The Hidden Gems of Hat Yai

HAT YAI BECAME POPULAR FOR ITS NIGHT LIFE, BUT NOW HAS A GREAT DEAL MORE TO OFFER IN THE SOUTHERN THAI CITY AND ENVIRONS, WRITES FLOYD COWAN.

We were hardly 20 minutes from the airport, having just taken the onehour flight from Singapore to Hat Yai, Thailand. Our chartered bus stopped at a temple, the first of many places we’d visit in and around the southern Thai city.

SUPREME SERENITY

William Low was shepherding our small group and he directed me toward the temple. I turned to find myself looking into the cream coloured face of a huge reclining Buddha. Friendly looking fellow. Not the first time we’d met eye to eye.

The neighbourhood had changed in the four or five years since my last visit, but his eminence remained his charming self.

This is Wat Hat Yai Nai home to the third largest Reclining Buddha in Thailand. He has the supreme serenity you expect from Buddha, but at 35m long, presented me with problems. Had I been there just to give my regards there wouldn’t have been a problem, but I wanted to get a fulllength photo. Not possible as thick pillars block the view of his entirety.

CITY VIEWS

I circled the temple looking for interesting angles. At the back I found a door leading to a museum / souvenir shop beneath the Buddha. Here people buy amulets and plaques for good Karma. I envy them as I think my Karma is lazy. However, over the next few days it was to ease into a very good space as I travelled with Mrs Patsalin Swetarat Director Singapore & the Philippines and William Low Marketing Manager Tourism Authority of Thailand on a Fam Trip with writers and travel agents from Singapore. We got to enjoy the many hidden gems of this area.

Back on the bus we drove through Hat Yai to the Municipal Park and Khao Kho Hong a low-rise mountain, only 170m, but of sufficient height to see the city and surrounding verdant fields spread out like a green tablecloth. Our big bus couldn’t manage the hill, so we crowded into a small openair shuttle bus that took us up the winding road to the cable car.

MOUTH OF THE DRAGON

Across from the cable car entrance is Pang Buddha, a standing image of 19.9m. We would get to it after our trip across the valley to another peak with a collection of statues and images such as the three-headed elephant. At one time this was a very popular place with Singaporeans. On plaques throughout the park are the names of Singaporeans who have made donations. Firecrackers were constantly going off in a metal cage when somebody buys a string of them. They put an exclamation point into the afternoon as their distinctive aroma drifted in the air.

The Cable Car travels slowly from peak to peak giving you time to appreciate the view. Around the mountain there are a number of places to stop with various images such as the White Jade Kuan

Yin Shrine, the Goddess of Compassion and Mercy and the Four Faced Brahman Shrine. There is the Jade Emperor and the Fat Laughing Buddha that you get to by going through the mouth of a Golden Dragon.

DINNER WITH A VIEW

The park is a great attraction not just for tourists, but locals as well. While we rode to the various places on the hills and in the valleys a great number of people walked, ran and biked along the twisting narrow road through the forest. It is a good challenge for those wishing to keep fit. It had rained before we arrived and the jungle exuded freshness, scented by its many flowers and blossoms.

Bon Khao Restaurant takes advantage of not only great views but from the fresh seafood and spices abundant in this area. Dinner was a bounty of dishes starting with fish, then pork and duck and several kinds of vegetables.

TUT TUT IN A TUK TUK

One of our local guides, Malee, provided us information and advice as we drove from Bon Khao Restaurant to the hotel. She told us the prices for Thai massage and warned us to keep a close watch on our belongings as we enjoyed the street market. “If you get too far from the hotel and want to take a Tuk Tuk back it will only cost you B20. Be careful that you pronounce it correctly – it’s Tuk

Tuk not Tut Tut,” she stated in her lilting accent. “Tut Tut means Lady Boy. They are very pretty here, but will cost you much more than a Tuk Tuk ride.”

The great advantage of Centara Hotels

Resorts is that it is right in the middle of Hat

Yai. Spawning out from all sides in streets and alleys and shopping centres are markets and wet markets and all the night life you could want. There are spas, massage parlours, restaurants, cafes, karaoke and Western style bars. I’ve stayed in the Centara almost every time I’ve visited Hat Yai. Not the best rooms I’ve ever stayed in, but it does have a decent buffet breakfast.

LATE NIGHT EARLY MORNING

By the time I got checked in and caught up on my work, the Night Market, that dashed colours down main streets and narrow lanes, was beginning to close. After falling asleep during my one-hour foot massage, which costs about $S10.00, I returned to the work that was awaiting me in my room.

The following morning William had us up early and trailing through the market that was wet throughout because of the morning rain. The one-hour time difference between Singapore and Thailand made it easier to get up at 6:00am to have breakfast and then immerse ourselves in the market that was already awake and moving by the time we got there. I expected the wet market to be open early, but everybody was up and offering goods for sale.

KIM YONG WET MARKET

Kim Yong Wet Market is a great place to buy produce as well as local delicacies. My fellow travellers, all Singaporeans, were looking for special dishes that they enjoy for breakfast. They tried to find new and different snacks. And they did. A lady was slathering butter and sugar on squares of white bread and then grilling it. Ms Sze Siok Leng, ‘Millie’ Outbound Manager of ATG Tours, bought one and shared it around. “Give me a big bite!” she encouraged. It tasted quite good, but probably not the healthiest start for the day.

Inside, Kim Yong Market is very interesting and ancient. Narrow aisles, shaded stalls, dark corners throughout the old wooden building. Bare bulbs create pools of light. Spices and veggies, sweets and sours, dried goods in clear plastic, cashews and pistachios, cookies and biscuits. Not only is there food but souvenirs, toys for kids, and Ts and singlets, dresses and blouses, long shorts and short shorts. Household items.

BIG FAT CHICKEN

‘Big Fat Chicken’ is not a playground taunt but an excellent restaurant. The Thai name is Kai Tod Decha. It is a halal restaurant that serves far more than chicken. We had crab, fish, squid, mixed seafood salad, soup, rice and, of course, chicken. So flavourful. Soooo goooood. All for about S$20.00 per head. The food was so good that members of our group ordered take away that they would carry home to Singapore. I somehow was gifted a package from the restaurant that was greatly appreciated.

The rest of the day was for the Amazing Southern Thailand tabletop meeting between travel agents introducing each other to their products. Nithee Seeproe, Executive Director, Southern

Region, TAT, made an excellent presentation on this region, outlining destinations, activities and attractions, and who would be most likely to enjoy it. Food. Adventure. Scenic places. The Executive Director talked about drives one could take, islands to visit, shopping to do, festivals to get involved with.

In the evening was a Gala Dinner with the Minister of Tourism then it was back to the hotel and I was packing my bags for the trip to Koh Lipe.

SUBLIME SATUN

Returning from Koh Lipe we did not go directly to Hat Yai but explored Satun Province. We hit the mainland at 11:15am where we re-joined our bus that set course for Tan Yong Po one of three villages in a cluster near the coastal mangrove forest. The road we came in on is only 20 years old so before the year 2000 these villages were only accessible by boat. It’s no surprise that fishing is the industry here. We stopped at Ba Gan Kei community to see how they make shrimp paste, which they’ve been doing for four generations.

After we were instructed on the making of shrimp paste, we took a bimo down the road to Tanjung Buri, home stay and restaurant. We didn’t do an inspection of any of the 15 rooms, but they looked clean and simple. At B800 (S$35.00) per night – add another B100 for breakfast – it is a good deal.

SUCCULENT SEAFOOD

The real treat was the seafood lunch. Fresh. Right from the fishing boats and from tanks. Grown large and delicious it was enjoyed on the veranda looking towards the Andaman Sea. From here you can go island hopping with local operators available to take you out.

After lunch I walked along the water and down the long brightly coloured jetty. The forest continues to walk out into the sea with trees up to their waist long distances from terra firma.

As my companions lingered after lunch, I walked down the road towards where the bus was parked. I took a lot of pictures. Pictures of people lounging in hammocks tied to the pillars under their wooden homes. A cool shady place for an afterlunch nap. Old people just sitting. Children laughing and waving. Everyone friendly. I was so engrossed I missed the turn that would’ve taken me to the bus. When I realized I’d gone too far I turned and was soon greeted by Maktah, our new local guide, coming for me in the bimo.

SATUN SATUN

In a half hour the bus was in Satun, capital of the Province with the same name. A scenic drive through the forest clad mountains, past a cluster of monkeys, took us into the city. Maktah gave us some of the history of the area. He told us there are 320,000 people in the Province, 76% are Muslim. In the past 120 years or so Satun has been a Malay state known as the Kingdom of Setul Mambang Segara, then it belonged Siam, it was ruled by the British and then became a part of Thailand. That is the short version of its history.

Parking on Bureewanich Road (Route

406) across from Mambang Mosque, (Central Mosque) which was completed in 1975, we could immediately see that the town was a mixture of historic wood shops and houses and modern buildings. We walked through the grounds of the Mosque where a wedding was taking place. The bride graciously posed for pictures.

ART & ANTIQUES

We turned right on Satun Thani Road which was a stretch of historic buildings. Unfortunately, it was Sunday so most of the stores were closed. I would’ve liked to poke about in the antique store. Outside sits an old safe that came from London obviously many years back, and a very old fridge. I can only imagine what is inside.

At the corner with Satuntanee 1 Alley, at the Rotary International Park, is Satun Street Art with the buildings around it adorned with art. Art that is whimsical along with images from the town’s past.

Returning to the bus we passed one of the few places that was open. On’s (whom it is named after) offers everything from a bar, restaurant, accommodation and ferry tickets. Not only do they serve food, they sell antiques and collectibles. A patron with an enormous white beard almost looked as if he’d peeled himself off one the street art walls.

RETURN TO HAT YAI

We returned to Hat Yai and the Centara Hotel for our last night in the city. Our flight was in the afternoon which gave us the morning to re-visit Kim Yong Market and then explore the area. I bought pistachios for Farah – one of her favourite snacks.

It was a quick 40-minute drive to Nang Ngam Road before stopping at Samila Beach, a long swath of white sand in Songkhla, on the east coast. We strolled the beach checking out two monuments that are popular sites for selfies.

CAT & MOUSE & MERMAID

The well-known symbol of Songkhla, the cat and mouse monument, was my first stop. The legend behind the monument tells the story of a dog, a cat, and a mouse on a Chinese sampan that was sailing offshore. They conspired and stole the merchant’s magic crystal. Making their escape they tried to swim ashore, but drowned and lost their lives. The mouse and cat became the islands in Songkhla Lake while the dog died on shore and became the hill called Hin Khao Tang Kuan near the bay. The crystal was destroyed and became the white sandy beach called Hat Sai Kaeo.

There is no statue to the dog on the beach, but further along is the Golden Mermaid bronze statue. It was created by sculptor Jitr Buabus in 1966 to commemorate a famous saga written by Sunthorn Phu, a poet to King Rama

II. It is similar to

The Little Mermaid in Copenhagen, however, this Thai Mermaid is not a character from the book by Hans Christian Andersen. The Golden Mermaid is a character from Phra Aphai Mani, a popular book in Thai literature. In this folk tale, a mermaid sat and combed her hair on a beautiful beach on a starry night. A young fisherman met and frightened her, and she fled into the sea. The fisherman waited for her, but she never returned. There is often a long line of people waiting to have their picture taken with her.

On the street are shops and most of us bought coconut ice cream, some adorned with chocolate and sparkles and condensed milk.

A BRIDGE SO LONG

We got to Ko Yo and Nam Kieng

Din Restaurant via Tinsulanond Bridge, the longest concrete bridge in Thailand. Opened in

September 1986 it spans Songkhla Lake and is part of Highway 408. The 2.6km long bridge is also part of Highway 4146, which links Highway 407 (Hat Yai - Songkhla) and Highway No. 4083 (Songkhla - Ranot).

On the way we passed Wat Laem Port on Ko Yo Island, not far from the bridge. Malee, who had re-joined us, told us of the Wat. Short of time we weren’t able to stop at the 200-year-old temple where there is a new golden reclining Buddha and an old reclining Buddha that was under renovations.

Nam Kieng Din Restaurant is situated on a small rise overlooking the highway, the bridge and the lake. The lunch was excellent and a great way to wrap up our time in southern Thailand.