Baob­abs & wa­ter­falls

Join go! and Bhe­jane 4x4 Ad­ven­tures on a guided self- drive camp­ing tour from north­ern Botswana to Vic­to­ria Falls.

go! Botswana - - ACCOMMODATION GUIDE -

11 HOW days, LONG10 night­sIS THE TOUR? DATES? 1 – 11 June 2018 15 – 25 Au­gust 2018 1 – 11 Septem­ber 2018 12 – 22 Septem­ber 2018 DAY 1 We meet in the town of Letl­hakane and re­fuel. Then we head out into the bush and onto the vast ex­panse of Mak­gadik­gadi Pans to spend our first night on Kubu Is­land. DAY 2 Early birds and keen pho­tog­ra­phers will rel­ish watch­ing the sun­rise over the pans while en­joy­ing cof­fee and rusks. Af­ter break­fast we walk around the is­land with its fas­ci­nat­ing rock for­ma­tions and iconic baob­abs while the lo­gis­tics team strikes camp. Then it’s time to head north to our overnight camp out­side Maun.

DAY 3 We spend the morn­ing in Maun for shop­ping and fuel. There’s an op­por­tu­nity for an hour-long flight over the delta (not in­cluded in the tour rate). Then we de­part for our next overnight stop on the banks of one of the delta’s main chan­nels. The lo­gis­tics team will have set up camp and the pots will be sim­mer­ing.

DAY 4 Af­ter a few days’driv­ing it’s time to re­lax. We have a late start with a big brunch. The camp is known for bird­ing, in­clud­ing the res­i­dent Pel’s fish­ing-owl. In the late af­ter­noon, we ex­plore the wa­ter­ways of the Oka­vango Delta and the pan­han­dle on a cruise in com­fort­able alu­minium speed boats. DAY 5 We head north into Namibia via Tsodilo Hills with their mag­nif­i­cent rock art. Here, we visit the mu­seum and en­joy a pic­nic lunch. Our camp­site for the next three nights is a shady spot on the banks of the Oka­vango River.

DAY 6 We en­joy a big brunch and then you’re free to ex­plore on your own or re­lax in the camp. Go for a game drive in the nearby Bwab­wata Na­tional Park, do some bird­watch­ing, go on a dug-out ca­noe trip, do a vil­lage tour or cast a line in the water. We meet in the late af­ter­noon for a sun­downer cruise. ( The cruise is the only ac­tiv­ity for the day in­cluded in the price.) DAY 7 We visit Ma­hango Game Re­serve, which boasts four of the Big Five and is well known for

large num­bers of roan and sable an­te­lope. DAY 8 We pack up and head for the Zam­bezi Re­gion (Caprivi). Our next camp is just out­side Kasane, on the banks of the Chobe River. We spend our last three nights here.

DAY 9 To­day we go on a bus trip to Vic­to­ria Falls and have a pic­nic lunch, plus do some sight­see­ing and shop­ping in the town of Vic­to­ria Falls. There are a num­ber of ad­ven­ture ac­tiv­i­ties on of­fer here, like bungee jump­ing, river raft­ing and he­li­copter flights (not in­cluded in the tour price). DAY 10 We take a drive through Chobe Na­tional Park in an open game-drive ve­hi­cle, and en­joy a sun­set boat cruise on the Chobe River. We spend our last night around the camp­fire, cel­e­brat­ing new friend­ships and bonds formed af­ter ex­pe­ri­enc­ing the magic of the south­ern African bush to­gether. DAY 11 It’s time to say good­bye be­fore we head back to our homes and jobs.

ZAM­BEZI RIVER, ZAM­BIA The Zam­bezi flows for hun­dreds of kilo­me­tres through Zam­bia be­fore it tum­bles over a cliff at Vic Falls. Up­stream, there are lodges and camps where you can ex­pe­ri­ence the river in dif­fer­ent ways, whether you’re a twitcher or look­ing to catch a tiger fish. See the ar­ti­cle on page 78 if you want to add the Zam­bezi River and Ka­fue Na­tional Park to your Botswana trip. 112 Kabula Lodge This place is about 60 km north of the Wenela-Sesheke bor­der post (at Ka­tima Mulilo). You can spend your days fish­ing, bird­watch­ing and re­lax­ing. Camp­ing R130 per adult; R75 per child un­der 16. Fam­ily unit for four peo­ple R1 100 per night. Fish­ing (in­clud­ing boat hire) R300 per hour for up to three peo­ple. Fire­wood R15 per bun­dle. GPS: S17.04082 E24.01504 082 672 5168 (Pi­eter); kab­u­ 113 Kavumbu About 77 km north of Sesheke, next to the Zam­bezi River. Like most lodges in the area, they fo­cus on fish­ing – your group can book the whole camp. Camp­ing R450 per stand per night (only one ve­hi­cle per stand); fire­wood in­cluded. Chalet for two peo­ple R750 per night. Fam­ily unit for four peo­ple R1 300 per night. GPS: S16.93319 E23.90430 114 Brenda’s Best Baobab Stay at Brenda Ka­man­disa’s place if you’re us­ing the Ka­tima Mulilo/ Sesheke bor­der post and dark­ness has caught up with you. It’s in Sesheke, but on the Zam­bezi River, sur­rounded by baob­abs. Camp­ing K50 (R68) per per­son. Twin-sleeper chalet K200 (R274) per night. Chalet for four peo­ple K300 (R411) per night. Meals also avail­able. GPS: S17.48235 E24.29260 00 260 96 378 6882; bren­das­ 115 Shack­le­tons Tiger Fish­ing Lodge The Zam­bezi River is known for its tiger fish and Shack­le­tons is all about fish­ing. It’s about 60 km down­stream from Sesheke; 140 km up­stream from Liv­ing­stone. You can fly to Liv­ing­stone and they’ll come pick you up. Be­sides tiger fish, you can also catch nem­bwe, three-spot tilapia and green bream. Shack­le­tons sup­plies stan­dard fish­ing gear, but bring your own fly-fish­ing gear if that’s what you’re into.

There are six dou­ble chalets ac­com­mo­dat­ing 12 peo­ple in to­tal. R2 850 per per­son shar­ing, in­clud­ing all meals, a boat and skip­per, and up to 20 litres of fuel per day. Half-price for chil­dren un­der 12. Pack­age rate for four nights: R12 550 per per­son shar­ing, in­clud­ing every­thing men­tioned above plus trans­fers to and from Liv­ing­stone air­port. Call your friends and make ar­range­ments… GPS: S17.49658 E24.77525 083 251 7257 (James); shack­le­

go! says: The road be­tween Liv­ing­stone and Sesheke is in poor con­di­tion. Drive slowly. KA­FUE NA­TIONAL PARK Parts of this park are ac­ces­si­ble from the M9 tar road. Ka­fue is a big re­serve so don’t try and cram every­thing into one visit. See the ar­ti­cle on page 78 for a route from Ka­tima Mulilo (Namibia) to Liv­ing­stone (Zam­bia), which in­cludes the Zam­bezi River and Ka­fue. 116 Kasabushi You have to pay park fees (see side­bar). Andy and Libby Wil­son run a small camp­site and lodge where you can get that deep-in-the-bush feel­ing. Kasabushi is on the west­ern bank of the Ka­fue River about 45 km south of the M9 tar road, where the river branches off into three streams. Camp­ing US$22 (R284) per per­son, in­clud­ing fire­wood – there are five stands and a unique shower: It looks like a wa­ter­fall. Two chalets on the river: US$185 (R2 371) per per­son per night if you’re a SADC cit­i­zen, in­clud­ing all meals and a boat cruise. GPS: S15.25914 E25.97057 00 260 971 807 226; 00 260 974 521 111; kasabushi.word­

go! says: Read the Kasabushi blog for Ka­fue news. They have their fin­ger on the pulse. 117 Mayukuyuku Bush Camp You have to pay park fees (see side­bar). This is one of the most ac­ces­si­ble camps, even if you’re driv­ing a sedan – it’s an 8 km drive along a gravel road from the M9 tar road. There are six big, sandy camp­ing stands with shade spread through­out the camp. Some are close to the river. Fire­wood is supplied and the bath­rooms have hot show­ers. Camp­ing US$25 (R320) per per­son.

There are also four en suite safari tents over­look­ing the river: US$375 (R4 806) per per­son, in­clud­ing all meals. Campers can or­der meals at the restau­rant. Boat cruises for game view­ing or fish­ing, and guided game drives can be ar­ranged. GPS: S14.91696 E26.06482 00 260 977 721 284 (Mary/Pippa); 118 KaingU Safari Lodge This lodge is on the eastern bank of the Ka­fue River just out­side the park. There are an­i­mals in the area and a boat can take you across the river for a game drive in the park. You can also visit KaingU from the west­ern bank of the river – leave your ve­hi­cle there and they’ll trans­port you to the lodge by boat. If you want to drive, it’s about 96 km along a gravel road from the M9 tar road – the fi­nal stretch re­quires a 4x4 or a ve­hi­cle


All th­ese ac­tiv­i­ties can be booked via Safari Par Ex­cel­lence 00 260 213 320 606; saf­

Sun­set cruise on the Zam­bezi River: US$55 – 75 (R706 – R963) per per­son for two hours. Dif­fer­ent pack­ages avail­able. Rate in­cludes snacks and some drinks. Break­fast and lunch cruises also avail­able. Pad­dle trip: US$110 (R1 412) per per­son for half a day; mul­ti­day op­tions also avail­able. White-water raft­ing: US$150 (R1 926) per per­son for half a day; multi- day op­tions also avail­able. Mi­cro­light flight: US$185 (R2 375) for 15 min­utes. He­li­copter flight: US$195 (R2 503) for 15 min­utes. with high ground clear­ance. (See the web­site for all the ways to get to the lodge dur­ing the wet and dry sea­sons.)

Three camp­ing stands on the water, with grass and shade: US$25 (R320) per adult; free for chil­dren un­der 12. You get one bun­dle of fire­wood per day and you can or­der fresh bread and ice from the lodge kitchen. You can also book meals at the lodge.

Other ac­com­mo­da­tion in­cludes six en suite safari tents, and a house. Rates from US$490 (R6 282) per adult per day; US$245 (R3 140) per child un­der 12 – rate in­cludes all meals, park fees and some ac­tiv­i­ties. GPS: S15.29777 E25.97835 No phone con­nec­tion; send an e­mail info@kaingu­; kaingu­

go! says: It takes some ef­fort to get here, but your ef­fort will be re­warded. Go on a river cruise and look for birds and hip­pos in the rapids.

119 Hippo Bay

You have to pay park fees. On the south­ern shore of the Itezhi­Tezhi Dam. Camp­ing US$20 (R256) per per­son. Chalets US$100 (R1 277) per per­son. Rates to go up in midNovem­ber 2017. You can bring your own boat if you’re se­ri­ous about fish­ing. The camp is man­aged by the same peo­ple as the lux­ury Konko­moya Lodge next door. Guided game drives avail­able. GPS: S15.86794 E25.88196

00 260 962 841364; hip­pobay; konko­

120 Musungwa Safari Lodge

Close to the Itezhi­Tezhi Dam, just out­side the Musa gate of Ka­fue Na­tional Park. Camp­ing K100 (R146) per per­son. Self­ca­ter­ing unit from K300 (R438) per per­son – min­i­mum four peo­ple. Dis­counts for chil­dren aged 3 – 12. Meals avail­able. GPS: S15.78344 E26.00582 00 260 966 876 522;

121 Nanzhila Plains

You have to pay park fees. This lodge is south of the dam, in an area with lots of game. Rates de­pend on the sea­son. Novem­ber 2017: US$175 (R2 234) per per­son for self­drive tourists (in­clud­ing all meals). See their web­site for spe­cial of­fers. GPS: S16.27908 E25.91792


Liv­ing­stone is the heart­beat of the tourism in­dus­try in this cor­ner of Zam­bia. Vic Falls is just a few kilo­me­tres from the CBD. (See map on page 104.) There are ac­com­mo­da­tion op­tions in and around town, and up­stream from the wa­ter­fall if you want some peace and quiet.

122 Jolly­boys Back­pack­ers & Camp

The back­packer place is for younger trav­ellers; the camp is more suited to fam­i­lies. ( They’re both in Liv­ing­stone, about 2 km apart.) Camp­ing at Jolly­boys Back­pack­ers US$9 (R118) per per­son; dorm ac­com­mo­da­tion from US$15 (R196) per per­son; three-sleeper room with shared ablu­tion fa­cil­i­ties US$50 (R651); dou­ble en suite room US$65 (R846) per night. Camp­ing at Jolly­boys Camp US$7 (R92) per per­son; dou­ble room with shared ablu­tion fa­cil­i­ties US$45 (R586) per night; dou­ble room with pri­vate bath­room US$55 (R716) per night. Four-sleeper fam­ily room US$80 (R1 041) per night. Back­pack­ers GPS: S17.848009 E25.85422 Camp GPS: S17.85496 E25.86169 00 260 213 324 229 (back­pack­ers); 00 260 213 324 756 (camp); back­pack­zam­

123 Maramba River Lodge

This af­ford­able lodge is about 5 km south of town, along the tar road that goes to the bor­der post and Vic Falls. Maramba is on a small branch of the Zam­bezi River and ele­phants of­ten move through the camp. Camp­ing US$10 (R131) per adult; US$5 (R66) per child aged 6 – 11; free for chil­dren un­der 6. Tents with beds US$61 (R794) per night for two peo­ple. Safari tents US$107 (R1 392) per night for two peo­ple. Chalets US$135 (R1 756) per night for two peo­ple. You can book ac­tiv­i­ties here. GPS: S17.88912 E25.85521 00 260 213 324 189; maramba-zam­

124 The Vic­to­ria Falls Water­front

This lodge is about 5 km south of Liv­ing­stone, next to the Zam­bezi. Camp­ing US$13 (R170) per per­son. Per­ma­nent tent US$45 (R586) per night for two adults; chil­dren aged 3 – 11 get a dis­count; free for chil­dren un­der 3. Four-sleeper fam­ily room US$230 (R2 992) per night, break­fast in­cluded. Th­ese are the low-sea­son rates. The lodge has swim­ming pools, a bar and a pizza oven on the deck. It’s also the Saf­par head of­fice, where you can book all your adren­a­line out­ings. GPS: S17.88649 E25.84309 00 260 213 320 606; the­vic­to­ri­afall­swa­ter­

125 Camp Nk­wazi

This camp is on the Zam­bezi River about 25 km west of Liv­ing­stone. The camp­site has 13 stands of var­i­ous sizes (2 – 8 ve­hi­cles) with power, braai fa­cil­i­ties and hot show­ers. Camp­ing US$25 (R324) per adult; US$20 (R259) per child aged 4 – 12. Self-ca­ter­ing can­vas chalet US$125 (R1 618) per per­son shar­ing. River House US$660 (R8 539) per night for up to six peo­ple. Op­tions with meals in­cluded also avail­able. Dis­counts for chil­dren. River cruise US$35 (R423) per per­son.


The en­trance fee to see the falls on the Zam­bian side is US$20 (R257) per per­son.


Anelé van Wyk, Klein­mond “This was my first visit to Vic Falls. I’d seen pho­tos of the wa­ter­fall be­fore, of course, but wasn’t pre­pared for the three-di­men­sional ex­pe­ri­ence. You hear, see and feel this nat­u­ral wonder.” GPS: S17.83046 E25.64547 00 260 97 304 8830 (Kevin);

126 Jun­gle Junc­tion

This no-frills river camp has been in busi­ness since 1993. It’s on Bovu Is­land in the Zam­bezi, about 50 km west of Liv­ing­stone. Camp­ing US$10 (R131) per per­son. There are also four chalets with views of the river and four smaller fish­er­man’s huts. The chalets sleep two adults, but mat­tresses can be ar­ranged for young kids: US$35 (R456) per per­son. Fish­er­man’s hut US$25 (R326) per per­son. There’s no power and you have to bring your own tow­els. Meals avail­able, from US$7 (R92) per per­son. Hire a mokoro and go fish­ing: US$10 (R131) per day. GPS: S17.86006 E25.52142

00 260 978 725 282 (Brett; send an SMS be­cause cell­phone re­cep­tion is patchy);

jun­gle­junc­ VIC FALLS, ZIM­BABWE Vic Falls at­tracts tourists from all over the world. (See map on page 104.) Busi­ness is done in dol­lars so check the price on the menu be­fore you or­der a burger… 127 Vic­to­ria Falls Rest Camp This is the old mu­nic­i­pal re­sort and still one of the best places in Vic Falls. It’s pretty much in the middle of town, but fenced in and there’s se­cu­rity. It’s a short walk to the shops and also to the wa­ter­fall. There’s a pool and a de­cent restau­rant. Camp­ing is pricy. A stand with a power point costs US$16 (R209) per adult and US$12 (R157) per child, plus US$9 (R118) per ve­hi­cle. Or stay in a per­ma­nent dome tent with beds, from US$40 (R521) per night for two peo­ple. Twin-sleeper chalet from US$46 (R599) per night; foursleeper chalet from US$86 (R1 119). Four-sleeper self- ca­ter­ing house from US$161 (R2 095) per night. Rates are higher dur­ing cer­tain peak hol­i­day times. GPS: S17.92533 E25.83775 00 263 13 40509; vic­fall­srest­ 128 Lor­rie’s Bed and Break­fast Lush gar­dens are a fea­ture of Vic Falls be­cause of the sub­trop­i­cal cli­mate. The gar­den at Lor­rie’s is one of the best – there’s also a pool. Foursleeper room from US$200 (R2 602); twin-sleeper from US$68 (R885) per per­son. Both rates in­clude break­fast. Air con­di­tion­ing costs US$10 (R131) ex­tra per room per night. GPS: S17.92488 E25.82331 00 263 712 406 584 (Lor­rie/Clive); lor­ries­be­dand­break­ 129 Ba­tonka Guest Lodge This is a stylish-look­ing place with 22 dou­ble rooms: US$300 (R3 901) per room per night for two peo­ple, break­fast in­cluded. They have a pool,


Book the ac­tiv­i­ties listed be­low through Wild Hori­zons: 00 263 13 44571; wild­hori­ En­quire about dis­counts for chil­dren. Fly­ing Fox: You wear a har­ness con­nected to a steel ca­ble and “fly” across the 200 m-wide Ba­toka Gorge. US$42 (R539) per per­son. Zi­pline: Slide across Ba­toka Gorge in a har­ness at­tached to a ca­ble. US$68,50 (R879) per per­son. Gorge swing: A lit­tle scarier than the zi­pline – you freefall be­fore swing­ing over the gorge. US$94,50 (R1 213) per per­son. Canopy tour: Ex­plore the river­ine for­est on the banks of the Zam­bezi. US$53 (R680) per per­son. White-water raft­ing: Ride the rapids down­stream from Vic Falls. US$120 (R1 540) per per­son.

Con­tact Shear­wa­ter if you’d like to do one of the ac­tiv­i­ties be­low:

00 263 13 44471; shear­wa­ter vic­to­ri­ Bungee jump: Don’t look down! You jump off an old rail­way bridge with Vic Falls at your back. US$120 (R1 540) per per­son. He­li­copter flight over Vic Falls: US$150 (R1 925) per per­son for the so-called “Flight of the An­gels”. High­lights pack­age: US$250 (R3 208) per per­son for the “Full Monty”, which in­cludes a sun­set cruise on the Zam­bezi River, a he­li­copter flight and guided tours to the rail­way bridge and the wa­ter­fall.

Visit vic­to­ri­ for more in­for­ma­tion. a bar and a restau­rant. The lodge is 2,2 km from the falls, so you can walk, but bear in mind that it’s up­hill on the way back. GPS: S17.92939 E25.82799 00 263 13 46923; ba­tonk­aguest­

130 Vic­to­ria Falls Back­pack­ers

This place is in the quiet, res­i­den­tial sub­urb part of town, about 2,5 km from the falls. Camp­ing is well priced: US$10 (R131) per per­son for a stand with a power point. There’s a com­mu­nal kitchen and wash­ing-up fa­cil­ity. You can also or­der food.

Dome tent with beds US$40 (R521) per night for two peo­ple; back­pack­ers’dorm US$18 (R235) per per­son; dou­ble room with shared bath­room US$50 (R651) per night; en suite dou­ble room US$60 (R781). GPS: S17.92231 E25.82595 00 263 13 42209; vic­to­ri­afalls­back­pack­

131 Drifters Green­fire Lodge Vic­to­ria Falls

This place is in a res­i­den­tial area, in a quiet back street, but still close to the shops. They have 18 rooms and a pool. B&B R650 per per­son shar­ing. The rate will go up to R675 per per­son in 2018. You can book any Vic Falls ac­tiv­i­ties from here. GPS: S17.92236 E25.82790

011 888 1160;

132 Vic­to­ria Falls Ho­tel

Ac­com­mo­da­tion here is ex­pen­sive – the ho­tel is listed more as an at­trac­tion. Sit on the wide ve­ran­dah and or­der tea or a Zam­bezi Lager. The view is awe­some: Ba­toka Gorge, with bil­low­ing con­den­sa­tion from the falls in the back­ground, and the rail­way bridge con­nect­ing Zim­babwe to Zam­bia – the epit­ome of the Bri­tish colo­nial dream of con­nect­ing Cape Town to Cairo.

The ho­tel was built in 1904. Check out the old pho­tos and an­tiques in­side. If you’re lucky, pi­anist Harry Maseko will be play­ing some mu­sic. Twin room from US$401 (R5 218) per night in case you’ve won the lotto. GPS: S17.92989 E25.84190 00 263 13 44751; vic­to­ri­afall­ This park is wild even though it’s close to the town of Vic Falls. It has river views and game in abun­dance.

133 Zam­bezi Na­tional Park lodge & camp­ing

Park fees: Day vis­i­tors US$8 (R104) per adult; US$4 (R52) per child aged 6 – 12; US$10 (R131) per ve­hi­cle.

There’s a lodge in the park, on your right as you drive through the gate. A four-sleeper self-ca­ter­ing unit costs US$138 (R1 785) per night.

Deeper into the park there are fish­ing camps (Kan­da­har, Sian­simba, Mpala Jena) and wilder­ness camps (Chundu, Cho­muzi, Si­a­mu­nungu). Camp­ing costs US$17 (R220) per per­son and the fa­cil­i­ties are very ba­sic. The fish­ing camps have cold show­ers and flush toi­lets; the wilder­ness camps have pit toi­lets and the odd braai place. Max­i­mum of 12 peo­ple per camp.

The park is home to ele­phant, lion, buf­falo and leop­ard, plus herds of sable an­te­lope, eland, ze­bra, gi­raffe, kudu and smaller game.

If you overnight in the park, you pay the same park fee as day vis­i­tors, but only as a one- off for up to a week’s stay. GPS: S17.89999 E25.81710 (park gate) Book­ings: 00 263 470 6077; book­ings@zim­; zim­ Park of­fice: 00 263 13 422 94 ( Tafadzwa)

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