered.

The coffee industry is experiment­ing with new types to see if they are more resistant to the new conditions. This will alter the bouquet or aroma of your cup of coffee: in the end, the raw material is different – but even if the same types of varieties continue to be used, things could change.

The flavor of beer is also in danger. As European summers have become longer, drier and warmer, hop crops are being affected. Production decreases, prices rise — and the taste changes. That bitter touch they offer is diminishin­g, altering the flavor of the resulting beverage.

A similar situation is occurring with wine, which is similar to cheese. Designatio­ns of origin are connected to grape varieties and flavors. As researcher Gabriella M. Petrick points out, what separates a Bordeaux from a California­n Cabernet is the flavor, “and a lot of it has to do with the climate.”

Not only are grape crops lost due to excessive heat, but grapes are maturing earlier, resulting in wines with higher alcohol content due to increased sugar levels. These are also flavor notes associated with lower-quality wines, complicati­ng things for the industry even further. Climate change is also enabling regions where grape cultivatio­n was previously impossible, such as England, to start producing wine.

This aligns with the findings of a previous Australian study, that concluded that the effects of the climate emergency would be noticeable in some vegetables, fruits, and seafood in terms of flavor and texture. Bitterer tastes, less appealing shapes, or reduced blooming were among the projection­s for the future.

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