Indonesia
“These dive sites are generally long, sandy slopes, and as conditions are usually very calm, divers can start their dives deep, and slowly make their way to the shallows.”
The planet’s epicentre of marine biodiversity, Indonesia is home to the widest variety of sea life found anywhere on Earth. With over 17,500 islands occupying the middle of the famed
Coral Triangle, Indonesia is a diver’s and underwater photographer’s dream destination.
A quarter of the world’s fish species and a fifth of the coral population are found in the rich tropical oceans surrounding Indonesia’s thousands of islands. Beautiful and fascinating both above and below the water’s surface, the country is a unique blend of adventure and authentic island culture, making it the perfect tropical getaway for any traveller, diver or otherwise.
Being in the heart of the Coral
Triangle means divers can be assured that the marine life here is unlike that found anywhere else. From Pulau Weh in the west to Raja Ampat in the east, and beyond, Indonesian dive sites have a little bit of everything for every diver: From deep water trenches and volcanic seamounts to World War II wrecks and an endless variety of macro life, the (underwater) world is your oyster.
And with a vast range of dive sites suitable for divers of a variety of levels, anyone is able to experience Indonesia’s spectacular underwater realm.
BALI GETTING THERE
Being a tourist hub, travelling to Bali is easy. There are countless flights into Ngurah Rai International Airport (also known as Denpasar International Airport) from all over the world. The airport is in South Kuta district, around 13 kilometres from the capital.
MARINE LIFE
Manta rays, Mola mola, barracuda, giant trevally, reef sharks, turtles, pipefish, mimic octopuses, cuttlefish, nudibranchs, frogfish, scorpionfish, pygmy seahorses
“All across the island, you can find resorts and dive centres that will be able to start you off on your diving adventures.”
Known as the “Island of the Gods”, Bali is an extremely popular tourist destination, famous not just for its cheap food and relaxing beaches, but also for its crystalclear waters, vibrant coral reefs and stunning marine life. One of the top dive destinations in Indonesia, Bali offers endless opportunities for divers of all levels, from total newbies to the most advanced divers.
Bali is split into three separate diving zones where you’ll be able to enjoy different dive conditions and experiences:
1.South (Nusa Penida, Nusa
Lembongan, Sanur)
2.East Coast (Padangbai
Candidasa, Tulamben, Amed) 3.Northwest Coast (Menjangan Island, Permutaran, Lovina, Gilimanuk)
Bali is a popular choice for newly certified divers or for those who are just starting their diving introductory courses.
All across the island, you can find resorts and dive centres that will be able to start you off on your diving adventures. This is also a great destination for those who are looking to further their qualifications beyond the open water course.
Perhaps Bali’s most famous and endearing marine creature is the Mola
mola. Otherwise known as the ocean sunfish, this curiously shaped creature is one of the heaviest known bony fishes in the world. The ocean sunfish is a common resident in Bali, and as its name suggests, it loves to soak up the sun’s rays near the surface, so there’s a good chance you’ll bump into one of these fascinating creatures on your dive adventure.
Diving in Bali is a veritable buffet – from shore diving and wreck diving to shallow reef dives and muck dives – you name it, they’ve got it, and with over 40 different dive sites to choose from, Bali leaves you spoilt for choice.
NUSA PENIDA
Found in the east, separated from Bali by the Badung Strait, Nusa Penida is one of three small islands in the area, the other two being Nusa Ceningan and Nusa Lembongan. The island is known for being the place for up-close encounters with manta rays and the Mola mola. The water flowing around the island wells up from the deep, and the temperature tends to be in the low-20s Celsius range to as cold as 15ᵒC, so 5mm wetsuits are recommended. The area should only be visited by experienced divers as currents can be strong and unpredictable. Some must-see dive sites include:
Manta Point
As its name suggests, this site is the best place to dive for an opportunity to see the majestic manta ray. The best part is that you’ll be able to encounter the mantas regardless of which season you head to this dive site. Manta Point is located on the southwest corner of Nusa Penida.
Crystal Bay
If you’re keen to catch a glimpse of the famous Mola mola, this is the best place to be. Stunning coral reefs can also be found here at a depth of around 15 to 20 metres.
The best chance of encountering the ocean sunfish is between July and mid-November.
Toyapakeh
A favourite amongst the local dive guides, this site has an abundance of corals and marine life, as well as having a reputation for great visibility. Its main features are the stunning coral pillars, large schools of fish, and big gorgonian sea fans. Keep in mind, however, that the currents can change quickly here, so it is important to stay close to your dive guide. Sental
This dive site is an entire stretch of stunning, healthy coral reef that stretches across most of the northern coast of Nusa Penida. The reef starts in the shallows and drops to a depth of 15 to 20 metres. Many visit this spot for drift diving, where you can spot marine life such as pufferfish, turtles and reef sharks.
TULAMBEN
The small fishing village of Tulamben is located on the northeastern coast and has remained largely undeveloped compared to other tourists spots in Bali. Many divers visit Tulamben as a day trip to see the USAT Liberty, one of the best and most accessible wreck dive sites anywhere. Another favourite is Tulamben Bay’s Drop-Off, an old lava flow from Mount Agung populated with sharks, wrasses, cuttlefish, and moray eels, as well as countless macro critters.
Liberty Wreck
The USAT Liberty was a cargo vessel that served in both World War I and II before being struck by a Japanese torpedo in January 1942 whilst it was docked on a beach near Tulamben. After the eruption of Mount Agung in 1963, the 139-metre-long vessel slipped off the beach and sank, now lying on a sandy slope at a depth of
9 to 30 metres. Divers can expect to encounter marine life such as big-eyed trevally, jackfish, barracuda, lizardfish, and gobies. The wreck is great for night dives as well.
Tulamben Wall
The site also known as the DropOff starts as a steep sand slope that develops into an impressive reef, which becomes a vertical wall, from around 15 metres to below 60 metres, festooned with sponges, black coral bushes, and gorgonian fans. Octopuses, scorpionfish, frogfish, crabs and shrimps can be found between the rocks and corals, while whitetip reef sharks, Napoleon wrasses, and manta rays patrol nearby. You might even experience a whale shark, Mola mola or dogtooth tuna dropping in for a visit.
SULAWESI
GETTING THERE
The main port of entry for Sulawesi is Makassar, the capital of South Sulawesi province, which is serviced by Sultan Hasanuddin International Airport. Manado, the main gateway to Northern Sulawesi, is a secondary hub, with Sam Ratulangi Airport servicing both international and domestic airlines.
MARINE LIFE Turtles, Mola mola, whale sharks, ribbon eels, barracuda, sea snakes, wonderpuses, banded sea kraits, blue-ringed octopus, frogfish, mandarinfish, ornate ghost pipefish, nudibranchs, mantis shrimp Situated east of Borneo, Sulawesi comprises several long peninsulas surrounding a mountainous centre. The waters around Sulawesi are known amongst divers for their stunning reefs, and popular dive spots include Bunaken National Park, the Togian Islands, and Wakatobi National Park. Previously known as Celebes, the island is one of the four Greater Sunda Islands.
Like Bali, Sulawesi has a lot to offer to dive enthusiasts, and no matter your diving preference, this sprawling island – with its winding coastline totalling more than 6,000 kilometres – has something for everyone. Sulawesi lies within the heart of the Coral Triangle and is surrounded by deep oceans, making it especially popular amongst deep diving divers. The strong currents that come from the depths bring about nutrient-rich water close to the shore, creating a stunning, self-sustaining coral environment bristling with life. The coral reefs and walls are also generally found close to the shoreline, making this a great destination for beginner divers.
“Sulawesi lies within the heart of the Coral Triangle and is surrounded by deep oceans, making it especially popular amongst deep diving divers.”
TOGIAN ISLANDS
An archipelago of over 56 islands and islets, the Togian Islands is located in the middle of the Gulf of Tomini, which is just off the coast of central Sulawesi. The islands receive relatively few international tourists, and the reefs have remained in pristine condition, so the archipelago is a great alternative to other busier dive destinations in Sulawesi.
B-24 Bomber Wreck
This exceptional wreck was an American B-24 bomber used during WWII that crash-landed in Tomini Bay on May 3, 1945, after an engine fire. Remaining largely intact, the plane is 17 metres long and 22 metres wide, and lies upright at a depth of 22 metres. The bomber is now home to hundreds of bigeye trevally, creating a never-ending circular wall of silver, while the tail wings are a refuge for lionfish and batfish.
Dominic Rock
Definitely one for those that are more experienced and looking for a challenging and adventurous dive, this site is not for the faint of heart nor for those who suffer from vertigo. Found around Una Una, an active volcano that last erupted in 1984, Dominic Rock features a drop-off that starts at 25 metres and goes down as far as 40 metres and beyond. You’ll encounter marine life such as groupers, snappers, barracuda, moray eels and various species of sharks.
WAKATOBI NATIONAL PARK Declared a national park back in 1996, Wakatobi encompasses the largest barrier reef in the region, and as such boasts some of the world’s highest coral reef biodiversity. The name of the park is derived from the names of the four main islands – Wangi-Wangi, Kaledupa, Tomia, and Binongko – all of which feature some of the most pristine reef and wall diving around. The highly protected area offers more than 40 dive sites to choose from. Here are some of the best picks:
Roma
This dive site is most suited to beginner divers and features an elegant coral garden teeming with marine life, including nudibranchs, pyramid butterflyfish, sergeant majors, snappers, banded sea snakes, rabbitfish, and even turtles.
House Reef
Considered by many as among the very best of its kind in the world, Wakatobi Resort’s house reef is right off the beach. Perfect not just for divers but snorkellers as well, this sublime seascape transitions gradually from knee-deep shallows to a depth of around two metres before further descending to around 12 metres. An explosion of colour and biodiversity, coupled with the proximity and accessibility of the reef, it’s no wonder this dive site has seen divers returning year after year.
Coral Garden
This aptly named dive site is a giant bowl, 40 metres across, covered in corals. Suitable for divers of all levels, it offers an incredible array of coral formations at various depths and an endless parade of marine critters. You may encounter schools of trevally and snapper, moray eels, sea snakes, turtles and various species of rays.
Cornucopia
The Great Wall of Cornucopia, to give this dive site its full name, is among the most colourful of all of Wakatobi’s impressive precipices. With a dramatic vertical profile adorned with soft corals of every imaginable hue, the reef provides shelter for a vast range of critters to keep macro photographers busy, but you can also expect to encounter pelagics such as whitetips, nurse sharks, eagle rays and mobula rays.
Due to the currents, this site is usually recommended only for advanced divers.
“Lembeh is separated from the mainland by the famous Lembeh Strait, renowned for its extremely high density of rare and unusual marine life.”
LEMBEH
GETTING THERE
The closest airport to Lembeh is
Sam Ratulangi International Airport in Manado, which is easy to get to from Bali, Jakarta and other cities within Indonesia, as well as via international flights. From Manado, depending on which side of the strait you are headed, you can take either a car or boat to your accommodations. MARINE LIFE Hairy frogfish; blue-ringed, mimic, coconut and wunderpus octopuses; pygmy seahorses; bobbit worms; stargazers; harlequin, tiger and emperor shrimps; ghost pipefish; giant moray eels, and much more An island off the northeast coast of Sulawesi, near the city of Bitung, Lembeh is 25 kilometres long and just two kilometres wide, and separated from the mainland by the famous Lembeh Strait, renowned for its extremely high density of rare and unusual marine life.
With its dark volcanic sand, broken coral, and discarded manmade objects, the strait is known as the “muck” capital of the world, and as such, it is a magnet for macro photographers everywhere. Look hard enough and you’ll find some of the planet’s rarest and strangest critters hiding among the old bottles and cans, dead tree branches, and occasional anemones.
Visibility averages around six metres, currents can be strong and unpredictable, and a careless fin kick raises a cloud of fine silt that takes an eternity to settle – these are conditions that are best suited to more-experienced divers obsessed with finding and photographing the craziest critters in the oceans.
Jahir
A relatively new dive site that was named after the dive guide who first found it, Jahir offers the archetypal Lembeh experience: cruising over the black volcanic sand in search of the weird and the wonderful. It makes an excellent day dive, but it’s even more exciting at night, when the beam of your torch will pick out all sorts of fascinating critters crying out to be photographed. Spot delicate zebra crabs among the spines of purple heart urchins, the grumpy visage of a half-buried stargazer, and a spectacular variety of frogfishes, pipefishes and octopuses.
Makawide
Found between two large boulders rising out of the ocean, Makawide offers divers an amazing opportunity to glide over coral patches as the gradual slopes descend below the Lembeh Strait. With a depth of 15 to 25 metres, the site is also a popular spot for underwater photographers as you are able to capture rare marine life such as seahorses and ghost pipefishes.
Pantai Parigi
The only white sand muck dive site found along the strait, this bay can be found on Lembeh Island itself and features an exceptionally healthy and dense coral cover along the shallows that descends into a gentle white sand slope. The dive begins at a depth of five metres, and divers can expect to find pipefishes and nudibranchs such as Chromodoris
magnifica among the coral blocks. Towards the deeper part of the site, the white sand gives way to black sand hiding critters such as frogfish, Pegasus sea moths, and mimic octopuses. The site is also home to the beautiful – and deadly – blueringed octopus, a highly sought-after prize for underwater shooters.
Mawali Wreck
Beyond the rubble and black sand, Lembeh also offers divers the opportunity to explore a couple of interesting shipwrecks. The most notable is the Mawali Wreck, a Japanese World War II steel cargo ship that lies on its side on the seabed at depths ranging from 15 to 30 metres. This 60-metre-long structure is home to a wide variety of marine life, including large scorpionfish and lionfish, as well as the occasional barramundi. The wreck is encrusted with crinoids, black coral trees and soft corals.
AMBON ISLAND
GETTING THERE
Ambon Island is best accessed directly via a flight from Jakarta or from the South Sulawesi capital city of Makassar via Sultan Hasanuddin International Airport. Another possibility is through Surabaya via Juanda International Airport. MARINE LIFE Psychedelic frogfish, octopuses, cuttlefish, clown frogfish, hairy frogfish, mandarinfish, pygmy seahorses, exotic nudibranchs, crabs and shrimps, seahorses, scorpionfish, Napoleon wrasses, hammerhead sharks Perched on the northern edge of the Banda Sea, Ambon Island lies on the volcanic arc known as the “Ring of Fire”. Separating the island into two peninsulas, Ambon Bay was once at the heart of the spice trade, “Perched on the northern edge of the Banda Sea, Ambon Island lies on the volcanic arc known as the ‘Ring of Fire’.” and the island was fought over by colonial powers, but these waters now enjoy a reputation as the home of some of the best muck diving in Indonesia – indeed anywhere on the planet. The city of Ambon is the bustling capital of the Maluku province.
Peter Bleaker, a Dutch ichthyologist (someone who studies all aspects of fish biology including anatomy, behaviour and environment, and how fish interact with other organisms), is credited with being the first person to dive Ambon Bay, in 1863. Bleaker discovered some 783 different species of fish, more than you would find in the whole of Thailand, so it was perhaps inevitable that Ambon would become a major critter hotspot, known for rare finds such as the Ambon scorpionfish and the Halimeda ghost pipefish.
Ambon’s most popular sites are the muck sites of Ambon Bay, which are concentrated along the northern coast of the bay. These dive sites are generally long, sandy slopes, and as conditions are usually very calm, divers can start their dives deep, and slowly make their way to the shallows. Outside the bay’s muck dive opportunities, you can expect to find corals, walls and large swim-throughs, but the vast majority of divers you’ll meet have come for the critter hunt, armed with their cameras and macro lenses.
Laha
Located about three kilometres within the bay, along the northern coast, Laha is probably the best macro dive site in Ambon. Named after a small fishing village, Laha is some to some of the rarest and most intriguing critters in the ocean. Among the weird and wonderful, you’ll find Rhinopias, frogfish, ghost pipefish and unusual species of octopuses, crustaceans and nudibranchs.
Rhino City
Found directly west of Laha, this dive site is named after Rhinopias, the rare, cryptic weedy scorpionfish that can often be found in the area. Rhino City is an extension of the already existing sandy slope of Laha and is dotted with anemones, usually of the carpet or bulb-tentacle variety. This dive site is also to home to indigenous species of anemonefish, which are refuges for anemone shrimps and porcelain crabs.
Hukurila Cave
Just off the coast of Leitimur, close to Hukurila Beach, is Hukurila Cave. To access the underwater cave, divers are required to squeeze through tight gaps around two to three metres wide. Upon entry to the cave, divers descend to a depth of around 20 metres to explore the impressive coral growth and large schools of fish.
Pintu Kota
Located about an hour’s boat ride from Ambon Bay, Pintu Kota, or
“City Gate”, takes its name from a series of arches reminiscent of large underwater gates, found at a depth of around 17 metres. This is a prime spot for those who are interested in muck diving and macro photography, but there are various other marine creatures to see, including moray eels, pufferfish, parrotfish, snappers, big-eyed trevally and sweetlips.
Ambon Shipwreck
Located just 12 metres below the waterline, this mysterious wreck is some 134 metres long and 17 metres wide and lies facing down the slope of the harbour. Its foredeck can be found at a depth of 32 metres whilst the bow is at over 40 metres. The wreck is considered “mysterious” because very little is known about the vessel or how it ended up where it is, but the story goes that the wreck is the remains of a Dutch cargo ship that was deliberately sunk during WWII to prevent the Japanese from taking control of it. As the site is situated in a busy part of the harbour, visibility isn’t great, but as the wreck is mostly intact, it makes an impressive wide-angle backdrop.
ALOR ISLAND
GETTING THERE
Flights to Alor are via Kupang, the capital of East Nusa Tenggara, which is well connected to major Indonesian hubs like Jakarta, Denpasar (Bali) or Surabaya. From Kupang, there are several airlines that fly to Mali Airport in Kalabahi, Alor Island’s main town. Allow ample transit time, as flights tend to get delayed. MARINE LIFE Turtles; blacktip, whitetip and grey reef sharks; small spotted stingrays; dogtooth tuna; barracuda; giant trevally; Napolean wrasses; schools of jacks, trevallies and fusiliers; frogfishes; giant reef cuttlefish; manta rays; Mola mola; moray eels; pufferfish Alor Island is the biggest of the 20 islands that make up the Alor Archipelago, which is home to more than 212,000 people divided into 134 tribes. Located at the eastern Lesser Sunda Islands, Alor may not be as popular as neighbouring destinations such as Raja Ampat and Komodo, but this tiny island offers equally fascinating underwater treats.
Alor Island has a reputation as one of Indonesia’s far-flung gems, with a world-class mix of pristine reefs, abundant fish life,
“Alor may not be as popular as neighbouring destinations such as Raja Ampat and Komodo, but this tiny island offers equally fascinating underwater treats.”
and fascinating topography, including walls, overhangs, slopes, and canyons. It is also known for unbelievable visibility – waters so clear they rival those of Raja Ampat. The health of the corals is partly due to the remoteness of the archipelago, but it’s also because the locals have made a concerted effort to ensure that the reefs are protected from overfishing.
There are more than 50 dive sites surrounding the main islands of Alor and Pantar. Conditions are mostly suited to experienced divers who are comfortable with strong and unpredictable currents. Water temperatures are also very variable, so at least a 5mm wetsuit is recommended to help you cope with the cold upwellings. Clown Valley
The top pick at Alor Island, Clown Valley – as the name suggests – has the highest concentration of clownfish in the world. Also known as Anemone City or Anemone Valley, this dive site is located just a few hundred metres from the village of Apuri and is an anemone heaven. Additionally, descending to the dive site occurs gradually and gently, allowing divers to soak in the beauty of the site. As well as Nemo, you can encounter nudibranchs, shrimps, lobsters, and if you’re lucky, thresher sharks, hammerheads and
Mola mola.
Babylon
This shallow reef is a combination of soft and hard coral and got its name from the overhangs on the wall. The reef wall begins shallow before dropping off to around 28 metres with most of the marine action being between 15 to 25 metres. You can encounter all kinds of reef fish, including blue-ribbon eels and various frogfish species, and the occasional ocean sunfish may also make an appearance.
Kal’s Dream
A true wide-angle shooter’s dream, this dive site promises plenty of big pelagics and large fish schools. Named after Kal Mueller, the author of Underwater Indonesia and Diving
Indonesia, this site is a colourful coralcrusted seamount. The submerged pinnacle starts at a depth of just five metres and typically attracts giant barracudas, moray eels, blacktip sharks and even large hammerheads.
The Cathedral
One of the best sites at Alor Island, The Cathedral is home to a rich variety of colourful fish and unique reefs covered with kelp. Found at the southernmost region in the Pantar Strait, the site is a swim-through at 35 metres that exits at around 20 metres. It is rumoured that hundreds of Mola mola inhabit the deep waters here, making this an excellent place to catch a glimpse of these elusive creatures. You may also encounter pelagic animals such as eagle rays, sea snakes and sharks. The dive is usually only recommended for highly experienced divers, as there are deep surges of water and strong currents.