Nostalgia for an Ancient Chinese Style
BEIJING — They flocked together in silky, flowing gowns, many wearing high black hats or intricate floral headpieces.
They resembled time travelers from a Chinese imperial ritual of a thousand years ago.
These retro-style dressers, gathered in Beijing recently, are devotees of the “Hanfu” movement. They are dedicated to reviving the clothes they believe China’s Han ethnic majority wore before their country succumbed to centuries of foreign domination — and to taking pride in the past they evoke.
“Hanfu is a social scene, and that’s why I’m into it, but it also has deeper levels of national feeling too,” said Yin Zhuo, 29, a computer programmer who joined the day of activities in a long blue gown and red cape with a fake fur fringe.
The Chinese leader, Xi Jinping, has promoted traditional virtues, making this a golden time for fans of Hanfu — which means Han clothing — and giving it permission to grow.
Proponents say Hanfu has up to a million followers, mostly female, in their teens and 20s.
“Reviving Hanfu had great significance for raising Han ethnic identity and pride,” said Wang Letian, a power utility worker who is credited with starting the movement 15 years ago when he strolled through a city in central China wearing old-style robes.
Officials have embraced Hanfu as part of the Communist Party’s idea of tradition.
Hanfu draws on the idea that China’s ethnic Han majority — who make up more than 90 percent of the population — should show their pride by wearing clothes like those worn before Manchu armies from the north occupied China and ruled it as the Qing dynasty from 1644. The Manchu emperors, and then waves of Western and Japanese imperialists, imposed their own styles, and Han culture fell into eclipse.
As Hanfu has spread, it has also become more fractious. Hanfu websites debate what counts as authentic clothing.
“Much of the history and traditions that the movement cites are invented,” said Kevin Carrico, a lecturer in Chinese studies at Macquarie University in Australia. “They are creating this history for themselves.”
Followers differ over whether Hanfu is primarily about ethnic as- sertion, instilling ancient values, or simply making a bold fashion statement.
“There are nationalists, then there are people purely into the look and aesthetics, and there’s another group drawn to ancient traditions,” said Fu Renjun, an editor of a website that promotes traditional culture.
Hanfu followers’ dedication can spill into chauvinism and patronizing attitudes toward China’s ethnic minorities, like Uighurs and Tibetans. Chinese policies toward these minorities have come under international criticism, but many Han Chinese see themselves as protectors of minorities.
“Our nationalism is a positive energy,” Mr. Wang said. “The Han should, to put it simply, be the big brother, and only then can we properly guide and protect the little brother and sister ethnic minorities.”