HAXTRAX - Greg Hackett

Hot, hungry and with a hankering to try something new, the chilled little jars of what looks like raspberry jam in Duong Dong township’s new “super duper supermarket” look most inviting. Being a self proclaimed ‘Food Test Dummy’, I’ll try just about any food once. The jar labels are in Russian but it’s the little fish motifs that look, well, kind of ‘fishy’ for Baltic jam. Maybe it’s fish roe? That can’t be too bad? Suddenly a large arm shoots out, points to the jar in my hand, and a gravelly Russian voice warns: “Nyet! Nyet!” Thank you for the advice, kind sir. I put the jar back on the shelf. I ask my new shopping benefactor if he speaks English, but he just shrugs and walks off as I’m offering to buy him a beer in gratitude. *Sigh* If only these Russians would just lighten up a bit.

BEST OF THE OLD & NEW

As time moves on, everything changes - and travel destinations are no exception. But we all have a duty to ensure that destinations are enhanced and not destroyed. Vietnam’s Phu Quoc island is an example of good development. Arguably, it’s the opposite to Cambodia’s Sihanoukville, where a seaside haven for Cambodians and foreigners was bulldozed to make way for mega hi-rise casino-hotels owned by/built by/staffed by/ and used by one nationality, China.

On Phu Quoc (pronounced “foowok”), Vietnam has preserved the existing nature of Duong Dong township, with markets, guesthouses and hotels catering for budget level and upwards. The island’s roadside restaurants, bars and food vendors are evidence that the “old appeal” of Southeast Asia is still alive and profitable. Along Long Beach, mediumsize hotels occupy the strip of land between the main road and the beach, shaded by palm trees and tropical plants (who doesn’t adore bougainvillea and frangipani?). Some are being refurbished, some are being demolished and replaced, but all are in keeping with the existing “look and feel” of a destination that wants to attract all visitors.

THE ‘PEACE, PALATE AND A POOL PACKAGE’

Successful tourism brings big, expansive resorts, catering for ‘package holidays’ and families/couples who want to relax, unpack once and have everything just outside the door: restaurants, bars, beach, swimming pools and tropical gardens. To Phu Quoc’s credit, the ‘old’ has not made way for the ‘new’. An international airport has been built 20 minutes’ drive (US$12 taxi fare) from Duong Dong, and further along the south-west Truong Beach is Novotel

Resort and Villas - part of CEO Group’s new 132-hectare ‘resort city’. Its neighbours include Sonasea and Best Western, with mini marts, restaurants, boutique shops and smaller hotels. To put it in perspective, that’s 2km of beachfront (which, importantly, allows public access) with 5-star rooms, bungalows and villas spread across tropical gardens. Wear your bathers, because walk in any direction for five minutes and you will be in a swimming pool.

THE NOVOTEL. SERENITY.

In keeping with the Accorhotels’ Novotel brand, everything is what and where you expect it to be: the bungalow is immaculate, the breakfast buffet is bountiful, the beach is breathtaking. The gardens are serene - if you were to lay down in the shade of a palm tree to drift away from life’s worries, and several hours should pass you by … well, don’t say you weren’t warned. The gardeners - correction, all of the staff - seem to enjoy what they do.

The resort is a credit to the General Manager, Australian Lee Pearce. The Novotel has the honour of being the first ‘big hotel’ built on the island and Mr Pearce took charge on its completion. In hospitality-speak, he has responsibility for 462 keys. That is a lot of accommodation, and it fits in the ‘good mix’ that makes Vietnam’s Phu Quoc island an enduring travel destination.

IN TUNE WITH MODERN TOURISM

Departure memory: Early evening on Phu Quoc at the mid-sized Kim Hoa Resort. At the beachfront Windy Bar (love that name), a Filipino music trio is doing a notable rendition of Julie Covington’s challenging Evita signature song, ‘Don’t Cry For Me Argentina’. A musical sunset on a beach on a tropical island in Vietnam. It all just seems to fit in place ...v

Greg Hackett stayed as a guest of Novotel. Follow Greg at haxtrax.com

VIETNAM’S PHU QUOC ISLAND IS A TOURISM TESTAMENT TO PROGRESS WITHOUT SACRIFICING THE LITTLE PEOPLE, WRITES GREG HACKETT