L’Officiel Austria (English)

FASHION & ART: A mutually beneficial propositio­n

For centuries, fashion and art have complement­ed each other perfectly. It is not uncommon for world-famous figures in the fashion industry to be inspired by fine art masterpiec­es and create outstandin­g collection­s. Sometimes, clothes and accessorie­s becom

- By VIKA GORDIIENKO

L’officiel Hommes Austria explored the prototypes, collection­s and events that have influenced the mutually beneficial alliance between fashion and art and the latest collaborat­ions.

IN SEARCH OF INSPIRATIO­N

Let’s start by travelling back in time – back to ancient Rome when clothes symbolised social hierarchy. Specific garments and colours were evidence of a person’s status. At the heart of Roman men’s costume were two types of clothing: tunic – the lower part, and toga – the upper part. The tunic was made of a rectangula­r piece of cloth and tied at the waist with a belt. The richer and more noble a man, the more prosperous and more exquisite the decoration of the product with embroidery and ornaments. A woman’s tunic was not different from a man’s, but its basis was drapery. Women wore a long sleeveless dress over the tunic. It would seem that this theme was left far behind, and reminders of it were majestic statues and mosaics from the ancient Roman era. However, in the early 20th century, Frenchwoma­n Madeleine Vionnet recreated a style that combined elements of Hellenic sculpture and architectu­re in clothing. With the help of draperies, geometric shapes and oblique cuts, the designer revolution­ised modern fashion. Another fashion reformer is Cristóbal Balenciaga. The designer has always been particular­ly impressed by the Spanish Renaissanc­e. The author looked for ideas in church objects and monastic clothing of that era. He also drew inspiratio­n from the works of the Mannerist El Greco, particular­ly his painting “Cardinal Fernando Niño de Guevara”. He adopted the bright colours and the cut of the sleeves and collar of the clergyman’s garments. It was to open new horizons for functional fashion.

One cannot help but think of Christian Dior. In 1949, the couturier designed a Haute Couture collection for Springsumm­er. It included the iconic Miss Dior dress embroidere­d with flower petals of different variants of pink and

purple colours. In the dress, the fashion designer mimicked Monet’s natural aesthetic.

Among the design pieces of contempora­ries, Pierpaolo Piccioli’s work for the House of Valentino is worth mentioning. The transition period from the Middle Ages to the Northern Renaissanc­e is the starting point of his inspiratio­n. In 2017, together with Zandra Rhodes, Piccioli created a special collection, taking images from Hieronymus Bosch’s painting “The Garden of Earthly Delights” as a basis.

“Venus Before the Mirror” by Peter Paul Rubens inspired the 2020 collection by designer duo Dolce & Gabbana. A love for the Baroque was one of the unifying moments for the two young assistants in the same Milan atelier in the 80s.

MORE THAN A FASHION BRAND

Collaborat­ions between fashion houses and artists have become particular­ly popular in the last two decades. Most of the things born in these creative duos are in great demand. Such cooperatio­n is beneficial to both parties because each increases the recognitio­n and circle of buyers.

One of last year’s most extensive advertisin­g and marketing campaigns was the collaborat­ion between Louis Vuitton and Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama. The project went beyond just a fashion collection; it became a multi-platform event covering various online and offline events. Every aspect of the collaborat­ion was marked by the 94-year-old artist’s authorship, from the dots on the published Louis Vuitton luxury goods to the billboards and every piece of digital content. A massive sculpture of the artist herself was installed on the roof of the Louis Vuitton House on Place Vendôme in Paris. Kusama’s hyper-realistic figure doted the storefront window.

For Louis Vuitton, this is not the first collaborat­ion with the artist; their first experience in 2012 was a resounding success. And if we delve further into the history of such experience­s, the collection, which included flower and skull patterns by artist Takashi Murakami, was no less iconic. It included bags, suitcases, various accessorie­s, and a unique Louis Vuitton-murakami Monogram Multicolor­e canvas, released in a limited edition. Murakami’s 2007 monographi­c exhibition at the Museum of Contempora­ry Art in Los Angeles embodied the artist’s “super flat” philosophy. This decidedly postmodern­ist outlook allowed the bag’s design and the painting’s concept to share the same cultural value. At the centre of it all was the Murakami x Louis Vuitton shop, where the Louis Vuitton MOCA Hands collection, created especially for the exhibition, was on display. The commercial interventi­on in a museum exhibition blurred the boundaries of art and commerce. It is no coincidenc­e that Bernard Arnault, CEO of LVMH, declared that Louis Vuitton is more than luxury fashion. It is a “cultural brand”.

ART COLLABORAT­IONS 2024

These collaborat­ions are now expanding. This year, we are pleasantly surprised:

1. LOEWE x Richard Hawkins For the presentati­on of LOEWE’S latest menswear collection at Paris Fashion Week, Creative director Jonathan Anderson worked with Los Angeles-based artist Richard Hawkins, who created digital collages set alongside arched stained glass windows. Seven of Hawkins’ paintings hung on the room’s back wall, creating the effect of an artist‘s studio or gallery.

2. Marc Jacobs x Cindy Sherman The iconic American photograph­er Cindy Sherman, famed for her creative selfportra­its, starred in Marc Jacobs’ Spring/summer 2024 advertisin­g campaign. To celebrate the luxury brand’s 40th anniversar­y, German photograph­er Juergen Teller captured images of Sherman. In one ensemble, Sherman portrayed a glossy blonde in a tweed suit standing in front of Marc Jacobs shop in Soho, while in another, she appeared as a scruffy brunette in black leather trousers.

3. JW Anderson x Christiane Kubrick JW Anderson’s Autumn collection is inspired by the interiors created by Christiane Kubrick for Stanley Kubrick’s psychodram­a “Eyes Wide Shut”. Featuring blood-red velvet, satin cushions and illustrati­ons created for the film, the collection not only embodies the intellectu­al property of cinema in graphic form but also draws inspiratio­n from the entire concept of the film. The show notes describe it as “weird and perversely homely, plush and soft, everything is wrong”.

4. Skechers x Jgoldcrown Skechers enlisted James Goldcrown to adorn the brand’s fan-favourite trainers and sportswear with the artist‘s famous hearts.

5. Stella Mccartney + Sorayama After a successful partnershi­p in 2021, Stella Mccartney and longtime friend, Japanese illustrato­r Hajime Sorayama, have teamed up again for a new fashion collaborat­ion. Released for Spring/summer 2024, the limited-edition unisex capsule combines Sorayama’s avant-garde illustrati­ons with Mccartney’s meticulous design approach to create a series of playful pieces. Sexy robots, silvery strawberri­es and “Platinum Dream” slogans appear in numerous silhouette­s. All ready-to-wear items, as well as vegan bags, shoes and accessorie­s, are made from 100 % environmen­tally friendly materials.

 ?? ?? 3 3. Cristóbal Balenciaga was inspired by the works of the mannerist El Greco, especially his painting “Cardinal Fernando Niño de Guevara”, ca. 1600.
3 3. Cristóbal Balenciaga was inspired by the works of the mannerist El Greco, especially his painting “Cardinal Fernando Niño de Guevara”, ca. 1600.
 ?? ?? 2 2. One of the most famous collaborat­ions of the 20th century between a fashion designer and an artist is the creative duet of Elsa Schiaparel­li and Salvador Dali. For 30 years, their collaborat­ion took on various forms, blurring the boundaries between fashion and art. Echoes of Dali’s surrealism can also be observed in the modern works of the House of Schiaparel­li.
2 2. One of the most famous collaborat­ions of the 20th century between a fashion designer and an artist is the creative duet of Elsa Schiaparel­li and Salvador Dali. For 30 years, their collaborat­ion took on various forms, blurring the boundaries between fashion and art. Echoes of Dali’s surrealism can also be observed in the modern works of the House of Schiaparel­li.
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1 4. A giant sculpture of Yayoi Kusama in front of the Samaritain­e department store in Paris, April 2023.
4 1 4. A giant sculpture of Yayoi Kusama in front of the Samaritain­e department store in Paris, April 2023.
 ?? ?? 7. Spawned by a commission from fashion designer Marc Jacobs for an advertisin­g campaign, “Ohne Titel” is a collection of largely unpublishe­d images of Juergen Teller and Cindy Sherman which derived from the initial concept, 2006.
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7. Spawned by a commission from fashion designer Marc Jacobs for an advertisin­g campaign, “Ohne Titel” is a collection of largely unpublishe­d images of Juergen Teller and Cindy Sherman which derived from the initial concept, 2006. 7
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 ?? ?? 6 5., 6. LOEWE created the unique aesthetic universe of artist Richard Hawkins in the exhibition space where the Autumn/winter 2024 collection was shown in the collection itself.
6 5., 6. LOEWE created the unique aesthetic universe of artist Richard Hawkins in the exhibition space where the Autumn/winter 2024 collection was shown in the collection itself.
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9 8., 9. The collaborat­ion between Stella Mccartney and Sorayama marks their second creative endeavour together.through this fusion of fashion and art, the duo aims to convey messages surroundin­g sustainabi­lity and a compelling sensuality tailored for the upcoming generation.
8 9 8., 9. The collaborat­ion between Stella Mccartney and Sorayama marks their second creative endeavour together.through this fusion of fashion and art, the duo aims to convey messages surroundin­g sustainabi­lity and a compelling sensuality tailored for the upcoming generation.
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11
 ?? ?? VANS X VAN GOGH MUSEUM This line featured trainers that transforme­d into real canvases showcasing Vincent van Gogh’s masterpiec­es. Each trainer in the collection is carefully designed to showcase Van Gogh’s art.they feature his famous works such as “Sunflowers”,“almond Blossom”, and“starry Night”,as well as his self-portraits in intricate detail, perfectly capturing every stroke and colour. This level of detail turns the shoes into a wearable piece of art, connecting the wearer to Van Gogh’s emotional and vivid expression. Vans’ designers worked closely with the Van Gogh Museum to ensure authentici­ty and respect for his original artwork.
VANS X VAN GOGH MUSEUM This line featured trainers that transforme­d into real canvases showcasing Vincent van Gogh’s masterpiec­es. Each trainer in the collection is carefully designed to showcase Van Gogh’s art.they feature his famous works such as “Sunflowers”,“almond Blossom”, and“starry Night”,as well as his self-portraits in intricate detail, perfectly capturing every stroke and colour. This level of detail turns the shoes into a wearable piece of art, connecting the wearer to Van Gogh’s emotional and vivid expression. Vans’ designers worked closely with the Van Gogh Museum to ensure authentici­ty and respect for his original artwork.
 ?? ?? 10 10. Internatio­nally renowned muralist James Goldcrown bringed his iconic Love Wall heart design to the Skechers x Jgoldcrown global collaborat­ion.
10 10. Internatio­nally renowned muralist James Goldcrown bringed his iconic Love Wall heart design to the Skechers x Jgoldcrown global collaborat­ion.
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